Iran Travel Notes (4): Mashhad, Pilgrimage to the Holy Tomb

The magnificent Persian Monument in Tehran, the amazing Imam Square and Thirty-three Arch Bridge in Isfahan, the beautiful Pink Mosque in Shiraz, or Persepolis, which has been sleeping for thousands of years...

The creative artistic talent of the Persians has left extremely bright artistic achievements and heritage for Iran today, and has also become a popular place for tourists to check in.

However, in Yazd, we didn’t need to think too much and decided to give up the internet-famous mosques in Persepolis and Shiraz (ah, how many girls have left beautiful figures there.) and bought the one in Marsh. Hader’s plane ticket. To the holiest city in Iran. Go to Khorasan, where the sun rises.

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Depart from Yazd’s small airport. I found that the Boeing plane I was riding on was so old that even the armrests were broken.

It is said that this is because due to US sanctions, Iranian aircraft parts are not available, so several old aircraft are combined into a new aircraft.

I trembled amidst people's prayers. I don’t know which guide has written that several Iranian planes will fall down every year. This horrifying news is always echoing in my mind at this moment.

After spending an excruciating hour in the dark, I finally saw the light - the city light of Mashhad. Finally breathed a sigh of relief.

At nine o'clock in the evening, we landed in Khorasan.

Unable to conceal my excitement, Khorasan, for a history lover, this place name is full of charm. It is the place where Muhammad said the sun rose, and it is also the most important section of the Silk Road. Alexander's army, Genghis Khan's iron hooves, Timur's torrent, and so many heroes have all left their history here. The ancient Greeks, ancient Romans, Arabs, Turks, Mongols, Persians, and even the Chinese and Russians, the changing king's flags on the city walls, and the rise and fall of the city have all been deeply imprinted on this land.

The airport in Mashhad is also called Shahid Hashemi Ahmadinejad International Airport. The airport is quite large and luxuriously built. Among the people waiting to leave customs, our few oriental faces made everyone around us very curious.

Also, Mashhad is not an ordinary tourist city, but a religious holy city belonging to Shia Muslims.

In the 9th century, before Mamun of the Abbasid dynasty took office as caliph, in order to win the support of Shia Muslims, he asked Ali Reza, the eighth generation Imam of the sect, to move from Medina to Tus and declared him as his successor. It is said that he poisoned Ali Reza to death because of his popularity among Shias and was buried in a small village about 20 kilometers away from Tus. The village became famous as "Mashhad Reza" (meaning the place where Reza was martyred). Later, a cemetery area was established at the site, and Shiite believers considered it a great honor to be buried here after death. Begin your pilgrimage to Reza's Mausoleum. Monarchs of all dynasties paid close attention to the development of the place and the renovation of the tomb, and there was an endless stream of visitors.

When the famous Moroccan traveler Ibn Battuta came here in 1333, Mashhad had become the agricultural and sideline products trade center in northern Iran and the transportation thoroughfare to Central Asia. It was also the gateway to Iran for the Silk Road. . He vividly wrote in his travel notes: "It was a big city with a large number of fruit trees, rivers and mills. The nobles' tombs were topped with elegant Gurhad Mosques, and the city walls were decorated with colorful tiles." of".

As the second largest Islamic holiest city in the world, Mashhad attracts more than 20 million tourists and pilgrims every year. Today, Mashhad has a population of more than 3 million, making it the second largest city in Iran and the largest city in Khorasan.

After leaving the airport, the lights were bright. It was indeed the second largest city in Iran. Taxis were also very well behaved. They all lined up to get on the bus and had to go to the exit to collect their tickets.

Driving into the city of Mashhad, the street scene was no different from other big cities. Across the block, however, a large complex of glowing buildings caught our attention.

The driver said that it was the Holy Tomb (Haram).

There are no other attractions in Mashhad city, and the Holy Tomb Complex is our only destination.

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Although we are a group of non-religious Chinese, we came to a religious country without understanding its religion and culture, and were only satisfied with posing under those fancy buildings to take a picture. I think our visit was in vain.

Before setting off, I did some homework and read through a thick history of Islam and several books on the history of the Middle East and Iran written by different authors. It can be considered that I have some superficial understanding of Islam and Persian history.

(Light green is Sunni, dark green is Shia)

In fact, Islam has two main sects, namely Sunni and Shia. There are many branches under these two sects, the most important of which is Wahhabi in Saudi Arabia (note : Al Qaeda, the Taliban and the Islamic State all belong to this sect) and the Twelve Imams sect (Twelver) in Iran.

In the Muslim world, Sunnis make up the absolute majority, and the leader is Saudi Arabia. Shias are a minority, but they are the majority in countries such as Iran, Azerbaijan, Iraq, and Bahrain, and the leader is Iran. The simplest way to distinguish the two is that in addition to worshiping Allah, Shias also worship Imams (holy men). Sunnis, especially Wahhabis, strictly prohibit the worship of any idols, including the Imam and the Holy Sepulchre. Saudi Arabia, which worships the Wahhabi sect, is the most strict about this. Even when Abdullah passed away abroad, a day of mourning was prohibited. On the contrary, other peripheral countries could mourn.

No matter which sect of Muslims you are, the holiest site in Islam is undoubtedly the Haram in Mecca, and all mosques around the world must be built facing the Haram in Mecca. The pilgrimage to Mecca is even listed as one of the "Five Pillars" of Muslims. Any Muslim who is able should make a pilgrimage to Mecca. Therefore, in a country like Saudi Arabia that does not welcome foreigners, tens of millions of Muslims go on pilgrimage every year.

