Outdoor Travel Notes | Hiking in Medog (Part 1)

write in front

The wind, it's talking to me

Don't forget all this

I want to find that way

You led me that way

Some are sweet and some are bitter, some are mud and some are foggy

I said I like traveling because of you

sometimes it rains

I got my face wet

So the scenery turns into longing

How long does it take for a pair of feet to travel?

Only then can we become longing

Invisible memories are hidden in the heart

Maybe, maybe we won’t see each other again

——Yi Jiayang's "Invisible Memorial"

October 5th, Hanmi, Zeng Glasses Inn.

In the early morning, the sky began to light up slightly. The rain was pouring down, and the sound of rain pounding on the roof drowned out the roar of the mountain stream behind the house. The innkeeper Zeng looked at the sky through his glasses and said to himself: "This is a broken sky." The rain in Medog has been falling continuously for several months and there seems to be no sign of stopping.

The night before, Zeng Jingzi drank a little wine, and the boss, who usually didn't like to talk to customers, started chatting with us. From time to time, he picked up his mobile phone and showed us the newly recorded videos of landslides and dangerous road sections. He repeatedly warned that this road would be very difficult and dangerous. He took the trouble to teach us various ways to prevent leech from getting into our clothes. He just hated that the donkeys were too stupid to master his secrets and essentials.

I listened carefully to Zeng's glasses blowing water

Zeng Jingqing is a national-level old donkey who has been hosting travel companions at the Hanmikai Inn for 20 years. He is very familiar with this route. Now he only works as a guide for scientific expedition teams with the prefix "国", and ordinary travel friends can't even hire him, which shows how awesome he is. Because of his deep love for outdoor activities and his deep affection for Medog, he stayed alone in this isolated place for so long.

Zeng Spectacle said that the journey was difficult and dangerous, but for us, it was twice as difficult and dangerous.

The rain was still falling, and I sat on a wooden bench, waiting for Zeng Glasses to bring breakfast. A large 70-liter backpack packed with temporarily unused luggage was transported to Medog County. The rest of the things were packed into a small 40-liter backpack. After breakfast, we will set off to start the third and most difficult and exhausting journey of the trip.

Two days ago, we crossed the Duoxiong La Pass at an altitude of 4,237 meters, walked from Pai Town in Milin County to Lage in Medog, and then passed through the virgin forest to Khanmi. On this day, we will face the most difficult 30-kilometer section of the trip. The reason why it is difficult is that you have to walk through the locust forest, which is famous far and wide, and makes people change their colors and be frightened!

I suddenly thought, why did I come to Medog? How did I get here? Medog, is it really that important to me? Is it worth overcoming physical limits and even risking your life to get here?

A medical accident caused by a minor surgery in July last year made me miserable. After experiencing unbearable pain, I finally saved my life. After that, I really started working out. I have always loved outdoor activities, but the previous hikes made me exhausted every time, and I thought I could never become a real donkey or achieve positive results.

Sister Zeng, who loves the outdoors, is my old friend for more than 20 years. When she was young, she was already very outstanding among the crowd. After going through the ups and downs of life, she is still beautiful, charming and intellectual. During my relationship with her, the most profound impression on her was always during the quarrels on the phone. This quarrel has lasted for more than 20 years, and even now when we meet, we still tease each other. If we are polite, it doesn't look like us.

At the Mila Mountain Pass, Sister Zeng helped me fasten the hat on my jacket to prevent wind.

Sister Zeng, Sachiko, KK and I were at the Mira Mountain Pass

A few years ago, my sister Zeng asked me to join her and join an outdoor team to walk the oxen line. That activity left me exhausted and I even fell down due to hypoglycemia. I vowed never to participate in any outdoor activities again. But not long after I was discharged from the hospital last year, I couldn't resist her repeated temptations, so I went to Huolu Mountain for training and training again and again, and we went climbing a few times together. From then on, I was led into a pit by her, and I could no longer climb. Come out, but don't want to climb out. This woman, after all, ruined the vow I made.

