A Ruo's Travels | Reading Wencheng: Appreciating the old Nanyang dream of Wenchang people
A river with clear water, green trees on both sides, and clean wind and smoke. The most beautiful scenery in Wencheng is nestled along the Wenchang River. The ancient Wenchang City, small bridges and flowing water, old streets and old trees, the simplicity and elegance of the thousand-year-old Confucius Temple, the centuries-old style of the Nanyang arcade, and the filial piety inheritance of the overseas Chinese building Guo Mu Pavilion all tell the story of the gorgeous and diverse cultural landscape.
Wenchang Park is one of the earliest county-level parks in Hainan. It was first built in 1917 and has been expanded to its current size after many expansions. There are two ponds next to the park gate, with coconut trees dancing in the shadows and clear water rippling, where you can go boating. The banyan trees in the garden are luxuriant, and Qiong Opera fans often sing here, leaving lingering sounds. The two ponds are shining, and the three pavilions are shining. There are three old pavilions from the Republic of China. In addition to the Chen Daocang Memorial Pavilion and the Mentor Pavilion, the most eye-catching one is the "Guo Mu Li Tai Madam Mrs. Wang Memorial Pavilion" built in 1936. .
Guo Mu Pavilion has a glazed tile tower-like structure with three floors and eight corners, with raised ridges and a pavilion above it. The pavilion is inlaid with calligraphy inscriptions by famous people, including two plaques, "Yide Kan Type" and "Xing Shi Zhong Wei", bearing the square seal of the National Government. There are also inscriptions, poems, and couplets by nearly thirty political figures of the Republic of China, including Li Zongren, Lin Sen, Yu Youren, Feng Yuxiang, Zhang Xueliang, Bai Chongxi, Sun Ke, Chen Lifu, Chen Guofu, Kong Xiangxi, Shao Lizi, etc., with a total of ink inscriptions 32 pieces in total.
Behind these inscriptions, there is a figure from Wenchang - Wenchang's patriotic overseas Chinese wealthy Guo Juchuan and Guo Jingchuan. Two brothers who made a fortune in Nanyang built it to commemorate the nurturing grace of their grandmother and aunt. The reason why so many celebrities were invited to inscribe is because the two brothers made significant contributions to the democratic revolution and social welfare undertakings. Guo Mu Pavilion is one of the most complete memorial pavilions in my country that retains the ink of historical celebrities. It is also a precious overseas Chinese architectural relic in Hainan.
After leaving Wenchang Park, we stood at the head of the People's Bridge and gazed at it. This is an excellent place to watch the "Y" shaped Wenchang River. In the old days, this was the Yanbu Wharf. The wooden sailing boats transporting goods go up the Wenchang River from Qinglan Port. The banks are lined with mangroves and shaded by coconut groves. The boats are flying with geese and the sound of oars and sails are shadowed. The busy waterway brings the prosperity of the past to Wencheng, a thousand-year-old city. .
Wenchang River, formerly known as Nanqiao Water, has three main tributaries with a total length of 49 kilometers. Going down the Wenchang River is the section of the river where dragon boat racing takes place. Go up and follow Dongfeng Road past the Taiping Bridge to Heping Road. The coconut trees on both sides are tall and tall, the redbud flowers are blooming along the river, and the arch bridge has beautiful reflections.
The street shops next to the Bai Rui Bridge on the Wenchang River are full of shouts. Mutton with fungus, large bowl of pig's feet and spiced beef brisket are the classic dishes here. After passing Bai Rui Bridge, you will reach Wennan Road. More than twenty years ago, Wennan Road was the fashion center of Wenchang and was extremely busy. When people get tired of shopping, they sneak into the tea shop across the street. This is another happy world.
Afternoon tea culture is a product influenced by Nanyang culture. In the afternoon, the old tea shop on Yanjiang Road is bustling with people. Ordering a cup of frozen milk tea or frozen lemonade, served with steaming barley cakes, and a bowl of ginger-flavored Dongge cakes is the most satisfying.
The accent of Wenchang is sweet and mellow. Walking in the streets and chatting with grandpas and grandmas about daily life, their voices were soothing, unhurried, equally refined, gentle and elegant. The earnest teachings of their elders since childhood have made their words and deeds remain humble despite the vicissitudes of time.
Most of the land around the sea in Wenchang is dominated by sandy soil, which is barren and has little harvest. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, a large number of farmers and small craftsmen in Wenchang left their hometowns to make a living in order to find a chance to survive. "Going to Nanyang" became a trend. In 1922, Wencheng demolished the city walls and built embankments to build new streets. Most of the arcades built by overseas Chinese in Wencheng were concentrated in the Wennan Road area, which was called Convenience Street or Xiashi. Businesses are on the first floor of the arcade, and homes are on the second floor. There are shops in the front and homes in the back. They are row upon row, making it a spectacular sight.
The hundreds of meters long Wennan Old Street is filled with rich Nanyang style. Each arcade has a glorious youth and embodies the hard work of Nanyang overseas Chinese who returned to their hometowns in glory. At the same time, they also hide various bitter stories. It can be called half of the history of overseas Chinese in Wenchang. In the 1980s, movies such as "Taiwanese Roots", "Children from Abroad", and "Strangers from the World" were filmed in Wennan Old Street.
Triangle Street, adjacent to Wennan Old Street, was once the busiest market in Wencheng. At the end of the street is the ancient tiger tree on Laoshu East Street that only a few people can hug. People who grew up in the stone alleys of the small town , they all affectionately call it Big Tree, just like calling their children’s nicknames, casual and full of love. Today, Sanjiao Street is best known for its Wenchang Chicken.
Walking on this old street, what you can see is a mottled mark. The exquisitely carved and graceful components of the arcades have long lost their luster and become blurry and dim. Under the wind and sun, the floor-to-ceiling blinds are old and broken, and the scattered fans are like candles in the wind. Green grass emerges from the cracks in the wall, embellishing the miserable wind and rain here.
The old arcade street along the Wenchang River is a microcosm of Wenchang's history and folk culture. Walking there is casual and leisurely. Here you can admire the old arcade that has been washed away, and imagine the bustling, bustling and bustling scene it once was.
The arcade stands quietly, carrying the light, shadow and distance of history, and also witnessing the rise, fall, honor and disgrace of history. An arcade is a confider, standing silently telling the endless nostalgia of generations of overseas Chinese, becoming a never-ending scenery in the eyes of the world.
