Travel Notes | How many days did I stay in Chang’an?

 

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I have had countless fantasies about Xi'an. Six years ago, a good friend from high school entered Xi'an because of the word "Chang'an". She said that as soon as she got off the train, she looked up and saw the ancient city wall, which was very romantic. And I also met two very beautiful Xi'an girls in college, which surprised me. , what kind of environment and soil can raise such a literary but unconventional, courageous but tender girl.

 

One of them, when the Agricultural University still implemented the 11 o'clock access control system, took me downstairs at 10:50 to take pictures of the first snowfall. My feet were so cold that I lost feeling and still refused to return. During the physical test of the mountaineering team, I ran 8,000 meters alone on the playground. She passed by and ran three laps with me to help me. After the winter vacation of my freshman year, the press group reviewed each other's vacation photography assignments. The picture of Chang'an City Wall in the snow she shared once again refreshed my impression of Xi'an. From then on, I made an agreement with her to go to Xi'an to see her.

 

One day in January this year, after I woke up, I suddenly wanted to visit her in Xi'an to watch the snow, but I gave up because I didn't have my ID card with me. The snow melted and accumulated, and the grass and trees were deep. On the hottest and most crowded weekend, I finally got on the train to Xi'an before she left to study in the UK.

 

 

01

Forest of Steles

The white horse carrying scriptures is empty, and the ruins of broken monuments can be seen

—— Zhang Ji of the Tang Dynasty, "Staying at the White Horse Temple"

When I was a child, I studied calligraphy and read "Qianfu Temple in Xijing of the Tang Dynasty" over and over again in front of Yan Gong's calligraphy, imagining that one day I would be able to draw hair from my wrist as freely as the ancients. Since then, Xi'an Forest of Steles has been a pilgrimage site in my heart. This time I came to the Forest of Steles to look for familiar handwriting and fulfill my childhood dream.

"Duobao Pagoda Stele" · Yan Zhenqing's calligraphy is the earliest and most famous stele study in the world. Readers often start from this stele, and it is also the only one I have completely finished. post.

When I was a child, I took it for granted that the words on the stele should be the same size as those on the copybook, but I didn't expect that they were just one grid in a densely packed square. Although the characters are small, the writing is rigorous, dignified, varying in thickness, and full of momentum. Looking back at the memories that have been sealed for more than ten years, I am still astonished.

"Cao Quan Stele" · A representative work of official script in the Han Dynasty. It is famous for its graceful style and neat structure, and has been highly praised by calligraphers of past dynasties.

"The Stele of the Great View" · Written and written by Zhao Ji, Emperor Huizong of the Northern Song Dynasty, the calligraphy style is vigorous and graceful, tall and graceful, and is known as the "thin gold style" in the world.

Huairen collected "Wang Xi's Preface to the Holy Religion" · Introductory Notes in Running Script.

The Forest of Steles was built in the Northern Song Dynasty and was named after its numerous steles. The museum houses masterpieces of calligraphers such as Wang Xizhi, Ouyang Xun, Chu Suiliang, Yan Zhenqing, Liu Gongquan, Mi Fu, Zhao Ji and other calligraphers. Although it is named "Stele", it actually includes three parts: the former site of the Confucius Temple in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the Forest of Steles, and the Stone Carving Art Museum. Among them, the Stone Carving Art Museum contains four of the "Six Horses of Zhaoling" in China.

Xintong said that you must come to the Forest of Steles in the afternoon. I thought there would be special performances during this time. Only when you are there do you realize that the sunshine and the dense branches and leaves are the protagonists of this performance. It was a hot summer day, and the scorching sun shone in the courtyard of the Forest of Steles, but it was lazily following the breeze, stepping on the green bricks and disturbing the tombstones that had been silent for thousands of years on the corridor.

Bamboo slips are easy to rot, and paintings are difficult to preserve. No matter how grand the scale of the burial, it will inevitably become a treasure for future generations of tomb robbers. Most of the things that can truly belong to the owner of the tomb are only a bottle of an obelisk with their name and life engraved on it.

The hundreds of words on the monument must be the reflection of so many songs and tears. You said, is this permanent?

02

Daming Palace

 

The nine heavens closed the palace, and all the nations wore their hats and bowed their heads.

