Inscription: After returning from Haba Village, I still had the same reaction after going to and from the plateau, feeling sleepy. In the end, time is fleeting, and the sweet dream finally fails itself, but my heart seems to still be running wildly in the vast mountains, enjoying the moment of tranquility brought by the solitude of the mountains, and the indescribable beauty, immersed in it for a long time, unable to extricate myself. …
Picture source for this article: Chen Lu, Lilly, Nadia, Xiaofan, Mr. Xiao Bao, etc.
Before I prepared to climb this snow-capped mountain, I didn’t know the name of the mountain or its specific location. When I finally stood on the top of the snow-capped mountains and looked at the snow-capped mountains, I thought I would always remember this place, this mountain, this group of people, and even our laughter. .
Life is essentially rushing forward. We cannot guess or understand what this step ahead is, but we can make a plan for ourselves to go with certain people on a certain day, month and year. Climbing a snow-capped mountain, you will be surprised to find that the mountain not only has height, but also has more surprises.
The four people successfully formed a team and left as soon as they said they wanted.
When it comes to playing this game, I essentially have no idea. I always follow others, and this time is no exception. When Nadia announced her plan on WeChat Moments, I said without hesitation that I would join because the successful summit of Siguniang Mountain in June made me truly feel the charm of the snow-capped mountains. When I saw that I was going to climb the snow-capped mountains, I I thought I couldn't miss it, so together with Lilly and Xiaofan, the four of us successfully formed a team, and an easy-to-go trip to Haba Snow Mountain began.
It can be said that the four of us have different personalities. Nadia is a very friendly and enthusiastic person. She is responsible for the entire planning of this trip. At the same time, because of her excellent driving skills, she also works as a full-time driver. It can be said that she is the hardest working person this time, but She should also enjoy it. I remember she said something from the bottom of her heart before, "I like driving very much" . I really don't know what kind of relationship she has with cars.
We didn't know Lilly before. She is Nadia's friend and former colleague. We didn't know much about her, but we found her easy to get along with when we first met. The most important reason is that I think people who like the outdoors will have a warm heart. Throughout the trip, she often shared the beautiful scenery she saw through video with her son who stayed at home. I joked to Nadia, "She really goes out to play by herself and leaves her son at home. She also teases her son in front of her son through videos and photos. She breaks her son's heart again and again" .
From left to right: Lilly, Nadia, Xiaofan
We met Xiaofan very early and didn’t talk much. We went to participate in the Huanglong cross-country race together that year. During the entire trip, didn't seem to see how excited he was, and of course I didn't see how disappointed he was. Anyway, I never saw through him to see what kind of person he was. The only thing that impressed me deeply is that this time he left a deep "imprint" at an altitude of nearly 5,000 meters. It will probably take a long time for his scent to be integrated into this huge mountain.
As for me, I am curious enough about places I have never been to, and I remain pious about mountains I have never visited in person. As for the distant places, I look forward to seeing a different light while chasing them. During this journey, I sincerely thank the three of you for accompanying me. It is because of the four of us that the journey was not lonely, and we were able to witness the most beautiful scenery on the snow-capped mountains at an altitude of 5396 meters!
Day1 Nanjing-Lijiang: Departure
Due to the cancellation of the previously scheduled flight, we temporarily rescheduled our flight to the afternoon of September 17th. Speaking of flight cancellations, this time it was very strange. All three scheduled flights were canceled without reason. We all speculated that it was because there were too few people on the flights. When we landed in Lijiang and entered the ancient city of Lijiang, we also realized that our guesses were well-founded. of.
Lijiang Old Town, which used to be crowded with people, now seems a little deserted, and many shops seem to have closed their doors to thank customers. The impact of the epidemic on cities that focus on tourism is still very large.
Later, when we ate at a well-known local Yunnan restaurant, the waiter also said that the daily turnover could reach 50,000-60,000 yuan, but now it is only more than 10,000 yuan, and sometimes even less.
The impact on the Haba villagers is also obvious. In the past, they could rely on the mountains to eat and earn a lot of income by working as guides. However, due to the impact of the epidemic, many people no longer come to climb mountains. In the past, many foreigners would come to Haba for skiing every year, but they can’t come now either. As a result, there were not many guests who came to climb this time.
