The Charm of Ancient Crossing - Five Tours Around Dianchi Lake

monuments

When traveling around Dianchi Lake, you must visit Guandu Ancient Town.

I can’t remember how many times I’ve been to Guandu Ancient Town. In 2011 I wrote a blog post called “The Ancient Town Built on a Snail Shell”. Guandu Ancient Town is like a magnet that attracts me to go there every now and then. The magnetism is not the shops on both sides of the stone road, nor the antique buildings with antique charm, but the historical charm that still exists there, as well as the coveted Guandu snacks and the gradually fading Guandu accent. Every time I go, there are always new feelings, every time I go there are gains, and every time I go there are regrets.

(Guangfu Road in the south of the ancient town)

Guandu Ancient Town is located between Guangfu Road and Caiyun North Road, with the New and Old Baoxiang Rivers passing through it from the east to the west. Guandu was originally a small island in Dianchi Lake and was inhabited by humans a long time ago. Our ancestors once made a living by fishing and hunting, and snails as food. The abandoned snail shells piled up like a mountain, forming a very large pile of snail shells, which is commonly known as "snail cave". Archeology found that the snail shells here have a wide range of layers. Approximately 1 ten thousand square meters, and 3-8 meters thick. Polished stone tools were also found on the hill here. According to archaeological identification, this is one of the sites of the Neolithic "shell mound culture".

(Guandu Ancient Town)

There is a large archway at the entrance of the ancient town on Guangfu Road. Behind the archway is a street paved with bluestones, with antique two-story buildings on both sides of the street. Standing in the street, you can see the dignified and simple King Kong Throne Tower at the other end of the street from a distance. If it weren't for the modern clothes of the pedestrians on the street and the music coming from the shops, it would make people feel like they have traveled through time.

(Street scene in ancient town)

(Street scene in ancient town)

(Street scene in ancient town)

(Street scene in ancient town)

The ancient town was originally a small island in the vast mist of Dianchi Lake. According to expert historical research, the sediment carried by the Baoxiang River (Baojiang River) from the northeast was deposited and expanded at the mouth of the Dianhe River. The river bed slowly extended forward. In addition, the Saidian in the early Yuan Dynasty Chi and Zhang Lidao controlled the floods in Dianchi Lake, and Guandu Island gradually connected with the mainland. The east coast of Dianchi Lake extends to the vicinity of Shangyi Village. In later years, the shoreline of Dianchi Lake retreated several kilometers to the line of Dianchi Peninsula. .

As early as the Dali Kingdom in the Song Dynasty, the island had beautiful scenery, Shanchanhou the Gao family seemed to be fond of Guandu, and designated Guandu as a seat under his direct jurisdiction , established Guandu County in Wodong, which is as famous as Kunming, and built a city. A ferry is set up here, called the East Ferry, opposite to the high hill at the West Ferry. It is the main waterway that must pass between the east and west of Dianchi Lake. Since then, Guandu has become a resort where dignitaries, celebrities and wise men visit. " The local scholar-bureaucrats visited the ferry, and the cable boat was whistling freely at the ferry. It was so intoxicating that it forgot to return. It was named Guandu. " ("Inscription of the Creation of Miaozhan Temple") And it is said that the ferry was located southeast of Guanyin Temple in Shangyi Village today, and the original site has long since disappeared due to the shrinkage of Dianchi Lake.

At that time, Guandu gradually became a prosperous ferry crossing for officials, merchant ships and fishing boats, it must have been very lively. There is a poem that goes: " How many pedestrians come and go here, and the hoofs of horses break through the five-shift frost." "The wine curtain here invites me to get drunk, and the sheng and drums across the boat send me home." The bustling ferries and fishing boats Gathered here, whenever night falls, I can see the bright lights of the ferry lighthouse and the lights of the fishing boats in the lake, just like the twinkling stars in the sky, forming a scene of its own. The ancient fishing lanterns have become one of the eight scenic spots in old Kunming and one of the eight scenic spots in Guandu. Zhang Shilian of the Qing Dynasty wrote a poem "Guandu Fishing Lantern": " Boating towards Fankun Pond and returning to Guandu Village at night. The fish penetrates the willow leaves, and the lamp hides the roots of the dill flowers. The stars in the distance of Puyuan are shadowed, and the moon spits traces in the sky of the river. . Inviting neighbors to drink and drinking wine by the bonfire " The prosperity of Guandu at that time can be seen from this.