——Wang Wei of the Tang Dynasty, "The Early Dynasty of Daming Palace with the Jiashe People"

 

The layout of Chang'an City in the Tang Dynasty was inherited from the Sui Dynasty. The Taiji Palace of the Imperial Palace is located in the north of the city's central axis, with 108 squares spread out neatly throughout the city. Each square is equivalent to a small community. It is surrounded by earthen walls and has gates around it. It opens at sunrise and closes at sunset. It is home to the residents of Chang'an City.

The construction process in the documentary "Da Ming Palace"

The now-familiar Daming Palace was originally built by Taizong Li Shimin for the Supreme Emperor Li Yuan. Construction was suspended when Li Yuan died of illness. It was built again during the reign of Emperor Gaozong of the Tang Dynasty. It was built by hundreds of thousands of people and cost the tax revenue of fifteen states in the empire and one month's salary of officials at all levels in Chang'an. On the first day of the first lunar month in 663 AD, the Daming Palace became the new political center of the Tang Dynasty. From 880 AD, it was destroyed by the Huangchao Uprising and subsequent riots, and it survived for 222 years.

Liyuan singing and dancing in the documentary "Da Ming Palace"

The history of ancient Chinese architecture can also be said to be the history of changes in Dougong. In the Tang Dynasty, wooden building brackets were huge, and the overall architectural style was therefore more majestic and powerful. I once saw a large owl kiss in the Museum of Ancient Chinese Architecture, and I really couldn't imagine how grand the physical building must be. And in Daming Palace, I saw it.

The restoration of Danfeng Gate in the documentary "Da Ming Palace"

A distant view of the Danfeng Gate rebuilt today

Feel the size ratio between Danfeng Gate and tourists

The general city gate only has three doorways, but the Danfeng Gate has five. The main entrance of Daming Palace, Danfeng Gate, may be the largest gate in Chinese history. The main hall, Hanyuan Hall, is the most magnificent palace in Chinese history.

This was once the largest brick-and-wood structure palace complex in the world. Its area is equivalent to three Versailles Palaces, four Forbidden City, 12 Kremlin Palaces, 13 Louvre Museums, and 15 Versailles Palaces. This was once the imperial palace of the Tang Dynasty, the Daming Palace, and it is now a good place for Xi'an citizens to take walks and fly kites.

Looking at Danfeng Gate from Hanyuan Hall

I saw this kind of desolation in the Old Summer Palace. The Daming Palace is known as the Palace of Thousand Palaces, and the Old Summer Palace is also known as the "Garden of Ten Thousand Gardens". Nowadays, dust returns to dust, and dust returns to dust. The first time I went to the Old Summer Palace, I felt sorry for the empty foundation. This time I came to the Daming Palace, but I was very excited. From the foundation alone, I can still feel her extraordinary magnanimity in its heyday.

Hanyuan Hall · View of the main hall from Qifeng Pavilion on the right side of Hanyuan Hall. Hanyuan Hall is the main hall of Daming Palace, where national ceremonies and ceremonies are held. The restoration of the abutment reproduces the basic structure and layout of the site. The earthen remains of the Tang Dynasty are enclosed in masonry and preserved permanently.

Xuanzheng Hall · is located 300 meters north of Hanyuan Hall. It is the second largest main hall of Daming Palace and is used for regular dynasty and new affairs. It is the place where the emperor ascends the throne, canonizes the prince, and takes the imperial examination. Now, for some unknown reason, there are thin saplings planted on the platform and lush grass beside the trees.

Zichen Hall · In the distance is Zichen Hall, located to the north of Xuanzheng Hall. It is the northernmost of the three halls on the central axis of Daming Palace, because it is the farthest to the north. That is to say, it was the closest to the inner palace where the emperor lived, and was the most convenient for the emperor to go to court. Therefore, the Zichen Hall became the most important place for the emperor's daily work, and was called the main hall of the inner court.

Penglai Hall · In the distance is the foundation of Penglai Hall. Penglai Hall is located on the south bank of Taiye Lake to the north of Zichen Hall. It is one of the palaces where the emperor lived. Its name comes from the story of Penglai Fairy Island, which means longevity. Nearby is a reproduction of a famous painting. The famous "Lady with Hairpin Flowers" is said to have been painted by Zhou Fang in the Tang Dynasty .

