Zhoushan Travel Notes | Putuo Mountain-Sanmao’s Ancestral Residence

At Wenling Station, I separated from my friends and they went back to Nanjing. I had nothing to do recently, so I continued to relax and simply went to Zhoushan to have a look. I got on the high-speed train to Ningbo. The scenery outside the window was obviously green and full of vitality. It was obviously different from the scenery I had seen in Ali, Tibet. But each has its own beauty, just like everyone All unique, with their own beauty and depth.

This should be the last stop of my journey. I firmly believe it in my heart. I have been traveling around for nearly two months.

In the past two months, I can't say that my life has completely changed or it has had a huge impact on me. I can only say that it was a worthwhile trip. I have never regretted it. Of course, I can't help but regret it, because there are no such things in this world. Regret medicine.

1

Because from Wenling to Zhoushan, you must first go to Ningbo and then take a bus to transfer. Therefore, Ningbo has become a transfer station connecting other places and Zhoushan. I also want to stay in Ningbo for a day and take a closer look at this city, which is second only to Hangzhou in Zhejiang Province.

Standing under the Drum Tower in Ningbo, the only existing ancient city tower site in Ningbo, there is an old saying in the hearts of Ningbo people "Tianfeng Tower, in front of the Drum Tower, everywhere in the southeast and northwest" , which shows the unique geographical location of this place. superior.

Next to the Drum Tower is Ningbo's famous pedestrian street. At night, people come and go, but it feels like it is familiar to Nanjing Confucius Temple. Leave quickly and rush by.

Braving the strong sun at noon, I came to Zhongshuge Bookstore on Taodu Road, Ningbo. It might be a working day, but there were not many people in the bookstore. The staff was sorting out the new books that had just arrived. An old man seemed to be leading his granddaughter. Walking between books.

Zhongshuge has a sense of excessive decoration. Under the reflection of the surrounding mirrors, although the book is still the protagonist, it looks a little dizzy. I bought a copy of Zhou Guoping's "Occasional Travels" and a copy of "Sanlian Life Weekly" magazine, and left in a hurry.

Then we moved to Tianyi Pavilion, known as the oldest library in Asia. There are small bridges and flowing water, pavilions and pavilions. Carps are swimming freely in a pond, and they poke their heads out from time to time. It seems to be similar to Suzhou gardens. Very similar.

Tianyi Pavilion is a library. According to records, it was built during the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty and was presided over by Fan Qin, the right minister of the Ministry of War of the Ming Dynasty. But after a week of inspection, I didn't see any books in the collection. Maybe they are all being stored and not allowed to be seen.

At the moment, all cities are moving towards the same style as if they are attracted by a central magnet, with wide roads, busy traffic, uniform buildings, and everyone’s hurried footsteps. Of course, Ningbo is not immune.

So before the day was over, I couldn't wait to get to Ningbo South Railway Station and take the bus bound for Zhujiajian, Zhoushan. I thought that Zhoushan, which is closer to the sea, might be different and have a different feeling.

2

I never have any plans when going out for fun, and the same goes for my trip to Zhoushan this time. The most important thing is to visit Dongji Island. I learned earlier that Dongji Island actually consists of three islands - Miaozihu Island, Dongfushan Island and Qingbang Island. I want to stay on each of these three islands for a day to see the sea and enjoy the sea breeze. Take a dip in the sea.

The bus passed through several cross-sea bridges including Jintang Bridge, Xihoumen Bridge, Taoyaomen Bridge, Fuchimen Bridge and Zhujiajian Strait Bridge before arriving at Zhujiajian Passenger Terminal. Although it was almost eight o'clock in the evening and the sky was already dark, Zhujiajian Pier was still bustling with activity.

I plan to stay one night in Zhujiajian tonight because I haven’t bought my ferry ticket yet. To be honest, I don’t know where to buy it yet. I thought, no matter what, people have to get there first and anything can happen. solve.

There is a village, Sisu Village, more than two kilometers away from Zhujiajian Bus Terminal. It has become a gathering place for living and eating. Every household in the village is a B&B, just like a B&B village.