Sister Zeng on the banks of the Niyang River

On New Year's Day this year, I climbed up the Longdou Peak, the most dangerous peak in Shaoguan, known as K2 in Guangdong, which was considered a kindergarten graduation. I walked through Jiangxi Wugong Mountain in May and graduated from primary school. In August, in order to test my physical strength, I walked the South Taihang Mountains. Team leader LK, who often takes me hiking with me, and my teammates jointly issued me a junior high school diploma. As for the trip to Medog, I regard it as a high school graduation exam.

Obtaining a high school diploma is not the reason why I came to Medog.

Why did he come to Medog? The old man in his sixties, who was sitting on the bench in a daze, still didn't know the answer. who I am? Where do I come from? Where am I going? It seems to be trapped in the ultimate philosophical myth. All I know is, I want to be here, I have to be here.

Medog means flower in Tibetan, and she also has a slightly fragrant name called Mei Duo. In comparison, I prefer the name Mei Duo. Of course, the name Medog makes people feel more mysterious. It can be said that Tibet is the secret land of China, and Medog is the secret land of Tibet. She is the last county in China with access to roads. Ten years ago, Medog's only way to communicate with foreign countries was a trail over the mountains. For external communication, there are only one satellite phone and one landline phone.

Many people know Medog from a book "Lotus" written by Annie Baby. I haven’t read this book, and I don’t plan to read it before I finish my trip to Medog. Some authors, just because I don’t like their names, will instinctively reject their books without even bothering to look through the table of contents. For example, Zhang Ailing, Zhou Guoping, Zhang Jiajia, etc., and Baby Annie is also one of them. I don’t know whether their books are good or not. Just like some people who have seen meow from far away and don’t want to see them again. It’s purely personal likes and dislikes. I also know that because of this inexplicable feeling, I will miss some good things. , and I don’t plan to change, just like I don’t plan to change my dislike of sweets.

I downloaded several books about Medog from WeChat Reading. One of them, "The Colors of Medog", I gave up after flipping through several pages. Medog is indeed a very beautiful place. During our several days of hiking, we were always shocked by its beauty. This kind of beauty is difficult to describe in words, but it does not require some strange writing techniques to make up for the paleness of the words. This self-defeating approach is the only reason why I can't continue reading this book.

A long time ago, every time I saw the words about Medog Hiking, I suddenly felt envious in my heart, but stopped at envy. I have thought countless times that that is a place I will never be able to reach in my life. It is a route and scenery exclusive to warriors. Without a strong will, superhuman courage and physical strength, there is no chance of Medog. Therefore, for a long time, Medog was an existence that had nothing to do with me, and was on the same level as Mars.

Zeng Jingzi said that in the past, only a few thousand people came to Medog every year, but this year, including us, there were only more than a hundred people. After hearing this, I immediately felt proud, a little bit tragic, a little worried about the day's journey, and more importantly, a long-lost sense of expectation.

Crossing the Duoxiong La Pass

October 3rd was the first day of our group’s hiking trip to Medog. Previously, we had spent a few days adapting to high altitude in Lhasa and Shannan, went to Yamdrok Yumcuo at an altitude of 4998 meters, and crossed the Mila Pass at an altitude of 5013 meters. By this day, everyone had basically adapted to the hypoxia of the plateau. environment of.

On this day, we will hike 16 kilometers and cross the Duoxiong La Pass, which is 4237 meters above sea level. The weather at the pass is unpredictable. If we cannot reach the pass in the morning, strong winds and severe climate changes in the afternoon will make it impossible to cross.

Duoxiong La Pass on a sunny day, the picture comes from the Internet. The weather was bad when we crossed the pass, so we didn’t take any pictures.

Get up at 5 o'clock and set off at 6:30. Including the leader LK and the guide Gesang, a group of 15 people, whom I call the Thirteen Taibo + the two King Kongs, took three vehicles and set off in the darkness towards the pine forest entrance at the foot of Duoxiong La Mountain. The sky was covered with dark clouds, occasionally revealing a few stars. The Namjagbarwa Peak in the distance was hidden in the clouds and mist, and its true appearance could not be seen.

The driver took us to Songlinkou, which is the starting point of the hike. The altitude is about 3,700 meters. We took a short rest, adjusted our equipment, and then started climbing to the pass.

