The Charm of Ancient Crossing - Six Tours Around Dianchi Lake

Local accent and ancient rhyme

"Thousands of elegant tunes are connected from a distance A local accent is the most listenable." Wandering around the ancient town, visiting the historical sites, and not watching a Yunnan opera lantern, enjoying the visual and auditory "delicious food", and gaining a deeper understanding of the ancient town's ancient Yunnan culture, you have never been to the ancient town.

I came to the "Gudu Liyuan" in the ancient town just to listen to the "elegance of the ages" and the "audible local accent".

The "Gudu Liyuan" founded by my cousin is an independent and exquisite antique building, unique among similar buildings. Although the "Pear Garden" is not large, it can accommodate a hundred or ten people. Rows of tables and chairs are arranged neatly, and the sun shines in through the window lattice, making the theater look bright. Here, every Wednesday to Sunday afternoon 2, a classical Yunnan opera or lantern will be performed. During the performance, the actors mostly come from the city by bus or subway, and the audience also comes from the city and surrounding areas. Many times, although most of the actors on stage are retired theater actors, the audience in the audience are mostly 60 older people, and there are also young people. Theater fans. The actors performed seriously on stage, and the audience was also very engaged in watching the performance. For no reason, it was all because of their obsession, perseverance and perseverance in Yunnan opera lanterns.

Whenever there is a performance, theater fans come to the "Liyuan" early, buy a five-yuan ticket, take out their own cups, make a cup of tea, put it on the table in front of them, and watch the play leisurely, sitting on the silk screen. Spend this wonderful time in the afternoon listening to the music of piano and singing.

Yunnan opera is a local opera in Yunnan, and is known as the "quintessence of Yunnan" among the people. From the late Ming Dynasty to the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, Si Xian (originating from the earlier Qin Opera), Xiangyang (originating from the Xianghe School of Han Opera), Huqin (originating from Hui Opera) and other tunes were successively introduced to Yunnan, and combined with the dialect pronunciation of Yunnan The local customs and folk music gradually developed into a new type of local opera — Yunnan Opera. During its formation and development, Yunnan opera has absorbed rich folk arts and has strong national and local characteristics. 20087 month, Dian Opera was approved by the State Council to be listed in the second The national intangible cultural heritage list was approved.

Yunnan Lantern Kong is also one of the local opera types in Yunnan. It originated from the lanterns in the folk "Shehuo" activities in the Ming Dynasty or earlier. It developed from the original lantern songs and dances into lantern operas, and mature drama forms also include 200 years of history. The lanterns are full of singing and dancing, the performances are festive, and some of the singing and dancing are humorous, which is very popular among the people.

I went to the "Liyuan" to buy a ticket. In order to facilitate taking photos without disturbing other spectators, I entered and chose a seat in the last row. I asked the ticket seller if I could take photos, and got a positive answer. I sat down and waited for the show to start.

…………

Time flies, time flies. Looking at the closed scarlet curtain on the stage, I was trance-like and returned to my childhood memories. I remember that in the small county town where I grew up, every year, there would be theater troupes from neighboring counties performing. At that time, in Wenshan Prefecture, there was a Dian Opera Troupe in Guangnan County, a Lantern Troupe in Qiubei County, a Peking Opera Troupe in the prefecture, and a Peking Opera Theater. The "quintessence of the country" and the "quintessence of Yunnan" are all gone. I was only about ten years old at the time, but I also loved watching performances. Whenever a theater troupe came to perform in the county, I would occasionally save 10 or 20 cents from my breakfast money and buy a B ticket, acting like an adult. Bajing sat in his seat and watched the show. However, most of the time I just "sneak" in and find a corner where I can stand and watch all night. When I feel sleepy, I immediately feel energetic when I hear the sound of gongs and cymbals on the stage, "Cock, choke, choke, choke..., choke, choke". As for who is with whom on the stage When it comes to fighting, the plot is not important at all, as long as the fighting is dazzling and the fighting is exciting. The lanterns I like to watch are also lantern songs and dances, lantern tunes, singing and dancing, lively.

In the years when "model operas" were sung, there seemed to be a trend in various places to learn from "model operas" of Peking Opera, and adapting them to local operas was called "transplantation." I went to Anping Primary School, and the teachers at the school were also very artistic. The school organized a rehearsal of the modern Peking Opera "Shajiabang" using lanterns "transplanted". Most of the teachers came on stage, but there weren't enough extras, so the fifth and sixth grade students also had to play extras or something like that. Looking back, all the teachers and students in the school worked together to perform the lantern drama "Shajiabang" in a decent, charming and successful way. The lantern singing combined with the local dialect sounds very interesting.

Decades later, when I look back, those teachers who played the main roles are still fresh in my mind.

…………

"Choke choke choke choke..." The opening gongs and cymbals sounded on the stage, calling me back to reality from my memory.

