Island Travel Notes｜Exploring the historical sites of Fucheng and looking for Anping delicacies

This is ’s second trip alone! The first time was from Wuhan to Xi'an in May this year, and this time it was from Taichung to Tainan.

Traveling alone is a way of solitude across space. The advantage of it is that you don’t have to coordinate time with your companions, cater to your preferences, and stop and go according to your mood. But its shortcoming is that you need to pay extra attention to safety.

The first experience of being alone in a strange place was probably when I went to Wuxi Lingshan Giant Buddha during the summer vacation of my second year of junior high school. I had been to Lingshan Giant Buddha when I graduated from elementary school, and I didn’t go in again the second time. . Take a Bluetooth speaker to the nearby woods and take a camera to take pictures of butterflies and dragonflies on a deserted forest path. It’s like time has stopped here. On the same trip, in the evening of the next day, I was near Songcheng and came across some European-style palaces, such as A Wonderland with No One . At that time, there was no navigation on the mobile phone, so I could not know what the scenery in front of me was, but I could observe the scenery in front of me more deeply.

Alone on the Taiwan Railway

Why Tainan? After planning everything, I discovered that this trip had many similarities with Xi'an on May 1st.

First of all, Xi'an and Tainan are both historical and cultural ancient cities. Xi'an was the ancient capital of thirteen dynasties. Since the Dutch entered Taiwan more than 300 years ago (1624), and for more than 200 years since then, Tainan has been Taiwan's political center .

Taiwan History Museum in Tainan

Secondly, the places I chose to stay in these two destinations were B&Bs where I stayed with the host. This way of accommodation that integrates with the locals gives me a unique accommodation experience as a solo traveler. Interact with local people and learn more about their living habits. The owner of the B&B we stayed in Tainan this time was a young couple who had a cute little son. When I first arrived downstairs, they happened to be at the 7-11. I was surprised that they didn't buy dinner until nine o'clock, but the little boy was still in the living room at eleven o'clock. It can be seen that Taiwanese people have a habit of going to bed late since childhood.

This ticket left me when I left the station.

Finally, because I have always heard that Tainan is “very delicious”, this is very attractive to me as a foodie^ ^

Tainan can satisfy my preferences for history and food at the same time, so choosing it is a must!

This semester, I took the course "Taiwan History". Before the midterm exam, I read some literature and three or four reference books, and I realized that I had such a limited understanding of Taiwan’s history. But seeing is better than hearing , so this time I came to see Taiwan’s historical sites.

Most of the students studied Taiwan history in middle school, so the teacher often A word of But the "Zelandia Fortress", "Anping" and "Luermen" mentioned by the teacher often made me dizzy. Can't tell where they are.

Remains of the ancient city wall of Relanja City

Relanje City (now Anping Castle) is a fortress built by the Dutch in Taiwan (founded in 1624). It is the center of the Dutch rule of Taiwan. In 1662, after Zheng Chenggong captured the city of Relanja, the Zheng dynasty also lived here. He missed his hometown of Anping and renamed the original city of Relanzha to "Anping Town".

After the Qing Dynasty took over, the city was gradually abandoned and turned into ruins during the war.

Now there are only ruins left

The ancient cannon is well preserved

Here, listening to the Hokkien-speaking tour guide is very friendly and comfortable. The tour guide told about the treaty negotiated between the Dutch and Zheng Chenggong, which preserved the national dignity of the Dutch and allowed them to take away what belonged to them.

It would be beneficial for both parties to make concessions.

The names here are so diverse that it's easy to get confused. To be honest, I didn’t know this was the city of Relanja before I bought the ticket. I wonder if the Anping Castle was built by the Zheng family. When I came in, I found out that it was the city of Relanja, which was a pleasant surprise. There is also a observation tower, where you can observe the surrounding situation through the window.

Anping is now an administrative district of Tainan. As mentioned above, Zheng changed the name of the city of Relanzha to "Anping Town" because he missed his hometown, and the nearby area was Anping. The next afternoon, I walked around Anping for a long time. Almost no ruins from the Ming and Zheng Dynasties exist anymore, and most of the remaining are from the Qing Dynasty .

Haishan Pavilion

The dormitory of Qing soldiers stationed in Anping during the Qing Dynasty

This architectural style looks very "Qing Dynasty" at first glance! The architecture was very similar to the clothing colors of Qing Dynasty ministers, so I made an association. There is a cute "evil-warding" door god and a painted wall outside the entrance, adding a bit of interest to this otherwise serious place.

After the signing of the "Tianjin Treaty" and the "Beijing Treaty", Anping was opened as a treaty port, and many foreign businessmen came to Taiwan to do business. They set up foreign companies in different places on a country-by-country basis , which is equivalent to the current "International Trading Company".