When we arrived at Songlinkou, the starting point, a big word "arrive" greeted us.

In the dark we started to pack our equipment

In the drizzle, we set off

The sky was getting slightly brighter, and light rain was falling.

Before setting off, I was most worried about whether my heart and lungs could withstand the hypoxia at the plateau. Team leader LK understands my physical condition. If he says I can do it, then I can do it. But as the oldest member of the team, my worries continued all the way to Songlinkou.

Team leader LK, my first impression of him is that he is a handsome man, the kind that makes men and women stunned. During the Republic of China, there were three famous beauties: Zhou Enlai of the Communist Party, Wang Jingwei of the Kuomintang, and Chu Anping of the Democratic Party. If LK lived in the Republic of China, he would have to add a LK among the people. He is loved by everyone, and he has gathered many female fans all over the world.

Sure enough, the first 50 to 100 meters of climbing was extremely difficult for me, and I was out of breath every step of the way. During the slow climb, I deliberately adjusted my breathing, exhaling with each step, and inhaling with each step. After my breathing and heartbeat gradually stabilized, my steps also became steady. But, I was still behind the pack.

Brother Yun and Sister Liang are both strong old donkeys with rich outdoor experience. Before coming to Medog, they had just completed Yubeng, one of the top ten hiking routes. Together with the team leader LK, they walked with me at the last echelon of the team and became my strong support.

Brother Yun is climbing. His physical fitness and experience make him very steady. He is a role model for me to learn from.

Sister Liang called me an old comrade, and we walked several routes together. Before coming to Medog, we went to Liupanshan to practice together. I told Sister Liang that if I could complete Medog, I could brag about my awesomeness for at least a year. Yes, it was once one of the top ten hiking routes in China and a top hiking route. Just this title is enough to give people unlimited motivation.

Sister Liang kept asking about my condition along the way and asked me to walk slower. And Brother Yun always gave me a helping hand on the most difficult sections, when I needed to cross rapids and waterfalls.

Sister Liang has been taking care of my food and drink all the way

The rain is getting heavier and the temperature is getting lower and lower. I only wear quick-drying underwear and a jacket on my upper body, and my body is getting colder. The index finger of my right hand, which was accidentally cut off and reattached in June, is now like a popsicle due to blocked blood. I can't shake it off. I can only hold the popsicle and walk up step by step.

The new Colombian waterproof hiking boots I bought before departure still had problems. My Colombian left foot is completely soaked, my right foot is slightly better. But after a few dips in the water, both feet collapsed. I thought that after returning to Guangzhou, I would settle the score with Colombia and let them reflect on their left foot. Later, when I learned that all people, all feet, and all shoes, including German hiking boots, had the same fate as Colombia’s left foot, I eliminated my blame for Colombia. In this kind of weather and on this kind of road, no hiking shoe can climb the Duoxiong La Pass alone.

The little witch KK who was walking at the front actually turned around and walked down and came to my side. She came here specifically to take care of me!

Little Witch KK, the photo was taken at Samye Temple in Shannan

KK is a little beauty born in the 1980s, quiet, considerate, sunny and considerate. Most of the team were meeting her for the first time, but everyone fell in love with her. KK likes long-distance running and has run many marathons. This was her first time hiking. Before the trip, she knew almost nothing about the equipment needed for hiking.

She didn't have rainproof pants, and her whole body was already soaked. During the windy and rainy crossing, she took the initiative to accommodate me and slowed down. You can imagine how cold her body was. She endured the wind and rain, constantly encouraged me, took care of me, and guided me step by step. After Brother Yun, Sister Liang and LK had broken off, my breathing had also been adjusted. Just like that, before ten o'clock in the morning, we boarded the pass nearly two hours early!

KK at Mila Mountain Pass

The wind at the pass was very strong and the rain was heavy. The first echelon who arrived first hid behind a huge rock and waited for our arrival. Fangfang, who was under the boulder and surrounded by several people, shivered from the cold. She was already hypothermic. She reached out to me with her trembling hands and gave me a piece of chocolate...