Although some of the actors on the stage are older, they still sing with perfect accuracy and smooth flow, and their passion seems to be the same as before. Sometimes there are young actors who love the art of Yunnan opera lanterns performing on stage in the "Liyuan". Most of the audience in the audience are old theater fans. Some of them come almost every time there is a performance. No matter whether they have performed the play many times, they still watch it with gusto. This is the atmosphere.

Because there were no subtitles, an audience member sitting next to me acted as a plot commentator for me while watching.

"Gudu Liyuan" is not only the venue for Yunnan Opera Lantern performances, but also the "Yunnan Province Intangible Cultural Heritage Protection and Inheritance Base", "Dian Opera Lantern Transmission Center", and "Kunming Yunnan Opera Art Troupe", and has become a designated learning base for some schools . From the banners hanging around the theater, we can see that the inheritance of the ancient art of Yunnan Opera will be passed on to others.

Since his cousin Zhang Xiong founded "Gudu Liyuan" in 2010, he has devoted himself selflessly and without expecting anything in return to support the inheritance and development of Yunnan opera and contribute to the development of Yunnan opera. It has made a contribution to the "intangible cultural heritage" inheritance of the drama. Recently, he won the honor of "2018Yunnan Good Person". As the award speech at the awards night said: With his perseverance, he "attracts opera fans who come without asking for anything in return, and accommodates theater fans who never leave." With the nourishment of "the passionate souls of countless veterans of Yunnan opera, Only then can an ancient culture have a long history.”

After watching a performance, outside the theater, it seems that the melodious sound of strings and high-pitched singing are still echoing in my ears with endless charm.

After leaving "Gudu Liyuan", I came to the "Yunzi Museum" on the opposite street.

"Yunzi" is the abbreviation of Yunnan Go piece. In ancient times, it was called "Yunbian", "Yunyaozi" and "Yongchangzi". It originated in Yongchang County, Yunnan (now Baoshan City). It is an ancient traditional cultural art in my country. According to records, Yunzi began in the Tang and Song Dynasties and flourished in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is kiln-fired using Yunnan's unique amethyst, agate and other natural raw minerals. The texture of Yunzi is as fine as jade, the color is crystal clear and soft, the light is not dazzling, the stone is strong but not brittle, and it is heavy but not slippery. The earliest mention of Yunzi in historical documents is "Fu Mengqiu" written by Fu Mengqiu of the late Tang Dynasty in Volume 958 of "Quan Tang Wen", which contains "The wood of the catalpa tree is set on the wooden pole, and the son comes out of the furnace in southern Yunnan." There are many. There are also records in historical records. For example, in "Xu Xiake's Travels", there was a saying that "when the chess pieces come out of Yunnan, the one from Yongchang will be the best."

Originated in China, Go was recorded during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. It was called "Yi" in ancient times. It contains rich connotations of Chinese culture. "Small skills can be compared to big ones." The small chessboard contains philosophy, wisdom, and wisdom. The thinking and charm cannot but be said to be broad and profound. Go is accompanied by Confucianism, Buddhism, Taoism and other cultures and arts, and has been integrated into the history of Chinese civilization for thousands of years. Together with calligraphy, painting, and piano, it is known as the "four major cultures and arts" in ancient China. Literati, Confucian generals, and even emperors have I like to play Go to cultivate my sentiments, talk about classics, plan battles, communicate, or have fun. Since its inception, "Yunzi" has also been favored by players of all ages, and was once presented to the royal family as a tribute.

At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, the country's fortunes declined and chess power faded. Yunzi's traditional production process recipes were once lost. Until the middle of the 1970 era, who would have thought that Yunzi's traditional manufacturing techniques could be restored in a factory run by a school in Kunming. Kunming No. 12 Middle School School-run Factory relied on several old clouds collected from the private sector to form a research team. After countless experiments, it was finally established in 1975 The traditional production technology of Yunzi has been restored. In the spring of 1980, the factory run by Kunming No. 12 Middle School was renamed "Yunnan Go Factory". In 2013, the Yunnan Go Factory moved entirely from Tuodong Road to its current location in Guandu Ancient Town.

The Yunnan Go Factory facing the main street is not only the Yunnan Go Factory, the Yunzi Museum, but also the Yunzi Chess Academy. Entering the courtyard, a large Yin-Yang Tai Chi diagram made of black and white chess pieces is eye-catching on the wall facing you.

Although the Yunzi Museum is not large, you can see all of Yunzi's past and present lives here. You can also see the comments and signatures of the "national players" and appreciate the high-end Yunzi that is crystal clear and round, as solid as jade. Here you can learn about the raw materials and traditional tools for making Yunzi. A pair of Yunzi left over from the Ming Dynasty made me seem to see the ancient scene of two people playing chess in a mountain stream with a clear breeze and flowing water.

When visiting Guandu Ancient Town, as long as you spend more time and visit various "intangible cultural heritage" museums, you will definitely gain more.

