Traveling in Guizhou (1) - Gossip

Taking advantage of the National Day holiday, I went to Guizhou for a tour. Let me write a few words about this trip.

Why Guizhou? Because only high-speed rail tickets to here can still be purchased. There were several destinations in the primary election: Xinjiang, Gansu, Qinghai, and Northeast China, but they were all abandoned because air tickets were too expensive. At that time, I thought, since people all over the country are holding back from traveling domestically during this holiday, the scenic spots must be very crowded, right? Although I had such expectations, I still couldn't help feeling irritated when I saw the noisy and noisy crowds at the scene. I secretly made up my mind: When traveling domestically, I must avoid scenic spots on holidays. It's so miserable. There are probably two reasons why crowds of people make people irritated: first, there is no order and queuing is difficult. This situation leaves you with no choice but to squeeze into the sea of ​​tourists; second, it is noisy, it is too noisy, it is really It's too noisy, with all kinds of people calling for friends, all kinds of shouting and screaming, all kinds of naughty children screaming at the top of their lungs... At this time, no matter how beautiful the scenery is, you have no intention of lingering, and you just want to escape from the noise in front of you.

And what’s the most outstanding feeling that Guizhou gave me? Moist! Guizhou really allows people like me who have lived in the north for a long time to feel the nourishment of nature. During the seven or eight days in Guizhou, except for the last day when there was a little sunshine, it rained basically every day, sometimes heavy and sometimes light. Most of the time, there was a damp smell in the air. It couldn't be said to be raining, but it was within reach. moist. It is said that the rainy weather in Guizhou has been going on for a month. A northerner like me cannot imagine what it feels like to have rain for a month, but I still enjoyed the few days I was here. Because it is so moisturizing, I save a lot of hydrating cosmetics. I no longer have to rush to apply moisturizer after bathing, and I don’t have to worry about my skin being too dry and flaky. It’s a pity that people like me who like humidity have been living in the dry north...

Guizhou is truly a place with green mountains and green waters. After seeing Guizhou, I may have to raise my standards for places that can be called green mountains and green waters. In the past, when I saw a mountain with a river, I would call it green mountains and green waters. Such casual praise is really a compliment to "green mountains and green waters". "Green Water" is disrespectful. Guizhou is the only province in the country that does not have plains. 92.5% of the area is mountains and hills. It is said that Guizhou is "Eight mountains, one water and one field", "There is no sky and three days of sunshine, and there is no land. Sanliping". I traveled all the way from Guiyang to Qiannan to Southeast Guizhou to Fanjing Mountain. Most of them were mountain roads, and I walked through the mist-shrouded mountains all the way. The mountains here are not as majestic as those in the north. Most of them are karst landforms with rolling hills that have been polished by rain. They do not give people a majestic and oppressive feeling, but they have graceful and smooth edges that have been tempered by time. They are still tall and not lacking. gentle. Water is also everywhere in your field of vision like mountains. You can hear the sound of water after taking a few steps, so that I once wondered why there was so much water and where did it come from? Where are they going in a hurry?

Moving on to the topic of Shanduo, let’s talk about Guiyang, the provincial capital city.

For one, I was surprised by how crowded and towering the city was. I live near Huaguoyuan, which is a very famous real estate. Back in 2010, Honglicheng Group won the Pengjiawan shantytown renovation project in Guiyang, opening up the fantasy road of Huaguoyuan. Since its opening in October 2010, it has ranked first in the country's real estate sales for 23 consecutive months; in 2012, Hongli City ranked among the top ten in the country's real estate sales area with only one project, Huaguoyuan, ranking with Evergrande and Vanke. After multiple phases of development, Houhua Orchard has involved the demolition of more than 20,000 households, a population of more than 100,000, and a total construction area of ​​more than 18 million square meters. Today, there are 700,000 people living in the Huaguoyuan community, with an average daily flow of more than 1 million people. A community is equivalent to a small city, double the 300,000 people in Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, where I went last year...More The strange thing is that the buildings in this Huaguoyuan community have more than 40 floors, with 10 households on each floor. The distance between buildings is as narrow as 15 meters and the width is no more than 30 meters. I was stunned when I first saw this posture. Walking among these towering toothpick buildings, I thought I was in Hong Kong, with the same humid air, the same airtight buildings, and the same green hillsides exposed in the gaps. , the same winding road. This high-density and bizarre design, the congested and chaotic traffic conditions, the housing price lower than that of the surrounding areas, the swarming of small businesses and hawkers and various hotels in the office building, all these have made Huaguoyuan have mixed reviews and various topics. Unrivaled independence. Nowadays, Huaguoyuan is a large and mature community integrating life, business, entertainment and shopping. According to locals, if you live in Huaguoyuan and work in Huaguoyuan, you may never need to leave Huaguoyuan. . The gossips and scandals surrounding this community have never stopped. It is home to the Internet-famous "Panel Building" of Huaguoyuan and the much-criticized "White House". The "story" of Huaguoyuan has always been circulated in the world. I once thought that Tiantongyuan was big enough, but now it seems that I am really a frog in the well.