The miniature landscape · truly restores the entire Daming Palace complex in the heyday of the Tang Dynasty at a scale of 1:15. Every brick and tile of all the buildings here is One beam and one building are built by hand, majestic yet deft.

Daming Palace Ruins Museum · The huge electronic picture scrolls through the spring, summer, autumn and winter of Daming Palace.

Daming Palace Ruins Museum · The scene of the Yuan Dynasty meeting in the Hanyuan Hall of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty. The Yuan Day Great Court Meeting in the Tang Dynasty originated from the ancient tribute system. The crown prince, civil and military officials, local envoys, and heads of envoys from various countries came here to congratulate the emperor on the new year.

Daming Palace Ruins Museum · The restored model of Linde Hall. Linde Hall is a group of cleverly configured and organically combined buildings. The front hall, middle hall, and back hall are connected in series, with Jingyun Pavilion at the top. Yuyi Tower, Jie Lin Tower, and Jie Lin Tower are symmetrically arranged on the east and west sides. The East Pavilion and the West Pavilion cover an area of ​​more than 5,000 square meters. Three thousand people can sit in front of the hall and under the corridors, and polo can be played in front of the hall. It is said to be the most complex large building complex in the Tang Dynasty architecture seen so far. Officials in the Tang Dynasty were proud to attend the Linde Hall banquet.

Daming Palace Ruins Museum · Polo map replica (if you want to see how people played polo in the Tang Dynasty, you can watch the first episode of "Da Ming Palace Ci" )

Daming Palace Ruins Museum · Women’s Life in the Tang Dynasty

At the end of the museum is the modern story of the site, where the past 1,400 years ago comes to an abrupt end.

Eleven years ago, Xi'an City began to protect and transform 19.16 square kilometers of the heritage area that was already a shanty town, demolish it entirely, and build a heritage park. The exhibition hall finally restored the old scene of the street before demolition.

The Tang Dynasty is recognized as one of the most powerful eras in China and also the last political glory of Xi'an. If you are also interested in this period of history, it is recommended to visit this site. There is no need to be too sentimental, the romantic Tang people have long understood that life is like a dream.

03

Shaanxi History Museum

 

Who by the river saw the moon for the first time? When did Jiang Yue shine on people?

——Tang·Zhang Ruoxu《Spring River Flower Moonlight Night》

 

If you only have one day to visit a city, you should go to a museum. "Underground cultural relics see Shaanxi", the Shaanxi History Museum made us get up at 6:30, and the queue was only half way at 10 o'clock. Finally, we gritted our teeth and spent 300 yuan to buy Tang Dynasty Mural Treasures Museum Tickets are the places where you can enter directly. (On the importance of becoming a “RMB player”!

Even RMB players cannot avoid the huge crowds.

Unique restroom signs in the museum

Shaanxi is one of the birthplaces of the Chinese nation and Chinese civilization. The vast history of Chinese civilization This land supports more than 1,100 years of history, and 83 emperors are buried there. The word "China" was born here, the Zhou people made rituals here, the Qinchi Road was spread out to the far reaches with Xianyang as the center, and the camel bells of the Silk Road were the starting point in the east. After the singing and dancing in the Tang Dynasty's wine shops fell silent for thousands of years, overseas Chinese areas are still called "Chinatowns". And Shaan Bo is naturally the best storyteller of this glorious period.

Statue of "Lantian Man" from the Paleolithic Age. Lantian Man was discovered in Gongwangling, Lantian County, Shaanxi Province in 1964, about 115 years ago. It is the earliest known Homo erectus in northern Asia. Lantian people can already use fire and make simple stone tools

Neolithic Age · Yangshao Pottery

Western Zhou Dynasty · Five-eared tripod with animal face pattern (are you here to show off your cuteness~)

Shang and Zhou Dynasties · Various bronzes

In the Spring and Autumn Period · the level of construction at that time can be seen from the tiles, pottery water channels, copper components in the building, and tube tiles.

