Shanghai丨Zhujiajiao
Travel Notes: Zhujiajiao, Shanghai
I don’t often write travel notes. It’s not that I don’t want to, but it’s really because of my laziness. Whenever I meet interesting people and things during the trip, I always want to write something. But because of this laziness, plus The forgetting curve causes trouble and often ends without a cure. Today, since this trip to the ancient town has lived up to the horoscope of "leave with pleasure and return with pleasure", I am determined to write something, so I will hurry up and write it down before my fun is over.
I met Shao in the evening of the 11th. After meeting, we finalized the itinerary for Zhujiajiao Ancient Town the next day, and immediately made an online reservation (but no one actually checked it when we arrived, it is an open scenic spot).
In line with the concept of having a comfortable time when going out, I slept until I woke up naturally on the morning of the 12th. After taking three subway lines, I exited the Zhujiajiao Station on Line 17. After exiting the station, I navigated The software showed that we could reach the center of the ancient town by walking about 1.7 kilometers, but because we set off late, it was already around 11 a.m., and the temperature was getting higher. In order to save energy for the tour, we decided to take a cruise ship directly into the scenic spot. Later, it was proved that our decision was correct and we left no regrets.
Shanghai丨Zhujiajiao
You can buy the cruise ticket just in front of the left side of the station. After buying the ticket, you stand on the pontoon a few steps away and wait for the boat. There will be a boat in a few minutes. It is not sure what kind of boat it is. It may be 4 or 5 seats. It may be a hand-cranked awning boat, or it may be an electric boat that can seat about 20 people. It all depends on fate. You can board whatever boat you are waiting for. Of course, if you have a firm preference, are not in a hurry, and are willing to wait for the boat type you like, the master chef who greets you at the bridge and arranges for tourists to board the boat will probably not stop you.
The boat we were waiting for was an electric boat. Although we wanted to have a slow and leisurely hand-cranked boat, the sun made us impatient, so we didn’t want to wait any longer and got on the boat directly. We swayed forward as the boat, and the shore was so green, slowly approaching and then slowly receding. We didn't see the ancient town, but there was already a sense of the boat sailing on the water and people traveling in the painting.
Shanghai丨Zhujiajiao
The cruise ship pushed the water all the way, turned a shallow bend, and passed two bridge openings. White walls and black tiles along both sides of the river, with red lights hanging high, a typical scene of the Jiangnan water town is in front of you. We were ferried to Fangshengqiao Pier and landed at Fangshengqiao, the central attraction of the ancient town. It was during the Dragon Boat Festival, so there were not many people, but after walking a short distance ashore, I didn’t feel crowded.
Fangsheng Bridge is indeed the center point of the scenic spot. Standing on the bridge and looking to both sides, you can have a panoramic view of the beautiful scenery of the water town. It is a good place to check in. After comparing the flow of people at both ends of Fangsheng Bridge, we made a basic tour route of first visiting Xijing Street opposite the pier, and then returning to the side of the pier to visit North Street.
Shanghai丨Zhujiajiao
Considering that we don’t have enough time, we decided to abandon all paid attractions during this trip to the ancient town and mainly visit the main streets. After walking around, I found that although the streets are almost full of shops, the clerks in each store don't make any loud noises other than saying "What do you want" and "Come in and take a look" when you approach and look at the products? Shouting and hawking, so the whole street is not full of annoying hawking sounds like some ancient towns. It is lively but not noisy. On the contrary, people are willing to slow down and walk around slowly, and discover something that makes them like it when they stop inadvertently. Small Things. Like most ancient towns, the shops on the street sell nothing more than various handicrafts, specialty snacks, rice wine, Hanfu, etc., but after a closer look, there are indeed some small things that I have never seen elsewhere, and through comparison, I found that, The prices of various items sold in this ancient town are relatively affordable.
Grandma’s meat rice dumplings are said to be the most famous snack in Zhujiajiao. They have been reported by the media many times. Almost every rice dumpling shop selling rice dumplings on the street has a signboard of so-and-so Grandma’s meat rice dumplings, and there is almost a grandmother in the shop. There are several The stores all posted pictures from media reports, and I really couldn’t tell which one was the so-called authentic, so I picked one based on my eyesight and bought an egg yolk pork belly rice dumpling for 16 yuan. The overall taste was good, and the pork belly was crispier than the ones made at home. It's rotten and oily, but there's no big difference. For people who have lived abroad for a long time, it's still worth a try. In addition to grandma's meat rice dumplings, there are also many shops selling bullfrog. As a bullfrog lover, you must try it. Braised bullfrog in sauce. The bullfrog is braised in advance and is cool in the mouth. It is comfortable to eat in summer. The braised flavor is full of flavor. In addition, the bullfrog is already tender, so there is no possibility that it will not taste good. It costs 50 yuan per catty, so I ordered half a catty. , the two of them had a great time eating. Hanfu shops are also a scene in this town, with various styles and exquisite production, and the prices are much cuter than those in Xi'an Huimin Street and other places. It's a pity that when I walked through the two streets, there were more than a dozen Hanfu shops, but none of them sold them. For men’s Hanfu, I hope to find a store that sells men’s Hanfu in the future.