Fangfang after crossing the Duoxiong La Pass, doing splits on the snow with excitement

Fangfang is also a beauty born in the 1980s. We met when we climbed Longdou Peak on New Year's Day this year, and we often met up to practice, hike and travel together. She is a seed of happiness, with childlike innocence and childlike innocence, full of interest and curiosity about everything. It is hard to imagine that she is a mother of two children and has worked in Europe for nearly ten years. Where Fangfang is, there is happiness, and the team will always be full of joy and lively atmosphere.

Fangfang in Yamdrok Yongtso

Like KK, she is the strongest in the team. There is also Fangfang's best friend Nana, who is from Nanjing and the only non-Guangzhou "outsider" in the team. I summarize them as the Three Musketeers. When we took a bus from Nyingchi to Paizhen along the Brahmaputra Grand Canyon, Fangfang and KK from the Three Musketeers actually got off the car and ran the last five kilometers with Sachiko.

How dare you run on the plateau! We, who are called unreasonable lunatics, shout that they are simply unreasonable lunatics!

Three “lunatics” running in the Brahmaputra Grand Canyon – Sachiko, KK, Fangfang

The Three Musketeers: KK, Fangfang and Nana

LK, KK, and Brother K formed another Ku Klux Klan.

After reaching the pass, Fangfang became hypothermic when he took off his jacket and prepared to put on some clothes. This made me glad that I didn’t put on clothes during the climb, otherwise I might not be able to climb up again.

Unable to stop at the pass, the group took a short rest and then went down the mountain. No matter how magnificent the scenery was, they could only take a glance at it. They couldn't even take out their mobile phones to take a photo. Leaving here quickly was the only option at this time.

The rain is getting lighter, the wind is getting lighter, the clouds are lingering in the mountains, and the waterfalls are roaring.

KK finally no longer had to take care of me, Fangfang also recovered her body temperature and strength, and they followed the guide Gesang down the mountain quickly. At this time, I followed LK and hid under a boulder sheltered from the wind, adding fleece clothes. His body began to warm up, and the popsicle in his right hand gradually regained consciousness, but Columbia's left foot was still as cold as if it were in an ice cellar. I took out the thermos cup and happily drank hot tea and ate dry food. The infinite satisfaction I felt at this moment could not be compared to sitting at home with exquisite tea sets, brewing Pu'er and eating snacks. !

The calm after the wind and rain, the warmth after the cold, the hot tea after the dry mouth, the steamed buns after the hunger, and the pride of reaching the top of the mountain, all come together, and the richness and joy are beyond words.

How many waterfalls roar in the mountains, all the way down; how many wild flowers bloom on the slopes, gorgeous and colorful; how many rocks are stacked under the feet, stretching into the distance; how many snows are deposited on the mountainside, silently. What is winding and twisting is the winding "path"; what is flourishing is the lush green moss; what is jumping and jumping is the happy traveler; the one who is leaning on the trekking pole carefully and following each step is me.

The waterfalls in Duoxiong La are so spectacular that the Lushan Waterfalls in my hometown cannot compare with them. Li Bai once wrote for Sandiequan, "The water flows down three thousand feet, and it is suspected that the Milky Way falls from the sky." Only Duoxiong La is truly worthy of this eternal masterpiece. Standing in Duoxiong La, I felt ashamed and ashamed that Lushan Waterfall had to charge an extra few dozen yuan for admission.

Lingering in the beautiful scenery and being careful about where we step, Brother Yun, Sister Liang, LK and I continued to walk at the back of the team. Gesang took KK and Sunny and walked far away without seeing anyone. From a distance, we can see Sister Zeng, Sachiko, Brother Zhao and his wife, and their son, who is also the only post-00 generation in the team, as well as the quiet Sister Hua, who appears in front of us from time to time. Fangfang and her best friend Nana also fell behind the team because of their greed for beauty along the way.

KK, who arrived at Lage, the destination of the day, borrowed a workshop on the roadside and cooked a pot of ginger tea for everyone. Our teammates, who were shivering from the cold, drank scalding ginger tea and waited for the car to pick us up and drive us to the Hanmizen Glasses Inn, which was more than ten kilometers away. Tomorrow, the car will take us back to Lage, and we will set off from here through the virgin forest to Khanmi.