As for why this community is what it is now, the reason I thought at first was: flat land is limited, so the limited land must be fully developed. But if you take a closer look at Guiyang, the city is not big. The second ring road looks like a suburb, and there is no shortage of land. Later, someone on the Internet came up with another explanation: Guizhou is a well-known poor province in the country. Its per capita GDP has been ranked last in the country for a long time. The government also has no money. The government does not have the financial resources to build infrastructure in these old urban areas. and transformation. Therefore, unlike the general method of selling land in cities, the government packaged the relocation, development and supporting construction of this area to developers, and became the hands-off shop itself. As a result, developers have to build roads, build bridges, and improve various surrounding facilities. In order to save costs, they have built real estate here with a density comparable to that of Hong Kong. Controversy has started since the construction of this building started, with some applauding and some despising it. There is even a special post on Zhihu "How to view the Huaguoyuan Community in Guiyang". It is located in the center of Guiyang. The supporting facilities are quite complete although not perfect. The price is relatively low. Coupled with the talent gathering effect of Guiyang as the provincial capital, I personally think there is no reason to be bearish. I met a local from Guiyang who bought a house for 3,000 yuan per square meter at that time. Now it is worth 10,000 yuan per square meter. I think that real estate in China may be the largest wealth creation movement in the world. If the permanent population of Guiyang is calculated as 5 million, Huaguoyuan has 700,000 people living there, so about 14% of the people live in such a population density. Some of the buildings I saw along the way are also very high, at least 20 floors up. , I even doubt whether this is the city with the densest high-rise buildings I have ever seen.

Secondly, the city’s fireworks and bustling atmosphere make me feel close to it. How to say it? Everything is not so orderly, everything seems a bit chaotic, but everything operates in a certain order. The dazzling array of small shops along the street is dazzling, and the colorful lights dot the sky in this bustling city. The various roadside stalls make people feel a long-lost friendliness, and eating, drinking and having fun are just around the corner. This kind of hustle and bustle is always hot, no matter the weather or time, from morning to night. By the way, we finished our sour soup hot pot at around nine o'clock that night, and the hot pot restaurant was still bustling with activity. At this time in Beijing, most restaurants were closed, so it was incomparable with this leisurely atmosphere. "Guiyang people can eat, drink and have fun 24 hours a day, and there are still traffic jams at two or three in the morning. When the late night snacks are over, breakfast shops are also open. There are so many restaurants and snack shops and mobile vendors on the streets of Guiyang that it is unprecedented in Chinese cities. Probably the best place to feel the atmosphere of Guiyang is Changwang Noodle House in the early morning. People take a bowl of spicy noodle soup sprinkled with red oil and have a good smell from the window, and they help themselves to a plate specially made by each restaurant. Hot and sour kimchi, people moved around to sit down next to each other, and after eating, they went their separate ways. "People squeezed out a seat to eat Changwang noodles in the small shop, just like the people of Guiyang in this beautiful place. A little bit of human living space has been squeezed out from the gaps. As long as the mountains and rivers exist, the skeleton of Guiyang will remain, and the unrestrained and optimistic spirit of Guiyang people gives these mountains and rivers an endless soul.

When I see Guiyang, I always think of Chongqing, a city famous for its mountain city. Compared with Chongqing, a well-known Internet celebrity city, here there are undulating urban roads, high-rise buildings built next to the mountains, delicacies with local characteristics, and bright night views unique to mountain cities, but it lacks The rules and uniformity common to these big cities are not the tourists flocking there because of various Internet celebrities posing for photos. It is more about the contentment of the locals enjoying themselves in their own one-third of an acre of land. Dong Zhong, a local painter in Guiyang, once said: "This is my city, Guiyang. It is rainy, cool in summer, and wet in winter. People living here are geniuses at eating chili peppers, good at drinking, and dare to eat anything. This city It’s not big, it’s noisy, and all kinds of people often gather together without any name, and the reason is of course to drink and play "I think this sentence really expresses the essence of Guiyang.

Speaking of food, let’s talk about price. I didn’t go to many places, I just visited the convenience store, fruit shop, hot pot restaurant, soup noodle shop downstairs, and I didn’t even go to a larger supermarket. A bowl of beef noodles and rice rolls on the street costs about 11 or 2 yuan. A bowl of the famous Huaxi Wangji beef noodles costs 15 yuan. A bowl of soy milk costs 2 yuan, a fried dough stick costs 2 yuan, and a tea egg costs 2 yuan. I ate it in the city center. A meal of beef hotpot in sour soup costs 80 yuan (the coupon from Dianping.com is 80 yuan, which is barely enough for two people, but not too full). A meal of spicy hotpot near the remote university town in Huaxi District costs 70 yuan for two people (this meal costs 80 yuan for two people). Very satisfying, eat until full), two pieces of mineral water, yogurt, the price is about the same as in Beijing. The prices of fruits are a bit difficult to understand. There are no local specialty fruits that allow you to fully enjoy the local advantages. Locally produced grapefruits cost four yuan per catty, which is not as cheap as the Fujian grapefruits imported from Beijing. Other oranges, apples, grapes, bananas, and dragons are also available. The price is basically the same as in Beijing, or even more expensive. It seems that eating noodles is the most cost-effective option in Guiyang. Another weird thing is that the lunches and snacks sold in scenic spots in Guizhou are not very expensive. The Spicy Chicken Leg Burger in Huangguoshu Waterfall Scenic Spot only costs more than 20 yuan, which is considered a reasonable price. I'm still curious about how high the average consumption level of Guiyang people is? It's not low after all. I don't know if I'm shopping in the wrong place.

Who would have thought that I had only spent two days in Guiyang briefly, wandering around for a few minutes during breakfast and dinner. I didn’t even understand the east, west, north, and south of the city, yet I could write so much eloquently. Maybe it’s because I haven’t done much shopping, but I’m really looking forward to the next time.

Then let me briefly talk about this trip: Day 1: Huangguoshu Waterfall (a bit boring); Day 2: Xiaoqikong (nice scenery, but unfortunately I have a problem with my schedule); Day 3: Jiabang Rice Terraces (highlight moment) ; The fourth day: Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village (darkest moment); The fifth day: Zhenyuan Ancient Town (fairly satisfactory); The sixth day: Fanjing Mountain (hard to describe); The seventh day: Qingyan Ancient Town (in line with expectations)

For details, please look forward to the next article