German Business Dongxing Foreign Trade Co., Ltd.

Dongxing Yangxing is a Fujian and Western mixed style building, which combines the architectural styles of southern Fujian and foreigners.

British Business Morality Book

Among the foreign firms in Anping, the British ones account for the most. This is one of them, now located in the Anping Tree House Scenic Area. The tour guide said this is the most beautiful Western-style building in Anping, but I prefer the style of Dongxing Yangxing. Probably because I am from southern Fujian.

I'm not sure if the building not far away is the result of the renovation of Hutchison Company, so I won't post the picture~

Anping also has some buildings from the Japanese colonial period.

During the Japanese occupation, the Japanese opened some salt fields in Anping. This dormitory is a Japanese-style building that looks like a private residence, some distance from the salt field. I speculate that this was the residence of the Japanese who managed the saltworks. (After verification, it is the residence of high-level personnel of Taiwan Salt) So what is the place where the real salt people live ?

I found the answer next to the Anshun Saltworks site (Annan District).

16 houses in the old Yanmin settlement

The buildings where Yan residents live are located next to the salt fields. They are dormitories of the same type located side by side. The facilities of that time cannot be seen now, only the empty houses and house numbers remain.

Anshun Salt Farm (discontinued in 1994)

Taiwan’s first salt production industrial zone

There is also a famous attraction near Anping Castle - Anping Tree House . It was originally the warehouse of Tak Kee & Co., and was later used by the Japanese. Here you can see the amazing growth speed and growth posture of the banyan tree. Many artists create here, and the ecological environment is also very good.

On the viewing platform, the tree house is integrated

The origin of the name Luermen is said to be because The terrain resembles a deer's ear .then Luermen Port Road is a dangerous place , wide and shallow, ships are prone to run aground and difficult to land, so it is called “The natural barrier of the city” When Zheng Chenggong arrived, it was high tide and he went on stage smoothly.

Luermen Port where Zheng Chenggong took the stage

There is a Zhenmen Palace next to it, which looks a bit dilapidated because no one has repaired it. There are images of two Dutch door gods on the Zhenmen Palace, guarding Anping Town for Zheng Chenggong.

Luermen is located in today's Annan District. When I first came to Annan, I wanted to go to the "Taiwan Amazon" Sicao Tunnel. There were just too many people, so they took a look at the mangroves and left.

Mangroves line both sides of the river

When I found out that this was Taijiang Ecological Cultural Park (I was sleeping on the bus and didn’t pay much attention), I decided to continue going.

There was no one on the road, only a few vehicles passing by. I headed forward under the scorching sun, preparing to go to Yantian Cultural Village (Anshun Salt Farm). At this time, an uncle riding a motorcycle kept looking back at me. At first I was surprised. Later he came back and asked me where I was going. I told my destination. He said it was a long walk and he took me there along the way. I got in the car. Later he sent me there and left.

When I left the salt field, another uncle spotted me. He asked me why I was alone. He can give me a ride. I asked him if he was on his way, and he said yes. I got in the car again.

In Wanwan, motorcycles are really a very convenient means of transportation. Abel calls me a backpacker. He introduced Luermen and Anping to me. Asked me which places I hadn’t gone to yet, and he took me there. We went to Fucheng Tianxuan, Luermen Tianhou Temple, Notre Dame Temple...

The distant scenic spots on the map are connected together into a cultural exploration route for tourists under the warm hospitality of the locals.

Walking alone on the road in Taijiang, I often see birds landing on the wetlands, as if they are enjoying the unique good weather.

There are many temples in Tainan. Each one amazes me more than the other The old man said that because it was the New Year, the temple had just been rebuilt. I was curious about the relationship between the Luermen Tianhou Temple and other Tianhou Temples, so he helped me get a guide booklet. We also went to the Holy Mother Temple. He said that originally, you had to take a long detour to get between the two temples, but now The bridges built on both sides of the river make travel much more convenient . More people are going there. Transportation is indeed an indispensable condition for sightseeing! Speaking of communication, he said, "The two sides of the Taiwan Strait should communicate more! We are all one family." Maybe we are exchange students. Building an invisible bridge between the two sides Bar ^ ^

There are also monuments in the city center, which is probably one of the characteristics of historic city. Just like my hometown of Quanzhou, the bustling West Street is home to the East and West Towers from the Tang and Song Dynasties. In the ancient city of Xi'an, city walls and bustling commercial districts coexist.

Exhibition of Works of Taiwanese Female Poets

This is an exhibition of works outside the Taiwan Literature Museum. This kind of exhibition makes the occasional passers-by unable to help but stop. The Taiwan Literature Museum located in the city center was rebuilt from the former Tainan State Office (during the Japanese colonial period) .