“ To the northwest, you can see Biji and Jinma, with beautiful mist and clouds and apricot mist. To the southeast, you can see the Langzang River, which flows around Yunnan, with forests and valleys and fertile fields. "The Guandu recorded in the "Inscription on the Establishment of Miaozhan Temple" written by Puxiang in the Yuan Dynasty is still connected to the lake even though it is connected to the land. The eight scenic spots on the ancient ferry make the passing tourists have endless fun. There is a poem saying: " The ancient ferry head beside Guandu River, the green spiral peaks pillow the clear stream; the moon platform reflects the palace in the water, and the shepherd boy in the apricot garden herds sheep. The morning and evening mists surround the sky, and the largest lawn in the ancient collection is the lawn; King Kong sits by the bridge at night, writing poems under the moon. The poem describes the "Eight Scenic Spots of Guandu": Ancient ferry fishing lanterns, green hills, Yuntai moonlight, apricot garden Shepherding, soaring into the clouds , Southern Yunnan Lawn, King Kong Night Talk, Writing the Sky . <span style=”;color: rgb(51, 51, 51);font-family: “&font-size: 16px”> Today, the ancient town has changed with the passage of time. It is difficult to find all of them, but at least there are Luofeng Mountain, Vajra Pagoda, East Pagoda of Miaozhan Temple and Lingyun Pavilion for us to find traces of "Luofeng Greenery", "Vajra Night Talk", "Pen Writing in the Sky" and "Lingyun Smoke".

When you cross a small stone bridge and walk into the Jingang Pagoda Square, the core part of the ancient town's culture, you look around. Surrounding the Jingang Pagoda is a group of ancient buildings. The Jingang Pagoda stands majestically in the middle of the square.

(Jingang Tower)

According to the "Inscription on Tower Construction" on the west wall of the Vajra Pagoda, the Guandu Vajra Pagoda was first built in the Yuan Zhizheng period (1341-1367). It was originally part of the Miaozhan Temple building complex, all made of sand and stone, so it is called the Miaozhan Temple Stone Pagoda because the base of the Vajra Pagoda has four gates from east to west, north and south. , the cross is connected, and people and vehicles can pass through it. It is also called the Chuanxin Pagoda. It is also called Yinglanruo Pagoda in Miaozhan Temple. The name of Jingang Pagoda was used when it was announced as a key cultural relic protection unit. Now people are also accustomed to calling it the Diamond Tower. The Diamond Pagoda built in the Yuan Dynasty was later destroyed. The existing Diamond Pagoda was built in the first year of Tianshun in the Ming Dynasty (1457) and completed the following year. During the Kangxi period, part of the tower was damaged due to an earthquake. In the 35th year of Kangxi's reign, It was rebuilt in 1696 and further repaired in 1982. The rear tower sank. In 2002, the cultural relics department used engineering technology to lift the entire 1,350-ton Diamond Tower by 2.6 meters. There was no damage during the lifting process. Legend has it that when the tower was built, snail shell powder was mixed with black clay to lay the solid foundation, and glutinous rice slurry was mixed with red mud to lay the stones. It is very strong. After more than 500 years of history and the test of earthquakes, it still remains proud and majestic.

Guandu King Kong Throne Tower is the only stone tower made of sand and gravel in China. According to information, there are four ancient Vajra Pagodas existing in my country ( Vajra Throne Pagoda at Zhenjue Temple in Beijing, Vajra Throne Pagoda at Biyun Temple in Xiangshan, Beijing, Vajra Relic Pagoda at Cideng Temple in Hohhot, Inner Mongolia, and Vajra Throne Pagoda in Guandu Ancient Town, Kunming), it is the earliest built and best preserved one. In 1996, the State Council announced it as a national key cultural relics protection unit. The Jingang Pagoda in Guandu Ancient Town is simple, elegant , with unique shape, fine construction, and exquisite and vivid carvings inside the pagoda. The Guandu Vajra Pagoda has a deep imprint of the Tibetan Tantric Pagoda, which is clearly reflected in the Lama Pagoda-style architecture of the tower body. The Vajra Pagoda with a Lama Pagoda body is the only one in the country, and it can be called the best Vajra Throne-style pagoda in the country. It's a pity that the tower is now surrounded by iron fences for protection, and the construction and exquisite carvings inside the tower can no longer be seen. In the article "About Buddhist Pagodas", architect Liang Sicheng specifically mentioned that the Vajra Throne Pagoda of Miaozhan Temple in Guandu, the Zhenjue Temple Pagoda in Beijing, and the Biyun Temple Pagoda in the northwest are both precious among Chinese lama pagodas. Examples are extremely precious cultural relics for studying the history, architecture and art of Chinese Tantric Buddhism.

