Travel Notes on Iran (2): Isfahan, the other half of the world

one

If one were to choose a city to represent ancient China, most Chinese would choose Xi'an;

If you were to choose a city to represent ancient Iran, I think most Iranians would choose Isfahan.

"Isfahan" comes from the Persian "Spahan", which means "army". As the name suggests, a long time ago, this was a gathering place for the army. It is one of the oldest cities in Iran, built during the Achaemenid dynasty in the 4th and 5th centuries BC.

In the 11th and 12th centuries AD, the Seljuq Empire was upgraded to the capital of that time, and ushered in its heyday during the Safavid Empire (1501-1736).

At that time, it was an important transportation thoroughfare, with merchants and guests from all over the world gathered here. It looked like Yiwu in ancient China (the only Chinese city known to Iranians, apart from Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou, was Yiwu). At that time, there were almost no rare objects in the world that could not be found in Isfahan. It was a picture of a prosperous age with me as the center between heaven and earth.

I guess the extremely domineering slogan "Half the World in Isfahan" was coined at that time.

two

During our three days in Isfahan, we also had more time to observe the life of the locals. Although the external economy is in a slump due to sanctions, the market here is still prosperous and does not appear to be depressed. My companion said that this is called self-sufficiency.

During the conversation, people's pride in Persian culture was palpable, they were confident and cheerful, and they were friendly and tolerant towards foreigners.

The religious atmosphere here is not as strong as imagined, and peaceful and real life is the main color here.

Because it is a tourist city, Isfahan is also very open. We met too many people who struck up conversations, and some of them even spoke Chinese (many of them were selling saffron or carpets).

Walking on the streets, not all Persian women are wearing black robes, but more are pretty beauties dressed in fashionable clothes.

I think, "Esfahan nesf-e Jahan", this sentence to describe this once pearl city of the Islamic world, is still applicable after centuries of cleansing.

This colorful city is undoubtedly the “soul” of Iran. The blue dome of the King's Mosque reflects the brilliance of the sun, the Sheklovra Mosque performs a miracle of light and shadow every dusk, and the Ali Qapu Palace is extremely complex and exquisitely decorated. The majestic Imam Square is surrounded by the most magnificent and gorgeous buildings in the country and even the Islamic world from the Middle Ages to modern times. The thirty-three-hole bridge at night is the most beautiful "stage" in the country. The bridge holes are decorated with lights into stages, and countless locals perform scenes of life here.

 

three

From Kashan to Isfahan, experience Iran’s VIP bus for the first time.

The guide is right. The hardware in the car is excellent, just like the business class of an airplane. There are free snacks and drinks, and the price is extremely cheap. The three-hour drive only costs about 8 yuan when converted into RMB. It is indeed worth experiencing.

Because it was once a wealthy country (the fourth in Asia), Iran's infrastructure is pretty good and its roads are well built. Although it is located in a plateau area and is mountainous, the journey is not bumpy.

So I sat comfortably and looked at the scenery of the Zagros Mountains outside the window. I reached my destination in 3 hours.

Arrive in Isfahan, settle in the hotel, and immediately go to the famous Imam Square.

This is said to be the second largest city square in the world (the first is of course our great Tiananmen Square), built in the 17th century during the Safavid period. At that time, it was the place where the king reviewed the troops and held polo matches. Therefore, it was originally called King's Square. After the Islamic Revolution in Iran, it was renamed Imam Square.

The Persian monarchs divided the glory of God into two halves, leaving one half for Isfahan and the other half for the favor of the world. Imam Square, as well as the Judah Mosque, the Forty Pillar Palace and the Eighth Heavenly Palace, are ready to shock visitors at any time.

Surrounding the square are the attractions that cannot be missed in Isfahan:

The Ali Qapu Palace to the west of the square is the commanding height near the square. Although it is called a "palace", it should actually be called a "gatehouse". It was the platform where the king reviewed the troops and watched polo matches. It was also the main entrance of the huge palace during the Safavid period. This is also very similar to our Tiananmen Gate Tower. Although the magnificent murals and exquisitely conceived inner halls have been in disrepair for more than 400 years, it is a glorious scene that people cannot take for granted. Unfortunately, the reviewing stand above was under maintenance when we visited, and we were unable to overlook the square from above and experience the perspective of the king back then.