Shanghai丨Zhujiajiao
What made me want to write this travelogue was a teahouse with the sign "Jiangnan's No. 1 Teahouse".
When we finished visiting Xijing Street and entered North Street through Fangsheng Bridge, it was already noon. We felt a little tired after walking for nearly an hour, so we decided to find a shop near the river to sit and have a drink. Just when I thought about this, I looked up and saw a plaque that read "The No. 1 Tea House and Book Garden in Jiangnan". What a coincidence! So we made up our mind that if there was room in this restaurant near the river, we would stay here for a while.
So the two of us slowly stepped in, thinking about asking someone in the store, but as soon as we stepped in, we were pleasantly surprised. Inside the wooden building, the floor paved with stone slabs is actually covered with pine needles. If you immerse yourself in it, you will really have the wonderful experience of stepping on nature and filling the house with the scent of pine!
Just as I was praising the shopkeeper's ingenuity, a lady in a cotton and linen dress came up to us and received us with a smile in her eyes. I looked inside and found that the teahouse near the river was empty, so I sat down happily. The eldest sister introduced us to the cost, which is 98 yuan per person. One person can order one kind of tea, and the tea can be refilled with water, and there is also a refreshment. So we each ordered our favorite tea and indulged in the beautiful scenery in front of us. The seat is leaning on the railing, which is close to the water. The water is slightly rippling and the boats are passing by. It is a truly excellent viewing position. On the other side of the river, people have planted all kinds of green plants in front of and behind their houses, including pines and cypresses pointing straight to the sky, lotuses growing close to the water, hydrangeas in full bloom, figs bearing their first fruits, and grapes climbing up the vines. , there are also copper coins in clay pots. It seems that every household has planted their favorite plants in all possible planting places. I wonder if this is a sign of Shanghainese's love for life. When the tea is served, you can see the black tiles and white walls contrasting with the flowers and green trees, and then take a sip of hot tea, which relieves your tiredness and makes you feel refreshed physically and mentally!
At some point, the sound of Pingtan slowly came into our ears. This was not what we expected, but it spread out like this, melodiously and lazily, without any abruptness. It can be seen that it is integrated with the environment. I don’t know what the song is about, but I couldn’t help but close my eyes and listen quietly, as if I went to some mysterious place, met a strange person, and listened to her tell her story. After the song was over, I felt like Applause broke out in the quiet seat, and Fang Zi returned to his senses. This short break made the whole afternoon more pleasant.
Shanghai丨Zhujiajiao
It was about 1 o'clock when we sat down. The sun was shining brightly, and heat waves were rippling in from the water. The clerks in various Chinese clothes gently circled around the tables to provide services. They were busy but did not neglect anyone. They asked warmly and carefully a few times. Do we need to move into the air-conditioned room in the back room? But Shao and I were unwilling to give up the beautiful view in front of us and always refused. So we thoughtfully moved an air-conditioning fan for us and explained that the boss lady was afraid that the ceiling fan would hit the swallows when it rotated, so the ceiling fan above was not allowed. Normally open. While I was sighing at the kindness of the landlady, I also followed her eyes and looked up. The swallows had built several homes under this small eaves. They didn't care about the people coming and going, or the sound of singing, or they were guarding their young. Or circle back on the water. I leaned back on the chair, Wu Nong whispered softly in my ear, and boats were coming and going in front of me, including hand-cranked awning boats, electric wooden boats, speedboats, inflatable rafts, lifeboats... They coexisted in the same river, and they went to their respective destinations in their own ways. In the opposite direction, we met briefly and then left each other. This was not the case for us in the tea seat.