For Shia believers, pilgrimage to the Imam's tomb is also a great merit. The eighth Imam, Ali Reza, is the only imam buried in Iran. The rest of the imams are buried in Medina or Iraq. Since Saudi Arabia does not worship the Imam and Iraq is politically unstable, the Imam's mausoleum lacks protection, so Mashhad has become the most important pilgrimage site for Shias. Unlike Mecca, which prohibits non-Muslims from entering, foreign non-believers are also welcome to visit the Imam Mausoleum in Mashhad.

Coming to Mashhad, the religious atmosphere is indeed much stronger. Slogans and flags filled the streets.

I no longer see the fashionable and pretty Persian women in Isfahan. The women here are much more conservative in their clothing, all wearing black clothes and black robes.

When it is time for worship, people will stop and pray, even drivers.

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The Imam's shrine is located in the center of the city. The whole city was born of it and built around it.

There are four entrances to the Holy Tomb, and pilgrims usually take the southwest entrance. Men enter and leave through these gates, while women enter through the building on the left. They are inspected and their bags are stored. They must also change into a kadur (which can be a white or light floral robe, which is a large sleeveless cloak, while the abaya system Plain black robe with sleeves).

There are special inspectors at the entrance. Girls are not allowed to enter with make-up, and they must make a pilgrimage without makeup.

While I was gloating over my misfortune, I realized that I was not allowed to bring my camera, so I had to deposit my bag at the entrance.

As soon as we entered the Imam's shrine, we were shocked by the spectacular sight in front of us.

In front of you is almost the largest and most gorgeously decorated mosque complex in the world.

With its courtyards of huge fountains, beautiful arcades, and clustered domes, this marvelous city within a city is one of the wonders of the Islamic world.

At the entrance of the holy tomb is a huge square, which is said to be able to accommodate 200,000 people worshiping at the same time.

The entire floor was paved with finely carved marble and pieces of hand-woven precious Persian carpets. Hundreds of Muslims knelt on the ground and prayed devoutly.

The building is covered with glittering gold leaf and crystal, as well as exquisite calligraphy and mosaic art. Everywhere you look, you can see the magnificence.

I particularly like this kind of arch, as if you can walk through it.

After passing through countless doors, we finally arrived at the center of the mausoleum, where Imam Reza's coffin was stored.

I had read online that non-Muslims were not allowed to enter here, but no one stopped me, so I just slipped in.

Staff holding chicken feather blankets directed people to take off their shoes at the entrance . Men and women are separated, women must wear burqas, and children can follow their mothers. After entering, I was once again shocked by the gorgeous scene in front of me.

Except for the ground, the entire house is filled with glittering mirrors, and there is a huge chandelier in the center of the roof, which reflects the splendor of everything.

Although I didn’t know if taking photos was allowed, I still took a few photos. Unfortunately, the photos pale in comparison to what I saw with my own eyes. I just regret that my phone couldn’t capture such a scene.

People were flocking to one spot in the house. I guessed that this was the place where the shrine of the eighth Imam Reza was placed. There were cries in the house, tears stained people's faces, and the noisy air was filled with heavy grief.

There are more and more people, and it feels like they are about to be squeezed into meat pies. People's weeping prayers surround the surroundings, and everyone has a sad expression on their face. Although Imam Reza has been dead for more than 1,000 years, at this moment, it seems like he died just yesterday.

The crowd in front of the golden railing tried their best to get close to the Imam's spiritual center. Some people even climbed up along the railing. People below kept kissing the railing and could hear the cry of the woman opposite (because men and women were separated, so the coffin was The other side is where women worship the Imam)

Men, women, old and children crowded towards the Holy Tomb. They cried and kissed the Holy Tomb. I was shocked! Why do they cry? Whether they died for the persecuted imams or for themselves, I don’t know, and I have no way of knowing, but I was moved by their sincerity and purity, and I felt their passion for faith.

This scene moved me, a pagan, to tears.

How can one talk about life if he has never cried for his faith?

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Continue walking alone inside the Holy Tomb.

Regarding the beauty of this building, no matter how many words of praise are piled up here, it is no exaggeration to describe it, but this is not the place that impresses me the most. What struck me was the atmosphere of life here.

In my understanding, a mosque is bathed in a sacred religious atmosphere and should be solemn and melancholy. But here, it is for seeking knowledge, like a study room, where people hold the Quran and recite it silently or softly; it is social, like a cafe, where people sit around and chat; it is even joking, like A lawn under the spring sun, where children can chase and play. Sitting and doing nothing feels peaceful inside.

I saw many fathers bringing their children to the Holy Tomb. Perhaps the children received the influence and education of Islam from their parents at a very young age. The religion grew up with them, and they had a thought and a spirit in their lives. , which is something we don’t have;

Seeing a family sitting around chatting, it seems that going to the mosque to pray has become a part of their family life, while we sat around and could only play with our phones.

I also saw couples (lovers?) coming to the mosque together, sitting on the carpet and chatting together (they had to be chased away by the staff), as intimate as if they were newly married. It is said that a pilgrimage to Mashhad will make relationships more harmonious and marriages happier.

Because we couldn't finish it all in one visit, we walked into the Holy Tomb many times in two days, just to witness its different beauty at each time.

The evening prayer time is its most beautiful moment, when pilgrims enter the shrine in an orderly manner from all directions.

The lights were bright, the blue and gold light tower lit up, and the entire holy tomb was illuminated like a fairy tale world.

My companion said that he has been to many mosques in Iran in the past few days and almost feels aesthetic fatigue. However, at this moment, when I came to the Holy Tomb, I could only feel more and more surprised and moved.

The beauty of Persian architecture, the beauty of Islamic culture, and the beauty of pure faith also reach a climax here.

My understanding and feelings about the mosque are also different. At first, I only felt the temple's grandeur and exquisite decoration. Now I begin to understand its inner meaning.