The plane landed at nearly 8 o'clock in the evening, and the sky in Lijiang was not completely dark yet, so I felt a little bit excited for no reason. From Nanjing to Lijiang, from the city of fraternity to the city of romantic encounters, this magical transformation only takes more than two hours in modern society. Maybe it was because I hadn't been out and about for a long time, but the moment the plane landed, I rekindled my infinite curiosity about the outside world.
This is my first time to come to Lijiang. It is not much different from what I imagined. As a very mature tourist city, it does not seem to be much different from other cities. It is just that the temperature is more suitable. Walking on the streets of Lijiang at night, my whole body feels like Able to float. The gentle wind blows in my ears. If I occasionally see a passerby wearing traditional Yunnan costumes, I will take a second look. Bright colors are the characteristics of Yunnan traditional costumes. I think only bright colors can match this flower-filled city!
Since we arrived in the evening, we needed to stay in Lijiang for one night and then set off to Haba Village the next day. The four of us were looking for something to eat as soon as we arrived in Lijiang, and finally chose Yunnan’s traditional mushroom hotpot. I remember the first time I had mushroom hotpot was in Kunming at the end of last year. It was deeply memorable to me at that time. The four of us devoured our food and laughed from time to time. I suddenly realized that we had arrived in Lijiang from Nanjing. This was destined to be a wonderful journey!
Day2 Lijiang-Haba Village: starting point
Every time I go to an untouched city, I am eager to run around, and this time in Lijiang is no exception. Although I felt a little tired in the morning, I still got up. There were not many pedestrians on the streets of Lijiang in the morning, but cars were coming and going in the middle of the road. My plan was to run around Dayan Ancient Town (of which Lijiang Ancient Town is part).
On the road, I occasionally see people wearing Yunnan's distinctive ethnic costumes and carrying baskets. I will look at them a few times, wondering where they are going, whether they are going to catch the early market or to pick fresh mushrooms in the mountains.
Every city has its own character. What I feel about Lijiang is that it is a quiet corner. Although it is called the "city of romantic encounters", it is not that flashy. In the mottled colors of the ancient city, it has a touch of simplicity and peace. .
Our main itinerary on this day is from Lijiang to Haba Village, to the starting point of climbing Haba Snow Mountain. Although it is only a short distance of more than 100 kilometers, we all know that we need to pay attention to the mountain roads along the way.
For people in the mountains, a road leading to the outside is wealth. Haba Village has long had access to the outside world, but like other roads in the mountains, it needs constant repairs. Either landslides have cut off the road, or the road has collapsed. This situation is very common, and because of this, it is difficult to drive to Haba Village. The road was not smooth sailing, but thanks to the experienced driver Nadia, we didn’t encounter any big trouble along the way.
But sometimes she may be too vigilant. Seeing a car approaching from the opposite side, Nadia stops the car very far away and signals the other person to pass first. This kind of overly condescending quality sometimes makes me feel very surprised. I guess even the person on the other side of the road is surprised. The drivers were all confused, wondering where the driver Bodhisattva came from!
Sometimes I want to drive it myself, but I have had a driver's license for many years and am already unfamiliar with the steering wheel, let alone on such a mountainous road, so I can only hold the words in my heart and criticize myself.
But no matter what, safety comes first, and we follow these four words from beginning to end. In this way, even if there is no car on the road, we are all very vigilant. Sometimes a big truck passes by, and the dust in the sky is like a strong wind sweeping through the desert. We are all lucky that we are in the car and there are no gaps in the windows of our car.
On the way, we visited the Tiger Leaping Gorge. I still haven’t figured out why it’s called the Tiger Leaping Gorge. The river surged and formed a steep slope in one part of the canyon, so it gathered greater energy and roared downstream. . Several of us unanimously agreed that if anyone jumped into such a torrent, he would basically die.
Where did it end up flowing? I didn’t go into it. I’m just such a person. Why do I need to understand everything? When I don’t understand, I can still say I don’t understand. Wait until you understand everything. There will be no more secrets.
When we left, Tiger Leaping Gorge still maintained its momentum, and there were still tourists stopping to admire it. We come from the water, and we stand by the water to appreciate ourselves. While admiring it, we will also think wildly. If we jump in, will we turn into water and return to our original appearance, or will we turn into stone and become indestructible? symbol.