Warring States Period · The Golden Duhu Talisman. Talisman is a special voucher used by the ancient court to convey orders and mobilize troops. Usually in the shape of a tiger, it is divided into left and right halves. The right half of the talisman is kept in the capital, and the left half of the talisman is issued to the troops stationed abroad. When troops need to be mobilized, the imperial envoy will go there with the right half of the talisman. After the army commander checks the right half of the talisman with the left half of the talisman, the army will act according to the orders conveyed by the envoy. This talisman was cast before Qin Huiwen became king and was in the hands of the military commander of Du Di.

Qin · Terracotta Warriors

Western Han Dynasty · A gilt and silver bamboo-sectioned copper incense burner, a national treasure, was unearthed from a burial pit on the east side of Maoling. According to the inscription, it should have been given to Princess Yang Xinchang and her husband by Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty. A gift from her husband, General Wei Qing.

Han · Gold Currency

Southern Dynasties · Tomb-Suppressing Beast (I know you are ugly, please compare it with the Tang Dynasty Tomb-Suppressing Beast later)

Northern Zhou Dynasty · The painted and gilded stone couch surrounding Anga's tomb. The inside of the screen is carved with 56 bas-relief gilded patterns, which mainly show that the owner of the tomb, Anga, saves money for travel and banquets. , hunting, entertainment and other scenes.

Tang · Architectural details

Tang Dynasty · Schematic diagram of imperial tombs and unearthed murals (the first two pictures are from the Mural Museum)

Tang Dynasty · Tomb-suppressing figurines and their placement

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Tang · Riding and shooting figurines/Music figurines/Female figurines/Dancing figurines

Tang · Hu Renmaid

Tang · Tang Sancai

After the Tang Dynasty, China's political center moved eastward, and Shaanxi bid farewell to its long history of having an imperial capital, but it is still the political, economic, and cultural center of the northwest region.

Song · Black glaze "oil drop" bowl. "Oil drop" is a special variety of black-glazed porcelain from the Song Dynasty. The black glaze shows small dots with silver-gray metallic luster, like droplets of oil. This is the largest artifact of its kind ever seen and is a national treasure.

Song · Chess and Go Box

Yuan · Magic square iron plate. There are 36 real Arabic numerals on the magic square iron plate. They form a square matrix of numbers from 1 to 36. Regardless of whether they are added horizontally, vertically or diagonally, the total is "111". This numerical phenomenon seemed mysterious to the ancients, so they were buried deep under the house foundation in the hope that it could ward off evil spirits and eliminate disasters. This magic square is the earliest physical material using Arabic numerals in the history of Chinese mathematics.

Qing · Ivory paper knife/radish/cabbage

Do you still remember Douyin, which dominated the screen during World Museum Day on May 18? When I came back to sort out the photos, I discovered that I had the same style.

Qin · Terracotta Warriors

 

(I don’t know what it is)

 

Tang Sancai self-pleasure trio

 

04

Xi'an, Chang'an

 

Sauvignon Blanc, in Chang'an.

——Tang Li Bai《Sauvignon Blanc》

 

"Like" is really a wonderful emotion. Some stories will never be forgotten after hearing them once, and some buildings will fall in love with them once they see them. Beijing and Xi'an are both cities that I like from the bottom of my heart because of my fascination with history, even if I have never been there. After living in Beijing for 6 years, it still makes me feel strange and curious, but for Xi'an, I feel familiar at first sight.

This is the first photo taken in Xi'an. Finally, I also saw the ancient city wall that can be seen as soon as I leave the train station.

This familiarity may be due to the reappearance of a long-awaited story before our eyes, maybe it is the unhurried and comfortable pace of life, maybe it is because the plane trees on both sides of the road are very similar to my hometown, maybe it is because of the people around me during this journey. People who accompany you.

A girl wearing Hanfu on the streets of Xi'an

We haven’t seen each other for three years. I originally had a lot of things on my mind that I wanted to talk to, but I forgot them as soon as I met. I almost forgot what we talked about in the past few days in Xi'an. I just remember that we kept talking, relaxed and happy. As you said, it's like going back to my student days, the summer when I had nothing to do and nothing to fear. It’s good that time passes by so quietly.

After writing this lengthy article, I realized that my days in Xi'an were as far away as Chang'an. It's very romantic, very reluctant, but it seems like it can't be the current life. Record all the emotions that are straightened out and those that are not straightened out like a monument. This pumpkin is going to bravely start again in his own life.