Folks also have many versions of legends about the construction of the Guandu Vajra Pagoda. The "Oral Literature The Legend of the Vajra Pagoda" from the Guandu District Cultural Center says that the water of Guandu Ferry is deep and clear, and there are dragons in the water. The dragon has nine sons. The dragon's sons bring harm to the people and make the old dragon angry to death. Long Zi's evil deeds became even more rampant. There was a wandering monk who came down to earth like an immortal and helped the people to suppress Longzi with a tower, and there was peace from then on. There are Vajra warriors on the tower, so it is called Vajra Tower. Some people say that a tower was built to suppress the monster because of the snail monster causing trouble. However, although there are many versions, they all share the same topic: "Pagoda to Suppress the River Monster".

Legends are legends, and folk legends also reflect the people's desire to control floods in Dianchi Lake and their pursuit of living and working in peace and contentment. Although building stone pagodas also means those in power to flaunt their political achievements, its main purpose is to build pagodas to comply with folk customs, advocate Buddhism, and not rule the country because of the customs, and pray for political harmony and harmony. , the border is worry-free.

(Women in the turret under the Vajra Pagoda)

Guandu Ancient Town has many cultural monuments. In an area of ​​less than 1.5 square kilometers, there are six temples, seven pavilions and eight temples from the Tang, Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties (Miaozhan Temple, Fingfa Temple, Guanyin Temple, Wugu Temple, Randeng Temple, Feiliang Temple, Wenming Pavilion, Lingyun Pavilion, Kuixing Pavilion, Doumu Pavilion, Yuhuang Pavilion, Suoshui Pavilion, Pilu Pavilion, There are many historic buildings such as Tuzhu Temple, Yuewang Temple, Confucian Temple, Niangniang Temple, Taiyi Temple, Tutu Temple, Huoshen Temple, and Wu Temple ). There are six and eight temples in a small place, and these temples are also of a certain scale. This is a strange phenomenon, which seems to be related to the princes and nobles of Nanzhao and Dali who first settled here. It is related to the religious culture that goes hand in hand with them. At the same time, it also proves from another perspective the prosperity of Guandu in ancient times and its important position in the development of Yunnan culture.

The ancient buildings around the Jingang Pagoda Square include the Tuzhu Temple built during the Nanzhao period, the Fading Temple built during the Song Dynasty, and the Miaozhan Temple, the "first of the six temples" in Guandu, and the Wenming Pavilion complex, the east and west towers of Miaozhan Temple. There is an ancient stage between the Vajra Tower and the east and west towers. Guanyin Temple is in Luofeng Village, not far from the square.

Miaozhan Temple was first built in the 27th year of the Yuan Dynasty (1290) and completed in 1295. It later collapsed due to flooding and was moved to the center of the current ancient town in 1325. There are two 13-story solid square brick towers with dense eaves in the east and west of the temple. Later, the west tower was destroyed by an earthquake, but the east tower remains today. In 2001, the cultural rescue project of the ancient town was implemented, and the Miaozhan Temple and the West Pagoda were rebuilt. When you walk to the steps in front of the temple, if you don't look carefully, you will see a plaque reading "Shaolin Temple" when you look up. People who don't know it will be surprised. In order to better manage the rebuilt temples in Guandu, in November 2008, Shaolin Temple took over four temples: Miaozhan Temple, Tuzhu Temple, Fingfa Temple and Guanyin Temple, and opened the "Kunming Shaolin Martial Arts Vocational School" here.

(East and West Pagodas and Miaozhan Temple)

(Guandu Shaolin Temple [Miaozhan Temple])

(Garuda on the top of the East Tower)

(ancient stage)

(Miaozhan Temple)

(Miaozhan Temple)

(Miaozhan Temple)

Tuzhu Temple is the earliest temple in the ancient town. It was built during the Nanzhao period of Tang Dynasty. It is dedicated to Mahakala Mahakala, one of the three protective gods of Nanzhao (the other two are Guanyin and Bishamon). The prototype of this god is Shiva, the cosmic god of Brahmanism in ancient India. After converting to Buddhism, he became a first-class protector god. In the 21st year of the reign of Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty (1895), Guandu neighborhood gentry and monks rebuilt it. The existing main hall was built at that time. Tuzhu Temple has been built for more than 1,200 years, and its incense has not diminished after thousands of years. In 1982, the government invested in renovating the main hall, and in 1983 it was announced as a key cultural relic protection unit in Kunming. It was renovated after 2001 and was announced as the seventh batch of Yunnan provincial key cultural relics protection units in 2003.