There are restaurants selling seafood along the street. I think many people regard this place as a transit point from Zhoushan to various islands.

While chatting with the owner of the B&B, I learned that Sisu Village was originally a small fishing village. In the past, the people here were fishermen, and the villagers had to go out to sea to fish. Later, the tourism industry developed here, especially the Zhujiajian Pier. With the opening of navigation, many fishermen returned to the land from the sea, built new houses, and started operating B&Bs. The same was true for him. As he spoke, he took out his crew certificate from the drawer next to him. He turned out to be a captain.

I can seem to imagine him driving his fishing boat calmly, cutting through the waves, and sailing to the sea more than 100 nautical miles away to fish. Whenever he talks about these things, he talks endlessly.

He and his partners sold the fishing boat a few years ago and have now retired, but he also told me that his only child is currently working as a crew member. He likes the sea and sometimes can only go ashore once a year and a half. Currently, he and his wife run this B&B. Of course, this is also their home. They cannot use the Internet, so most of the time they can only do business with acquaintances.

I have a question that has been on my mind since I entered Zhejiang, and I finally had the opportunity to ask it. "Why are most of the houses in the villages here in Zhejiang built with three floors?"

"Because the government only allows the construction of three floors."He answered me, and this answer was impeccable.

But he seemed to see my doubts, "Do you think there are so many floors that a family can't live in them all?"

I nodded, but he didn't answer me in detail. For the people here, it occupies an advantageous location. According to him, it is difficult to find a house here during the peak season.

"You may not see any fishing boats on the beach now, because it is the fishing moratorium. If you come in September or October, you will see fishing boats under the Zhujiajian Cross-Sea Bridge. They are densely packed and very spectacular." He added added. It can be seen that he still yearns for the sea.

I picked up the crew member's ID card he placed on the table. Except for some stains and creases, the stamp on the photo above was still clearly visible. There seemed to be no traces of time, but it was indeed the last souvenir of a retired fisherman. . I looked into his eyes. There was still light in his eyes, but they gradually dimmed.

Years are always outside of time, expressing the passage in another way. The sold fishing boat should still move forward bravely and sail into the deep sea under the command of another captain.

"That fishing boat still has ten years to live," he said at last.

3

I learned that the only way to go to the islands of Dongji Island is to take a boat to Miaozi Lake Island and then transfer from Miaozi Lake Island. However, I looked at the ticket sales column "Zhoushan Starfish Ferry", and all the tickets within five days were sold out. It showed that there were no tickets, and the earliest one could only be on the waiting list for the day after tomorrow.

So I put one on the waiting list, hoping to make up for it. Because coming to Zhoushan and Dongji Island is my first goal. If this cannot be achieved, then this trip will be in vain.

"You can go to Putuo Mountain first tomorrow." The owner of the B&B said to me.

"I'm not very interested in Putuo Mountain." I said. Although Putuo Mountain is one of the four famous mountains of Chinese Buddhism and is dedicated to Guanyin Bodhisattva, I couldn't get interested.

The next day, the ferry ticket was still on the waiting list, so I had nothing to do and ate a bowl of seafood noodles nearby, which tasted pretty good. I was thinking about where to go for a walk today. I originally wanted to go for a run. After all, I always take my running shoes with me wherever I go.

Although Zhoushan is windy and cooler than Ningbo, the ultraviolet rays are still strong. I had been exposed to the sun for more than four hours in Wenling two days ago, and now my skin was recovering, so I gave up the plan after thinking about it.

"You can go to Daqingshan." The owner of the B&B gave me another suggestion.

"Daqingshan is the highest place in Zhujiajian and is close to the seaside. It's a good place to take a walk." He added.

In fact, I wanted to go to Daqingshan, but it was far away from here. When I finally reached the intersection, I took out my mobile phone and decisively bought a package ticket to Putuo Mountain. I had said before that I was not interested in it, but now I was slapped in the face. For the first time, I felt the noise of Zhujiajian Centipede Pier.