The Imam Mosque to the south of the square and the Sheklovra Mosque to the east are absolutely excellent expressions of Persian architectural art and magnificent imagination. Not only is the grandeur of the overall building, the exquisite decorative patterns, and the unique shapes of the beams, columns, and domes, but also the architect's precise consideration of light, shadow, and sound, the absolute symmetry and relative deharmony, making people amazed by the skills of Persian craftsmen.

The Imam Mosque was a royal mosque at that time. It was so grand that it could accommodate tens of thousands of people worshiping at the same time. The entire interior and exterior walls of the mosque are covered with blue decorative paintings, and every inch of the pattern is carefully painted by hand.

It is not easy to describe a mosque in words, especially the exquisite and beautiful brickwork and domes.

The complex and pleasing blue dome brings out the magnificence. The exquisite dome has the simplest and most perfect lines.

Wandering around the mosque, I came across a few mysterious Persian cats with graceful postures. Perhaps, their ancestors lived here hundreds of years ago. Now, the dynasty has collapsed, the king is no longer king, and cats are the real owners here.

A group of girls were whispering under the porch of the mosque. Their figures, like the mottled light and shadow, became part of the scenery.

Compared with the grandeur of the Imam Mosque, the Sheklovra Mosque is another extreme.

It used to be a place of worship for the king's family. It is small but exquisite, with gorgeous and colorful patterns on the dome and interior walls.

The entire hall was dark and quiet. Every morning and dusk, golden beams of light will penetrate through the carefully designed hollow windows high on the wall, leaving petal-like projections on the ground.

The diffusely reflected light illuminates the internal pattern, and the same color shows a gradient effect from green to yellow under different light intensities, making the whole person seem to have ascended to an unknown world, which is very magical.

It is unimaginable that any master hundreds of years ago understood space and light to such an extent that it deserves to be called the most beautiful mosque.

The cover of the first edition of "Lonely Planet Iran" was taken from inside the Shaikh Mosque.

During the day, Imam Square is a paradise for civilians and tourists. The square has a large pool, fountain and lawn. Many locals also have picnics on the lawn, where families and friends gather together to spend quality time together.

Sitting on the lawn under the warm spring sunshine, watching people coming and going, my mood is calm and relaxed.

At night, Imam Square is a fantasy of light and shadow.

As night falls, the lights turn on, and the colorful lights and shadows flow into a beautiful picture.

The Apkari Palace in the center of the square exudes its own outstanding brilliance.

We fall in love when we first meet, we will never forget when we see you again, and we will miss you forever when we don’t see you again. We stayed in Isfahan for three days and visited the square three times. We never tired of it.

 

Four

Early the next morning, we went to look for Bozog Bazar and another mosque, the Jamaat Mosque, but accidentally entered an older neighborhood in Isfahan.

It was noon, and the beautiful square and pool were reflected in sky blue under the blue sky.

Near the square, I came across an unknown mosque (later I found out it was called the Ali Mosque). The murals on the door are exquisite and the minaret stands tall. It must have a long history. Unfortunately, the door is closed and no one is allowed to enter.

After passing through the bustling Bazaar, I finally found the legendary Jumu Mosque.

Also called the "Friday Mosque" or "Jama Mosque", the mosque includes four religious buildings from different eras and has gorgeous mosaic decoration. The earliest building in the mosque was built in 771 and was restored several times until the end of the 20th century.

The four religious buildings in the mosque from different eras form the largest and most historically significant mosque complex in Iran. The Judah Mosque embodies the evolution of Islamic religious architecture over more than 800 years. It also has the characteristics of the Seljuk, Mongol and Safavid eras. This characteristic cannot be seen anywhere else in the world.

If the Imam Mosque is dazzling, then the Jumar Mosque is quiet.