I don’t know the answers to these, and I don’t care. What I care about is how far this mountain road is, what the legendary Haba Village looks like, and what we are going to eat tonight.
Day3 Haba Village-Haba Snow Mountain Base Camp: Midway
When we arrived at Haba Village the night before, the guide’s family and three guests who had arrived earlier were waiting for us to have dinner. The seven of us were the only guests during the Mid-Autumn Festival. Haba Village is similar to what I imagined. It is located between mountains. It is quiet and peaceful, without any hustle and bustle. The villagers I occasionally see have plateau red on their faces, and they will occasionally smile at you to express goodwill.
That night, the host prepared a sumptuous yak hotpot for the seven of us, which is said to be the highest level of courtesy. It's just that the yak was pickled, so I didn't like it. It was too salty, so that night I just ate some vegetables, but I felt satisfied. After cleaning up that night, I went to bed early. I seemed to have a sweet dream that night. In fact, I forgot that I was in the middle of the dream.
The hat in the middle is Mr. Bao, and he is also my guide.
When I woke up the next day, the light came in through the wooden window, and the strong light was a bit dazzling. Before coming to Haba Village, we have been paying attention to the weather here. If the weather is bad, even if we climb to the last peak, we will seem to have no interest. The most beautiful scenery will obviously be obscured by the rain. covered. But fortunately, the weather has been good these two days, even the guide Xiaobao always said so. On this day we will officially set off for the Haba Snow Mountain Base Camp to prepare for the summit push the next day.
Before the official departure, Xiaobao took us to a stream at the foot of the mountain to worship the mountain god and the dragon king. The mountain god controls the mountains and rivers here, and the dragon king controls the water sources here. For the people here, the mountains and water nourish us. Generation after generation, this place has been able to continue for generations to enjoy the delicacies brought by the mountains and water.
On the way from Haba Village to Haba Snow Mountain Base Camp, there are actually beautiful scenery, virgin forests, towering old trees, vast grasslands... exactly as I imagined. As we continue to move upward, we are getting closer and closer to the blue sky and white clouds, and it seems that we are getting closer and closer.
Ever since I went to Huanglong and Siguniang Mountain that year, I have never forgotten the scenery of the plateau. The most beautiful scenery is at high places. This has become more and more a truth. It is not cold at high places, but when you really come to high places, you You will realize that high places are the treasures of the most beautiful scenery.
Halfway through, we adjusted and rested in a wooden house. Several guides in the house lit a fire and started to boil hot water. Everyone sat in a circle and enjoyed the leisure time. Here I tried yak cheese for the first time in my life. It was sour. I drank butter tea here for the first time. I forgot the specific taste... We will experience the first time in many things, but we can remember it in the end. Maybe not many.
Human beings are good at forgetting, maybe it’s not that they are good at it, but the storage capacity in each person’s brain is limited, just like a U disk with a limited capacity, so we have to pick out the most important ones and store them, but who knows which one is the most important? ? In the end, everyone will have some useless garbage stored in their head to a greater or lesser extent.
There are some things that we cannot choose. What we experience most in life is encountering them unexpectedly. We store memories just like our clothes. Although there are many clothes that we no longer wear, we are always reluctant to throw them away, so we accumulate more and more. The more I have, the less I know which one to throw away in the end.
After arriving at the base camp, Haba Snow Mountain was right in front of us. Looking up from below, we could clearly see the snow and the peak on the mountain, and we couldn't help but jump up for joy.
This place is undoubtedly a paradise, and the base camp is much better than I imagined. Not only does it have electricity, but there is also a place to soak your feet. After dinner in the evening, seven of us went to soak our feet. Everyone seemed tired, but they looked tired while soaking. More tired.
Tomorrow will be our summit day. At this moment, the moon outside is as bright as jade, and the outline of Haba Snow Mountain is clearly visible. It is so quiet, but so cold. After soaking our feet, several of us rushed into our sleeping bags at the same time.
This is my first time staying at the base camp. Only after experiencing it can I know everything. Whether it is sweet or sour or bitter, I think it is a good experience. It’s just that after soaking my feet, the soles of my feet were so hot that I couldn’t stand it all night. I didn’t sleep well, but luckily, Haba Snow Mountain was right next to me!