The black copper and silver craftsmanship originated in Yunnan Shiping during the Yongzheng period of the Qing Dynasty. Some people praised it as being as famous as Beijing cloisonné, and called it "the best copper art in the world". 2011 In 6 its production process was officially included in the third batch of national intangible cultural heritage list. Black copper silver walking uses copper as a body, carves various patterns and patterns on the tire, and then fills the pattern with molten silver (or gold) water. After processing, the base copper will naturally turn black, revealing the silver ( or gold) pattern, showing a clear black and white (or black and yellow) effect, antique, elegant and unique. Because it is usually inlaid with silver, it is called "black copper and silver".

The black copper and silver craftsmanship spread from Shiping, to this day, there are only three master craftsmanships in Yunnan: Guandu black copper and silver, Baoshan black copper and silver and Jinning black copper and silver, master this traditional craft.

2010 year8 month18 On September 1, as the first intangible cultural heritage heritage museum in Yunnan Province, the "Black Copper Walking Silver" heritage museum opened in Guandu Ancient Town.

When I came to the museum, I saw that its building was also an antique building. This is also the "Yunnan Provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage Protection and Inheritance Base", and the studio of Master Jin Yongcai, director of the Chuanxi Museum, is also here.

It is said that the craftsmanship of black copper and silver is made by a coppersmith named Yue in Shiping who accidentally dropped the gold ring he was wearing into the smelted copper when he was smelting copper. Later, with his craftsman's unique vision, he discovered the mystery and put it in The surface of the bronze vessel was engraved with patterns and embedded with silver wire to make the earliest black copper and silver.

Jin Yongcai, the inheritor of Guandu Wutongzouyin, was born in Guandu. He learned to be a silversmith when he was young. In the process of doing silver jewelry business, he met his master Li Jiaru and became a close friend regardless of age difference. Li Jiaru was from Shiping and was a person full of ups and downs and legends. 1950 In the mid-1980s, he came to Guandu alone. Eight years after Jin Yongcai and Li Jiaru met, Li Jiaru accepted Jin Yongcai as his apprentice, but did not teach him the unique skill of copper and silver. 1995 Year, 80 As he aged, Li Jiaru's health deteriorated and he was often hospitalized. Li Jiaru was worried that the art of making black copper and silver would be lost in his hands, so after being discharged from the hospital, he said to Jin Yongcai, "The art of making black copper and silver cannot be lost in my hands." He then took out the formula and gave it to Jin Yongcai, asking him to 15 He had to memorize the recipe within 15 minutes. When the time came, Li Jiaru would collect the recipe, fold it up, throw it into the fire and burn it all. More than three months later, Li Jiaru passed away.

Through Jin Yongcai's inheritance, persistence and innovation, the production technology of Guandu black copper and silver has made new developments. I think so, every excellent traditional culture will be more vital if it follows the development of the times, protects and inherits it on the basis of insisting on innovation.

Walking on the streets of Guandu Ancient Town, people visiting, sightseeing, and shopping form a bustling flow of people, coming and going from north to south, mixed with dialects and accents from various places, and southern and northern accents. It is hard to hear the local accent of Guandu. Turning to the back alleys, there were several tables playing cards and people sitting and drinking tea chatting. As soon as I opened my mouth, the slightly thick nasal accent and strong Guandu accent made me feel familiar.

The traditional costumes of adult women in the rural areas of Kunming include a hairdo, a blue yindan cloth handkerchief, a blue placket top, a black corduroy waistcoat tied with an embroidered belt, and some even wear an embroidered apron. , Wear a pair of embroidered shoes on your feet. Among today's trendy modern clothing crowd, in my opinion, it must be as unique as possible and as cool as possible. If you look closely at the clothing, it seems to have the faint characteristics of women's clothing in Jiangnan water towns. Such traditional clothing obviously retains traces of the times. Perhaps it was brought by the large-scale migration from the south of the Yangtze River in the Ming Dynasty, and was blended with the costumes of local ethnic minorities and passed down. As the older generation gets older, such clothing is rarely seen even on the streets of ancient towns. Perhaps, not too long ago, we will only be able to appreciate these "yindan blue" costumes in museums.

Although indan blue is rarely seen in the clothing of pedestrians on the streets of the ancient town, ancient clothing can occasionally be seen among the people wearing modern clothes, which makes them stand out. Some young people like to wear Hanfu and go to the ancient town to feel the charm of the ancient town and lead a unique style.

After watching and listening in Guandu Ancient Town, you have received visual and auditory satisfaction. You might as well look for the fragrance wafting in the air, go to the food street, and taste the snacks of the ancient town. There is a local folk saying that Guandu's delicacies and snacks have three treasures: Guandu bait cubes, Guandu cakes, Guandu small pot rice noodles, and of course wheat cakes, pea flour, fried small fish, boiled snails, and bean noodles glutinous rice balls ...Wait for some snacks with Guandu characteristics. However, I can’t eat so much at one time, so I’ll start with a bowl of small pot rice noodles and fried pea powder, and take Guandu cakes and Guandu bait cubes home to eat slowly…