While chatting with the waiter, I learned that the Pingtan performer is from the Shanghai Pingtan Troupe and plays here every Saturday from 2 to 3 pm. He probably has some kind of cooperative relationship with this teahouse. And these pine needles were just purchased online by the proprietress and put on the new shop floor today. It will probably be swept away in three days. In this case, Shao and I are lucky. And because of the clerk's frankness, he has a good impression of this tea house. While we were talking, I saw my eldest sister taking a broom and a dustpan and sweeping away some pine needles. I felt a little sad and asked her why she had to sweep them away. She motioned me to look in the dustpan and saw that there were melon seed peels. I couldn't help but feel angry again. Beautiful things will not last long if they cannot meet someone who cherishes them.
Talking about the tea itself, Shao and I ordered green tea Longjing and white tea Baihao Yinzhen respectively. I thought I was brewing it myself, but I never thought it was tea soup. The thermos cups made of rattan are also quite nice, and the teacups are exquisite and elegant porcelain cups. They each poured a cup. Longjing is indeed Longjing, and Baihao is indeed Silver Needle, but the tea soup is not really good. Although the taste of the tea cannot be described as bland, after all, the fragrance of the tea cannot be tasted, which is disappointing given the reputation of this first teahouse in the south of the Yangtze River. The refreshments were all surprisingly delicious. The seasonal fruits were fresh, the melon seeds were plump and crispy, the mung bean cake was cold in the mouth, and the rice dumplings were soft and fragrant. Only the orange cake was not as tasty as the Xiang'an one. At this time, I was surprised. I'm craving for the soft and fragrant Xiang'an orange cake.
But this is a good place after all. In addition to drinking tea to quench thirst and resting to relieve fatigue, you can enjoy the scenery and take photos, read a book, be influenced by a Pingtan, or you can calm down and make a page of handwriting. It all depends on your personal experience. Preferences.
Shanghai丨Zhujiajiao
And Shao and I just put on our slippers and spent a leisurely afternoon on the railing next to the water, avoiding the heat wave and embracing the comfort of the swallows under the eaves.
Until I left the teahouse, I had no chance to meet the proprietress, but I thought that with such a kind and ingenious mind, she would be an elegant person, not to mention that her shop assistants were all such peaceful and gentle women.
Shanghai丨Zhujiajiao
After leaving the teahouse, Shao and I continued to walk slowly forward. The light was already getting a little dark, and the red lanterns in front of each house were also lit up one after another. In this alternation of dim light, we were attracted by a small silhouette window of a portrait. . There was an old lady with gray hair and glasses standing by the window. She was eating something from her cup with her head down. She probably saw the two of us stopping out of the corner of her eye, so she looked up at us and gave us a few brief introductions. After Shao and I looked at each other, we decided to ask her to cut a picture for us as a souvenir. So the old lady took the scissors and paper, designated our positions, and started moving with her hands. She occasionally raised her eyes through the slit in her glasses to look at the person standing in front of her, but most of the time she focused on the scissors and paper in her hands. After a while, a silhouette of two people looking at each other was completed. After a brief look , Shao Bian and I were both amazed by this craftsmanship. The silhouette completely captured our two characteristics, even my double chin was not missed.
I was instantly interested in this old lady, so I chatted a little more. The old woman's surname is Tang. She is 79 years old this year. She was a retired senior art teacher from a middle school. Teacher Tang is from the Northeast. Because he liked this place, he retired here. According to Teacher Tang, she is not cutting silhouettes here to make money. Her pension can be more than 7,000 yuan a month, which is too much for her to spend. She is still persisting. It is purely her love for art. She knows how to cut silhouettes in the city. Many people come to learn her craft from her. Her apprentices charge 30 yuan to cut a portrait, but she only charges 5 yuan to cut a portrait. She said lightly that we were lucky to meet her now. During the day, there was a long line of people looking for her silhouette... Her pride was fully reflected in her words.
In the end, we spent 30 yuan from Teacher Tang and took away two copies of the silhouette, 10 yuan for the two heads, and 20 yuan for the background of the two heads. Later, I also saw craftsmen with silhouettes in Qibao Old Street. The silhouettes were listed on the sign for 45 yuan per person. By comparison, I felt that Teacher Tang was even more cute.
At this point, we got the most cherished souvenir of this trip: the silhouette of the two of us looking at each other.
Shanghai丨Zhujiajiao
After getting the silhouette, the sky has turned blue, night has officially fallen, the tourists have dispersed, and the ancient town has returned to silence. It was already past the time to eat, so the seats facing the river in many stores were vacant. We were too lazy to leave. After coming out of Teacher Tang’s place, we directly found a restaurant nearby and had dinner while watching the night view. When I was checking out, I noticed that it was the Zhiqing Hotel Zhujiajiao North Street Branch. White water fish, minced meat, salt and pepper bullfrog, and fried snails in soy sauce. Although not amazing, they are delicious without exception. The ingredients are fresh and the price is reasonable. For 4 dishes, plus 2 bottles of Budweiser, the price is 167 yuan.