I have visited the Taichung Literature Museum next to the University of Chinese Education before, which was also renovated from a Japanese-occupied building . Renovation of old buildings seems to have become popular. When you first entered the museum, you saw an introduction to the renovation process of the old building.

"A Journey of Taiwanese Literature" The sub-exhibition areas introduce the characteristics of literature and its background conditions in different periods according to the theme. There is also a section in the Taichung Literature Museum. Long timeline The two sides introduce the nodes of literary development and major world events. The close relationship between literature and social environment .

There are also many manuscripts by literati in the exhibition area. They are written with scratches and crosses, and some even have big X's. It seems that it is difficult to complete a literary work in one go. I still remember that in a composition class in elementary school, the teacher told us to "do it in one go." It is difficult for literati, let alone us who are still learning to write?

Only by pondering over and over again can we produce a masterpiece.

Timeline of the development of Taiwanese literature

Not far from the Literature Museum is The first school in Taiwan—— Tainan Confucius Temple This is Taiwan The first Confucius Temple In an inconspicuous place in front of the gate, there is a monument for civil and military officials to dismount. It is written in both Manchu and Chinese, expressing the respect of civil and military officials for Confucius.

Fortunately, it happened to be on display at the Zheng Chenggong Museum recently. Imperial plaques of eight Qing emperors . Let me share my favorite piece - "Teacher of All Ages" written by Emperor Kangxi.

Opposite the Confucius Temple is the Confucius Temple business district. There is a "Pan Palace" archway at the entrance of the business district. Pan Palace was the highest institution of learning in the Western Zhou Dynasty. There is also Pan Palace next to the Confucius Temple in Quanzhou, my hometown. I often pass by Pan Palace, but never thought about its connection with the Confucius Temple. Thinking about it this way, it seems to be related.

On the way to Zheng Chenggong Cultural Relics Museum (including Yanping Prince Temple), I found a stone statue of Zheng Chenggong riding a white horse. Later, the volunteer uncle in the museum introduced that the stone statue was made of Quanzhou granite and was given to this place by Quanzhou people, which instantly made me feel more cordial.

Statue of Zheng Chenggong that looks like Daping Mountain

I introduced myself to the volunteer uncle, and he told me the history of Taiwan and explained all my doubts in class.

turn out to be Different people give different historical meanings to the same thing , just because of the Different stance Interestingly, Zheng Chenggong is a national hero in all periods. Less than two years , but it can have such a great influence, which is amazing.

The cultural relics museum is beautifully restored

This shows the admiration of later generations for Zheng Chenggong

The names of the five concubines will remain in history

Before dinner, we stopped by Wu Fei Temple . According to records, when Shi Lang attacked Taiwan, Prince Ningjing of the Ming Dynasty Zhu Shugui was determined to die for his country. His five concubines decided to live and die with their husbands, so they hung themselves from beams in Prince Ningjing's palace one after another. It can be seen that the ancients were loyal and loyal.

The palace of Prince Ningjing at that time is now the "Grand Palace of the Queen of Heaven"

Official ceremonies are held twice a year

I was busy praying and forgot to take pictures^ ^

Not far from the Grand Thean Hou Temple, next to the bustling street is the Red Chian Tower. What is this place? This was originally a defensive fortress built by the Dutch to resist foreign invasion . Also known as "Prominent City", it was once the commercial center of Taiwan. Today, only some ruins remain, including most temples built later on the castle. Among them, there are many "admittance tickets" for students to pray for in Wenchang Pavilion.

Penghu Academy Ruins

It’s hard to see the original appearance anymore

On the basis of these classical relics, modern people's "art of transformation" is integrated. In the blending and collision of classical and modern , how many historical elements can we still see? What about trace ?

On the streets of Taichung, you can often see the words "Tainan Food", and my classmates also told me that Tainan is a city of food. So what did I eat in Tainan?

Friendly reminder: Late night readers, please evacuate quickly^ ^

Old shop’s beef brisket soup and pork rice

Braised pork rice is braised pork rice. The beef brisket soup is added with coriander, red and white radish, and pickled mustard (please make up your own mind about the flavor combination^ ^). It's quite light, but it doesn't feel amazing. When drinking soup in Tainan, you will be given dipping sauce for dipping the meat. This dipping sauce is not bad. Other dipping sauces usually come with shredded ginger, so its dipping sauce is quite special.

Ah Ming Pig Heart Rice Noodles

Google Map told me that it opens at five o'clock. When I arrived at five o'clock, the queue was already very long. It took about forty minutes to get the soup. I ordered the mixed soup (pork heart, pork liver, and pork loin) which tastes great without any dipping sauce. Completelyno fishy smell, pork loin is the best. Crunchy, probably a unique texture after being chilled. While waiting, I saw the clerk bringing a lot of offal to the chef (open kitchen), and I was thinking, Where can I raise so many pigs? Ingredients are provided every day.