(Tuzhu Temple)

Every year on the 19th day of the second lunar month, Guandu Ancient Town holds a three-day Tuzhu Temple Fair. The Tuzhu Temple Fair is one of the traditional festivals in Guandu Ancient Town, also known as the Bodhisattva Meeting and the Welcome to the Tuzhu Master. After years of evolution, the Tuzhu Temple Fair has now become a traditional folk festival. The "White Ox Welcomes Tuzhu" parade is one of the main contents of the Tuzhu Temple Fair.

There is a stone tablet on the outside of the gate of Tuzhu Temple, which is engraved with "Yunxiu Middle School (Tuzhu Temple) Guandu Primary School Revolutionary Base". After consulting relevant information, we found out that Tuzhu Temple also has a little-known history. In late January 1939, with the approval of the Yunnan Provincial Special Committee of the Communist Party of China, the "First Congress of the Yunnan Team Headquarters of the Chinese National Liberation Vanguard" was held with the participation of representatives from team headquarters at all levels. The Tuzhu Temple was held. The meeting listened to relevant reports and elected new "Democracy First" Yunnan team headquarters leaders.

Before and after the Revolution of 1911, the Tuzhu Temple successively established district offices, junior primary schools, and private schools; after the "July 7th Incident", the provincial Guandu Agricultural School and the private Yunxiu Middle School were successively established. At the beginning of the founding of the People's Republic of China, Kunming No. 9 Middle School was also located here.

(Tuzhu Temple)

(Students from the martial arts school in Tuzhu Temple are in class)

That day, I walked into the mountain gate of Tuzhu Temple. On the platform in front of the main hall, the master from the martial arts school was teaching the students how to practice martial arts. There are also foreigners among the students. The Shaolin master taught the movements in English. There are warnings posted in the temple that outsiders are not allowed to approach during the practice to avoid injury. It can only be seen from a distance.

The Fading Temple, which is separated from the Tuzhu Temple by a wall and faces the same direction, is located on the famous snail shell "shell mound" in the ancient town - Luofeng Mountain. This ancient temple was first built in the 11th century. Dali During the Ming Dynasty, it was rebuilt by successive dynasties and is no longer the original one from the Song and Yuan Dynasties. Experts have identified that the civil structure of the main hall is from the early to mid-Ming Dynasty, and it still retains the style of Song Dynasty architecture. In the temple courtyard, there are exquisite bell and drum towers on the left and right, and such structures seem to be rare. Perhaps, Fading Temple is located at the highest point of the ancient town, and the morning bell and evening drum sound to awaken all living beings.

(Legal Temple)

(Official temple bell tower)

(Drum Tower of the Legal Temple)

We visited several temples around the square, and the Wenming Pavilion complex next to Miaozhan Temple is also a must-see. If you want to have a deep understanding of Guandu ancient culture and ancient Yunnan culture, the Wenming Pavilion complex is really worth a visit.

(Civilization Pavilion)

The Wenming Pavilion building complex includes Wenming Pavilion, Confucius Tower, Lingxing Gate, Cishu Hall, and Guansheng Temple. The "Kunming Stele Forest Museum" is located in the Wenming Pavilion complex. When you walk into the gate, you will see stone tablets that have been erected and embedded in the walls for hundreds of years.

On display in the Cishu Hall are rubbings of inscriptions and Forest of Steles Museum the earliest existing stone carving , which has a history of more than 1,800 years , From the stone carvings of Liu Hu, Emperor An of the Eastern Han Dynasty, "Yanguang 4th Year (AD 125)" from Guandu Pagoda (copy, the original is collected in the Yunnan Provincial Museum) ”The hard work of cultural relic workers has enabled the preservation of these historical records engraved on stone tablets. The museum currently collects 72 squares of inscriptions and 104 rubbings. The content of these inscriptions and rubbings covers a wide range of areas, recording the politics, economy, culture, ethnicity, religion, water conservancy, transportation and many other aspects of Guandu, Kunming and even the wider region. The contents of the inscriptions are rarely found in historical records, but they reflect the social sentiments of the time and complement the historical legacy. They are irreplaceable in historical records. The beautiful calligraphy on the inscriptions also has high artistic value. In this forest of steles, there is also the unique "Stele of the Remains of the Corrupt Official Xu Liang'an in Lunan". Since ancient times, monuments have been erected only for fame, but this monument breaks the convention. Such monuments are indeed rare.

(Stone carving in the fourth year of Yanguang in the Eastern Han Dynasty)

(Guan Shen Temple)

In the Wenming Pavilion complex, the gate to the Guan Temple was closed tightly and we could not enter. The Confucius Tower was not visible either. I had to wait until it was open to go.