White water fish is said to be a specialty of Zhujiajiao. It has no other problems except for having many thorns. The fresh fish body itself is steamed with a small amount of thin salty soy sauce. It is not as fresh and sweet as steamed fish with soy sauce. It provides a light base and does not take away from the flavor of the fish itself, which is actually extremely light. Even Shao, who usually hates fish with bones, was willing to calm down and pick out every piece of fish.
The pork chop is a small piece, fat and lean. The fat melts in your mouth, and the lean meat is crispy and full of sauce flavor. It is truly unique.
After the braised bullfrog in the day, I chose the salt and pepper bullfrog in the evening. It is no different from the salt and pepper bullfrog elsewhere. In short, the bullfrog is delicious.
While eating, Shao and I couldn't help but wonder, does Zhujiajiao Ancient Town have unified quality control for the food sold? For example, unified suppliers, product specifications, methods, and formulas? Otherwise, why would the food we bought at any store be safe? This is the first time in the history of our ancient town tour. For this reason, Zhujiajiao is my favorite among the ancient towns I have visited so far.
Shanghai丨Zhujiajiao
When we came out of the restaurant, it was already past 8 o'clock in the evening, and the cruise ships that frequently came and went during the day had stopped. But fortunately, the restaurant was only more than 1 kilometer away from the subway station, so it was completely feasible to walk out.
So two people wearing slippers stepped on the bluestone and returned, criticizing the stars and the moon. The bluestone slabs have been exposed to the sun for a day, and the steps smell like the sun has dried on them. However, surprisingly, they are not hot, and it is still comfortable to walk on. There were many interesting shops along the road, but because the hotel we were staying in was far away from Zhujiajiao, and I was afraid that I would miss the last subway train to transfer to, I finally didn’t dare to delay any more and left straight away. This is why I said before that taking a boat in is the right decision. Otherwise, you would have missed the opportunity to appreciate the charm of the water town on the boat today.
Shanghai丨Zhujiajiao
On the way out of Zhujiajiao, I was thinking that if I could come to Zhujiajiao again, I would choose to stay in a B&B in the ancient town, buy a few of my favorite snacks, drink a few pots of rice wine with different flavors, and light up the lamps when night falls. The river rises in the quiet wooden attic and raises a glass. When the drunkenness rises, it is pleasant to fall asleep with the sultry evening breeze on your pillow.
I think I will wake up to the cry of swallows in the morning, open the window, and be greeted by moist and sweet air, awakening the pores and refreshing the heart and spleen. I will make a pot of tea, wake up the one I love, lean on the railing together, drink tea together, drink away the remaining drunkenness of yesterday, and drink in the joy of a new day.
If there is any regret, it is probably not being able to meet a little rain. I am always willing to meet a little rain when I am quiet. It will make the world full of poetry. Whether it is listening to the spring rain in a small building all night, selling apricot flowers in the deep alleys in the Ming Dynasty; or the morning rain in Weicheng and the light dust in the guest house, the green willow color is new; or the swallows are leaving the spring scenery again, and there is a dusk rain on the screen window... These are all what I yearn for. romantic.
Shanghai丨Zhujiajiao
I really want to come to Zhujiajiao again, but I don’t know if I can come to Zhujiajiao again. I am always too greedy. I want to go to too many places and have too few days to travel. But I am not overly sad. I spend every moment the way I like. This is the best life. Besides, I believe that if I don’t come to Zhujiajiao during the days when I can travel, I will definitely go. I went to another place that could bring me wonderful experiences and experienced another kind of life that I like.
I like to see other people's lives, but I don't often envy other people's lives. I always believe that life has all kinds of appearances, and all kinds of appearances have all kinds of flavors. Depressed or happy, boring or exciting, you can decide by yourself, with hands willing to create, eyes good at observing, a contented heart, and a non-stop pace at your feet.
If life is a train that keeps moving forward, traveling is more like a transit. Where the next stop is, I don’t know, I’m looking forward to it, but I’m also enjoying the scenery along the way.
In this article, I will talk about my trip to Zhujiajiao Ancient Town in Shanghai.
Farewell to you tomorrow
Yaya Yaqiong
June 15, 2021