The C position is probably A Ming

Tainan Wuming Douhua (branch)

Although it is a branch, there are still many nostalgic decorations in the store. It feels like you are in the era when the founders lived forty or fifty years ago. I ordered barley bean curd, which was pretty good. It would be better if you could add whatever you want. It turns out that Biandang Douhua is the predecessor of Wumingdouhua, so I also drank "Wumingdouhua" when I was a child~

Braised rice noodles

Uncle took me to the bustling Guohua Street in the center of Anping. He said he would treat me to lunch and let me choose a store by myself. I saw that there were fewer people in this store and I was more interested in it, so I came in. .

At first we all ordered braised noodles, but then I saw that there were rice noodles, and Abo helped me change it to rice noodles. It was so delicious that I was left with nothing but soup. This meat soup recipe is 10,000 times better than the one made by the little aunt in the cafeteria! (Maybe I'm hungry)

After eating rice noodles, Uncle helped me carry my schoolbag all the way. (Thank you^ ^Really heavy bag)

Oyster omelette in Anping Old Street

Anping Old Street is just a commercial snack street , but this one has a pretty high rating (mainly because it has a lot of food ). The oyster omelette in Taiwan is still a bit fishy. The oyster omelette made by my father is the most delicious (no objection~). The method here also adds cabbage, and the one in Quanzhou adds some pickled shredded white radish. Tishang handles it better.

In the end, I couldn't finish it and sent it to my mother. She said I would give it to her.

By the way, when we were in Tianxian, Fucheng, Uncle pointed me to the oyster field not far away where oysters are raised. He said the oysters raised there were of the best quality.

What classmate Li said is a must-eat in Tainan

The taste of this beef soup is as delicious as the one made by dad^ ^

(I grew up drinking my dad’s beef soup~)

Thick-cut dried meat with seaweed flavor

After eating braised rice noodles, I took a walk with Uncle on Guohua Street. He saw the thick-cut jerky and asked me if I had eaten it. I originally said we had dried pork, but later I found out it was different. We started trying various flavors and he asked about the prices. 200 units per pack (I couldn’t bear to buy it myself~) He asked me which flavor I liked, and I said seaweed. He bought it for me!

Sigh again : Arbor people are so nice! Take me to play, treat me to tea, buy me souvenirs, treat me to dinner. Worried that I would not be able to return to Taichung in time , I was sent early to Anping Old Street, which is convenient for traveling by bus and sightseeing.

During the conversation, I also gained a deeper understanding of Taiwan's social culture, and he patiently answered many of my questions.

But when they parted, they did not leave any contact information with each other. He said that he often met backpackers and suggested that I use a bicycle for future travel. He happens to come out every Sunday.

I thought to myself: How lucky I am!

One thing I insist on doing in Taiwan is marking places on the map. The yellow ones are the places have been to , and the green ones are the places want to go .

In just two days, I was very satisfied to be able to go to so many places.

All the way south, across the Tropic of Cancer

Fortunately, I happened to capture "water" when I took the photo.

On the Taiwan Railway, my seat neighbors changed to two people. The first one is a middle-aged man in a suit and tie. He seems to be preparing for an exam. It turns out that you have to face exams when you enter society. Exams are not just for students. When I went to the bathroom, I was replaced by a sister. She didn't like the sunlight outside the window, so she discussed with me to close the curtains. But I can still look out the window through the other side.

When leaving the station, there was a glitch in the ticketpinch. I told the staff that I really wanted that ticket, but they searched for it for a long time but couldn't find it. Fortunately, I took a photo of it in advance.

On the return trip, I can only buy tickets without seats. It is very convenient to buy tickets by yourself, and no ID card is required to buy tickets. As long as you have cash. I sat on the floor of the carriage, writing and listening to music. The person sitting next to me looked like a Southeast Asian laborer. Although he didn’t understand the language, he was full of kindness . When I couldn't open the bathroom door, they used gestures to tell me how to open it. When I came back and there wasn't enough space, they took the initiative to move a space for me.

The History Museum is just a "check in" .

After a 40-minute bus ride and a half-hour walk, I learned that it had been under renovation until Next July Just opened.

Taiwan map on the floor of the Museum of History

What is special about this map is that it removes the satellite images of the human landscape. Restore the surface form before human activities This is quite interesting, because the proportion of human scenes in current satellite images should be quite large. I am very curious about how it is restored.

After I left, I discovered that there was a direct bus, but after watching the "coming soon" message for a few minutes, it didn't come, so I chose to leave on foot.