The oldest building here has a history of more than 1,000 years. Walking among those simple brick pillars, you can feel the dust of history.

The sun shines through the window, bringing people back to reality.

In the center of the mosque is a huge courtyard. The midday sun is a time for contemplation.

I think, therefore I am, and I am not a Muslim. However, at this moment, I feel the long-lasting tranquility and piety.

After walking out of the mosque, we were actually in the local bazaar. For Muslims, religion and life have never been separated, but are the two poles of life, one transcendent and the other reality.

Compared with other cities in Iran, the bazaar of Isfahan has its own special characteristics. One is to preserve it completely. From the tall main entrance, to the lifelike murals, and even the fountains and flowing water inside, they all bear witness to this business legend that has lasted for thousands of years. Second, it has a vast area. In fact, the entire square is surrounded by the bazaar, and the criss-crossing alleys stretch for several kilometers with the square as the center. Walking around in it, you will spend a whole day before you know it.

Under the centuries-old dome, countless commodities from all over the world were gathered here, and countless merchants wrote their own business legends and stories of rise and fall in this former imperial center. Even if you are in it now, you will be moved by this strong atmosphere of life.

Perhaps modern daily necessities come from thousands of miles away and have the flavor of Yiwu market; but traditional handicrafts, with thousands of years of perseverance, inherit the unchanging melody amidst the tinkling sounds.

The bazaar is very long, and even the locals may get dizzy while walking there, so they divided the huge bazaar into several areas: gold and silver jewelry area, porcelain area, spices area, carpet area...all kinds of people are walking through the bazaar. In the middle of the attack, there was a bustling scene.

If you rush into the bazaar, it will be difficult to get out even if you don't buy anything.

In front of you, you can see exquisite Iranian porcelain, Persian-style miniature paintings, and various traditional handicrafts, which are so dazzling that you really want to carry them all home with a few hemp bags.

The most attractive ones are the carpet shops, where Persian handmade carpets are placed in piles and some are hung on the walls of the shops. Persian carpets are one of Iran's famous handicraft industries. They have enjoyed an international reputation since ancient times and are loved by the world for their excellent texture, simple and elegant patterns and exquisite craftsmanship.

The workmanship of these carpets is exquisite and exquisite. No wonder such a small piece sells for a very high price. The patterns on the carpet range from birds and animals, flowers, birds, insects and fish to religious totems. Watching it is also an artistic enjoyment.

The Bazaar is the heartbeat of a city. Walking in a hurry this time, I actually felt the heartbeat of Isfahan Bazaar so strong. This is a real and living ancient city that has existed for thousands of years.

In my motherland, although many ancient cities have been renovated and look antique, they are actually dead.

five

As a backpacker who is not particular about accommodation, living in Iran is actually quite enjoyable. Because, at a very cheap price, you can stay in the best local hotels.

Of course, if you want to stay in an international chain such as Sheraton or Hilton, then sorry, Iran doesn’t have one.

Iran has many traditional garden hotels with national characteristics. The famous Abbas Hotel is one of the jewels.

Friends in the tourism group said that it is the off-season for tourism in Iran and hotels do not need to be booked. However, Abbas Hotel is an exception. Because she seemed to be targeted by the Chinese (sure enough, I met two Chinese aunties in the hotel!)

Judging from my circle of friends, whenever they come to Isfahan, girls will come to this hotel to check in!

We only booked the first night, but we really could only stay the first night. The next day, there was no room! I had to drag my luggage and change homes.

The Abbasi Hotel was built by Sultan Hussein of the Persian Safavid Dynasty (extremely extravagant) as a gift to his mother. Originally a caravanserai (a caravanserai, warehousing and trading place), in 1958 the place was converted into a hotel and took on its current name.

Dragging the suitcase into the hotel lobby, I was shocked by the gorgeous and exquisite interior decoration!

The hotel is as gorgeous as a palace. From the moment you enter the door, you can see the all-wood carved spiral staircase, thick carpets, crystal lamps, and glass decorations set on the walls that shine with crystal light. The entire walkway is sparkling.