Day4 Haba Snow Mountain Base Camp-Peak-Haba Village: Summit Climb
At about three o'clock in the morning, we set off from the base camp and headed straight to the top of Haba Snow Mountain. At this moment, the moon is still as bright as jade, but it has changed its direction. There are many more stars in the sky, fewer than I imagined. The sky full of stars I expected did not come true.
Our large group of people, wearing headlamps, gave me the illusion that we were participating in a cross-country night race, but we were indeed just hiking. At high altitude, every step was actually more difficult, and today we need to keep going up. Climbing more than 1,200 meters and needing to climb nearly 200 meters while wearing crampons is perhaps the biggest challenge. But the charm of snow-capped mountains is often like this. If you do it easily, the snow-capped mountains will lose their charm. This may be the case with anything.
The entire climbing process is roughly divided into six sections, from the base camp at an altitude of 4050 meters to the stone slope at 4200 meters, then from the stone slope to the gravel slope at 4700 meters, and then from the gravel slope to the shelter stone at 4900 meters, and then from the shelter stone. Arriving at the Despair Slope at 5,200 meters, you will enter the snow line after the Despair Slope. You will first reach the Moon Bay at 5,320 meters, and finally reach the peak at 5,396 meters. This is an almost U-shaped route, and each route seems to be included in it.
Schematic diagram of climbing to the top of Haba Snow Mountain
In fact, among the entire route, there is no doubt that the most surprising thing is after the snow line. This is the core of climbing the snow mountain. This section is called the Despair Slope. I think there are two reasons. First, the slope is relatively large, and second, the snow is deep enough. The climbing process is enough to prove this kind of despair. Almost everyone follows suit and moves forward slowly. OK.
Not far ahead of us was the peak. It seemed within reach, but it was not easy. We were breathing heavily and taking one step at a time. Behind us is a long line of snow and next to it are cliffs. The best news for us is that the weather today is exceptionally good and there is almost no wind. Xiao Bao always said that this is a rare occasion. good weather. Nadia’s previous attempt to climb the second peak of Siguniang Mountain failed due to bad weather, and she still thinks about it.
Lilly and I both said that our luck was pretty good, and Nadia would definitely be able to reach the summit with our good luck this time. In fact, when we reached the snow line, I confirmed that we could all reach the summit. If we can’t reach the top in such good weather, I think we are really deceiving ourselves and others by talking about the next snow mountain.
What kind of scenery can be engraved in your heart? I think there are only clear skies and the scenery on the snow-capped mountains. There is nothing more majestic than the snow-capped mountains, and nothing more swaying than sitting on equal footing with the white clouds.
This is the second time I have been to the top of a snow-capped mountain. Unlike the first time when there were only two people on the top, this time we were a group of people. We took photos, videos, group photos, and looked into the distance... As I write this, In fact, I'm at a loss for words. I don't have the right words to describe it. The beauty is too ordinary, and the stunningness is too flashy. Perhaps it is most appropriate to appreciate it silently and then keep it in mind. Some things really cannot be shared. Only by experiencing them can you understand!
What does climbing a snowy mountain mean to a person? Why do so many people want to climb snow-capped mountains? Here I still have to borrow the words of the British explorer Mallory, "because it is there" , because it is there!
In the end, a group of us all climbed to the top of the peak and saw the scenery we longed to see. Although we were tired, we didn’t seem to be very happy, but I knew that in our hearts, we had already silently cherished this great river and mountain. It is engraved in our hearts and becomes our own life wealth.
Mountains never meet, but people always meet. In this strange place, a group of people meeting for the first time get along very harmoniously. Under the laughter and laughter, there is another parting. Life is like this, you will meet different people in each period. Some people have not really understood them yet, and they have become a point in the memory before they are added to WeChat. So, see you on the next mountain!
Day5 Haba Village-Lijiang-Nanjing: Ending
It was close to 7 o'clock when we returned to Haba Village from the peak. The sky was still bright. The four of us all looked a little tired. People who came down from the base camp did not say much. Instead, they would ask from time to time, "How far are we from Haba?" How far is the village?".
At this moment, our thoughts were the same, we just wanted to lie down on the soft bed and breathe quietly. The beautiful scenery earlier obviously could no longer stimulate us.
After eating, we lay down one after another. For Nadia and Lilly, this journey has obviously been fruitful. Their WeChat Moments are filled with beautiful scenery, and they always send a WeChat Moment wherever they go. Sometimes I don’t understand why they send a Moment Moment from time to time.