(The word "loyalty" and "sunflower" on the "Zhongzi Bridge")

I saw several stone carvings piled up on the wall of Cishu Building, including the word "loyalty" and "sunflower" on the "Zhongzi Bridge". Some of the Zhongzi Bridges I saw while hiking the Panlong River were missing the Zhongzi and sunflowers. I didn’t expect to see them here. Although these stone carvings are not that old, they are still items left over from that special era.

After seeing the forest of steles, we came to the Lao Baoxiang River. There is a "Guangji Bridge" here, and at the other end of the bridge is Lingyun Pavilion. There is a stone inscription on the wall of the pavilion "Reconstruction of Lingyun Pavilion, Kuixing Pavilion and Reconstruction of Guangji Bridge": Lingyun Pavilion is commonly known as Shang Pavilion and Suoshui Pavilion. In the spring of the thirty-seventh year of Kangxi's reign in the Qing Dynasty (1698), it was initiated by a native Wang Sixun. Wang Sixun, who advocated the construction of Lingyun Pavilion, was admitted to Juren in the second year. In the forty-fifth year of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty (1706), he served as a scholar in several provinces. He was once the teacher of the young Emperor Yongzheng. The emperor once gave tens of thousands of books. Wang Sixun returned to his hometown in honor and later built a library to collect the collection.

(Lingyun Pavilion and Guangji Bridge)

(Lingyun Pavilion)

(Lingyun Pavilion)

(Lingyun Pavilion)

(The Lao Baoxiang River flows quietly through the ancient town like a ditch)

It is said that Lingyun Pavilion was originally located at the present site of Confucius Tower. It was completely destroyed by the Kunming earthquake in the 13th year of Daoguang (1833) and rebuilt in the 17th year of Daoguang. The current site was probably built together with Suoshui Pavilion during reconstruction, so it is also commonly known as "Suoshui Pavilion". In the inscription of "Lingyun Pavilion Ode": " The setting sun on the top of the tower fills the Shutou Pavilion, the shadow of the dragon is covered with shadows, and the slanting light falls on the jade sky. "One side of the original pavilion is close to the Baoxiang River Embankment, surrounded by temples and houses. In the morning and evening, mist and smoke rise from all directions, lingering around the pavilion for a long time. Therefore, it is said that it is one of the eight scenic spots in Guandu, "the clouds are filled with smoke."

The Guangji Bridge, whose construction date is unknown, was first repaired in the fiftieth year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty (1785). It was repaired again during the Guangxu period, and the rear bridge railing was destroyed. . Renovated in 2002.

(Kui Xing Pavilion)

(Kui Xing Pavilion)

(The street in front of Kuixing Pavilion)

At the other end of the street, Kuixing Pavilion and Lingyun Pavilion face each other.

Kuixing Pavilion is commonly known as Xia Pavilion. According to "Reconstruction of Lingyun Pavilion, Kuixing Pavilion and Reconstruction of Guangji Bridge", Kuixing Pavilion was first built in the third year of Xuantong in the Qing Dynasty (1911). It had been in disrepair for a long time and was destroyed by a tornado.

When I arrived in front of Kuixing Pavilion, I saw that the attic was surrounded by modern buildings, shops and electric wires, and the proud door of Kuixing Pavilion was closed. It seems that Kuixing, the god who dominates cultural fortunes, seems helpless in the siege of commercialization.

I am going to look for traces of the old houses in the ancient town, just to confirm the snail shells in the soil of the old house walls. But in today's ancient town, in addition to the antique buildings on the streets, the houses in the alleys are also four or five-story steel-concrete buildings. Finally, in a jungle of modern buildings in a narrow alley, I saw two old houses. I was a little overjoyed. I walked over quickly and saw two relatively complete shells on the wall and tiny fragments visible in the soil of the wall. The shell finally satisfied his senses and intuition.

(Old house in the ancient town)

(Mud wall mixed with snail shells)

Guandu Ancient Town has a long history of thousands of years, and has accumulated a rich history and culture in the long river of history. The many historical sites, cultural folk customs, and intangible cultural heritage specialties will make you feel like you are constantly seeing something new. When I get home and write this article, I inevitably feel like I have missed something. Wandering in the ancient town, from the perspective of tourism, it is a good scenic spot; from the perspective of architecture, with the research of ancient buildings, architectural art and the beauty of architectural structures, every place is material for writing exquisite papers; from the perspective of religion, From a sociological perspective, we can explore the origin and development of religious culture; from a sociological perspective, the formation and development of ancient towns and the inheritance of excellent folk customs all have good research value; Those intangible cultural heritage The treasures in it shine with the light of excellent Chinese culture...

There is a lot to see when visiting the ancient town. Next time, I will feel the local accent and ancient charm, and taste the Guandu snacks in the ancient town...