As far as the eye can see, there are all graceful and warm colors.

It is a hotel, more like an art gallery. Walking in the public areas of the hotel, you can enjoy beautiful patterns, decorations, utensils and sceneries everywhere. This is the hotel's carpet museum.

The restaurant is also extremely luxurious.

The most fascinating thing is of course the garden in the courtyard, which is the most typical Islamic garden regulation. One horizontal and one vertical main axis divides the garden into four equally divided flower gardens. The main road is entered from the lobby. It is relatively spacious and has an arch bridge in the middle. The horizontal water channel under the bridge is another axis, and there is a fountain in the channel.

It is early spring, and the trees are still withered. If it takes another two months, the garden will be full of flowers.

At night, the lights are on and the hotel is full of Persian Empire luxury.

The beauty of the hotel seems to have defeated the ruthless time. This so-called most beautiful hotel in Iran left me speechless.

Although the rooms are a bit old and the facilities are a bit outdated, overall, it is still a place worth visiting.

The next day, we moved to the Sappho Hotel diagonally opposite the hotel. Although this hotel with the same name as the Greek poetess is not as good as Abbas Hotel, it is still clean and tidy. Especially the rooms are not inferior to Abbas, and the price is half cheaper.

The most surprising thing is that the hotel's breakfast room is an open top floor, and the white decoration looks simple and elegant.

It was quite pleasant to eat breakfast and feel the warm sunshine and the gentle breeze.

 

five

What to eat in Iran? After reading countless guides, the ones everyone talks about the most are saffron rice and grilled papa (similar to barbecue).

It seems to be everyone’s consensus that Iranian food is not delicious and even difficult to swallow. Worried, we brought Lao Gan Ma, hoping to save our taste buds.

On the first day, I wandered around the bazaar in Isfahan until noon. I was very hungry and found a restaurant I couldn’t name. (Perplexing Persian)

The somewhat handsome Iranian chef is very focused and shy.

The restaurant was crowded with locals, and we couldn’t understand what the waiter said, so we imitated others and ordered two dishes whose names we didn’t even know.

The naan was dipped in the soup, eaten with mint leaves and raw onions, and my mouth was filled with a strange taste. I can only keep comforting myself, how can I experience the local culture without experiencing the local food.

I found that just like Xinjiang, Iranians also love to eat naan. Naan is served from morning to night. When you go to a restaurant to eat, the naan is served faster than cold dishes.

With naan, you can eat it in various ways. Over the past few days, I tried scrambled eggs with tomatoes in naan, minced meat in naan, soaked naan in bean soup, and even eat naan dipped in jam.

My favorite is to eat naan with mutton and bean soup.

Where did Shaanxi mutton steamed buns come from? Could it have been introduced from the Silk Road? In Iran, Persians also have their own mutton steamed buns. A small metal pot is filled with mutton and bean soup, soaked in shredded steamed bun slices, and mashed with a stick to make it delicious. You can also wrap it in naan bread and enjoy it. tasty!

Of course, the most common ones are saffron rice and various grilled papayas.

The next day, we followed TripAdvisor’s recommendation and found a traditional restaurant for dinner.

The restaurant is located deep in the bazaar, together with a row of beautiful cafes, and has an outstanding temperament.

Entering the restaurant, the decoration is gorgeous and full of Persian style. It is a novel experience to sit on the bed like a local.

As a full-fledged carnivore, the most impressive thing is the roast lamb. The Iranian grilled lamb chops are very generous. Each person uses a 70cm long iron fork to skewer large chunks of lamb chops. You can smell the alluring cumin smell from a distance. The lamb chops are grilled to a crisp on the outside and tender on the inside. When you bite into it, the crispy outer skin and tender mutton fill your mouth with the aroma of caramel.

Eat and drink enough, then sip black tea, watch Persian dances, and listen to Persian music. This Persian-like leisure and romance made heroes including Hulagu Khan, Timur the Great, and Abbas the Great fall in love. Can't stop.

What's more, we ordinary people who can't stand it?

 

To be continued…