Later, I also understood that this actually has a lot to do with each person's personality. People who like to post on WeChat are actually more cheerful, open, and talkative. They like to share their joy. I don’t know if their friends have reaped this joy, but I can predict that their friends have been intoxicated by these beautiful scenery, and they must have cast envious eyes on them, and their hearts may be full of questions, "Why She can wander around the world”?
We rested one night and returned to Lijiang from Haba Village the next day. In fact, our original plan was to go to Dali, but due to flight cancellations, we had to return to Nanjing early the next morning. We unanimously canceled the trip to Dali.
In fact, it is a bit regretful. After all, in our earlier understanding, Dali is a magical existence, and the Duan family in "Dragon and the Eight Parts" has long been famous. Furthermore, the song "Going to Dali" sings "It's better to go all the way west to Dali" . We didn't arrive, and obviously we don't know what Dali has and why we want to go to Dali!
In fact, it doesn’t matter if you have some regrets. If one journey is perfect, your expectations for the next journey will become harsh. Nadia said, you must know how to be satisfied. But I could tell that she especially wanted to drive to Dali in one go. In her words, it was only over 100 kilometers from Lijiang to Dali, and the entire journey was at high speed, all it took was one step on the accelerator.
After thinking about it, it was better not to go, lest Nadia would be too tired, and we couldn't squeeze out a kind driver like this. So, the four of us spent a Mid-Autumn Festival in Lijiang and ate all the food on the table. We were all really hungry. Actually, another regret is that we haven’t had a drink in the past few days. If people know that we are going to Lijiang, wouldn’t it be a joke!
After dinner, we walked into the ancient city of Lijiang again. The ancient city at night coincided with the Mid-Autumn Festival. There were many more people than during the day. Everyone raised their mobile phones to take pictures of the full moon in the sky, as if they were captured on their phones. reunion.
The resident singer in a house not far away was singing a song with high spirits. I had heard it before, but I couldn't remember the specific title. We did not go into these bars, because the colorful lights made me feel that there was nothing special here, but it lost some of the flavor of the ancient city.
When ancient cities and towns are infinitely connected to modern society, you will find that they will all become much the same. When I first walked into Lijiang Old Town, I had the illusion that I was in Nanjing Confucius Temple or Laomendong.
The characteristics of every ancient city and town are gradually disappearing. This is not the so-called great integration, but a kind of passing away. Just like when we see Yiwu small commodities wherever we go, we are not surprised. But when we are no longer curious about a place, what is the meaning of those pavilions, those mottled stone roads, and those people in the moon mirror?
I still remember that after returning to the base camp from the top of the mountain, Nadia, Lilly, and Xiaofan expressed their intention to take mules down the mountain. Unfortunately, the few mules available had already been booked. The three people who were so confident at first looked so unconfident at that moment. Looking at the tiredness written on their faces, I realized that they might say something predictable.
Sure enough, both Nadia and Lilly said they would never climb a snow mountain again, and they would never come back again. Why should people not make decisions easily when they are impulsive? Because the decision made under such circumstances is usually just a slap in the face and is not correct.
In the past, when I was going cross-country, I would often say that I would never sign up again, but when I felt energetic the next day, I would start planning. So, when the two of them said this, I just listened and didn't take it seriously. Of course, as expected, on the way back to Lijiang the next day, they started planning the next snow mountain. What about jade beads? Peaks, Nama Peak, Meili Snow Mountain, even worse, Mount Everest, bah!
I particularly like the sentence on the summit medal that Xiaobao always gives us - Explorers always have one more world than others.
So, where is the next snow mountain? I think only time can give the most correct answer.
Haba Snow Mountain is still like its name, like golden flowers, shining among the mountains, guarding this vibrant land!
Goodbye, Haba Village! Goodbye, Haba Snow Mountain!
Tips: Finally, I would like to thank Nadia, the hardest-working driver and the little expert in paying for the whole journey, Lilly, who is arrogant in front of her son, Xiaofan, who is not talkative and cruel, and even more, thank you to Mr. Bao. We are protected by our family and their professional team, and we would like to thank our four guides Mr. Bao, Xiao Li, Zhicheng and Zaoren. A safe departure and safe return is the best destination for a journey.