Get on the ferry and arrive at Putuoshan Pier in about fifteen minutes. Putuo Mountain has become a cash cow in Zhoushan, with tourists coming and going. A 500ml bottle of Coke sold for 15 yuan. This is the first time I have seen it.

When a place becomes a popular tourist destination, it loses its charm. This is probably the reason why I don’t want to come to Mount Putuo. Famous at home and abroad, it is inevitable that it will be overcrowded.

But with the mentality and idea of ​​at least going to Mount Putuo in case I couldn’t go to Dongji Island, and to kill the day, I still came to Mount Putuo.

I wandered around Putuo Mountain, wherever I went. I really didn’t want to walk on such a hot day. Even though the distance from one scenic spot to another was sometimes only a short distance, I still chose to queue up and take the bus. This was not my style, but I did it.

I went to see the Puji Temple and the Nanhai Guanyin Statue here, and also burned incense. Amid the curls of incense, I still couldn't lift my spirits. Among the many pilgrims, I found that most of them are young people. Why do young people nowadays start to burn incense and worship Buddha? I didn’t quite understand it, but out of respect for everyone’s beliefs, I didn’t delve into it.

In the end, as I expected, I didn’t finish visiting the entire Putuo Mountain attractions, so I left in a hurry. This place may not be suitable for me.

I don't like places with a lot of people. Too many people are like a group of ants moving, one after another, crowded together, which makes me almost suffocated and I can't adapt.

I still fantasize about going to Dongji Island, sitting on a lonely sandstone, and looking at the clear sea in the distance. According to the owner of the B&B, the sea water there is very clear and unmatched here. So, I was full of expectations for it. But looking at the flow of people in front of me at this moment, that sense of urgency seemed to be gradually being dissipated.

When we arrived at the B&B, the owner of the B&B asked: "Daqingshan is back so soon?"

"I went to Putuo Mountain." I said to the boss with a smile.

"Didn't you say you won't go to Mount Putuo before? In fact, Mount Putuo is the most sacred mountain here. It's worth a visit. We go up there every year to worship Buddha." It can be seen that the owner of the B&B is very happy that I went to Mount Putuo. .

A friend also sent me a WeChat message, seeing that I was in Mount Putuo, and left a message saying that I wanted to have a child in the Holy Land. I thought I’d better seek a marriage first, and I had to figure out the order!

4

The last time to wait for a boat ticket was 11:30 that night, but after this time, I still did not receive news that the wait was successful. Obviously, the possibility of me being able to climb the mountain to Miaozihu Island for the ferry the next day was extremely slim. . But I didn’t give up. It was said that someone might refund the ticket in the morning, so you could go to the ticket office by the pier early to check.

So I arrived at the pier early the next morning, but as soon as I got there, I was shocked. Just like rural people going to the early market, there were already crowds of people there. I don't know where so many people suddenly appeared from, and I suddenly felt blurred in front of my eyes.

It was obvious that I couldn't go to Dongji Island. My impulsive heart was now washed away by the crowd, and it seemed pale and weak. I had lost the interest and courage to explore again. I sat on the bench next to me and carefully observed the pedestrians coming and going. Everyone seemed to be in a hurry, as if Mount Putuo and other islands next to me would be far away if they didn't hurry up.

I sat on this bench for about an hour. Most of the time, I occupied this bench by myself. It seemed that I was the only one doing nothing. In the end, I gave up the idea of ​​going to Dongji Island. I was unwilling to wait any longer and jumped on a nearby bus. I planned to go to the Sanmao ancestral home that I wanted to visit before at the last stop in Zhoushan.

Sanmao's ancestral residence is located in Chenjia Village, Miaoqiao, Xiaosha Town, Dinghai District, Zhoushan City. From Zhujiajian Centipede Zhi Pier to there is equivalent to diagonally crossing the entire city of Zhoushan. I took a total of 74 bus stops and changed buses once.

During the journey, I love taking the bus because the time can be relaxed and the bus routes are all pre-set, and each route has its own internal logic. The journey itself is meant to slow down.

Just like the No. 227 bus I took, it basically runs along the coastline of Zhoushan, and then the transfer No. 52 extends inward. I found that the villages in Zhoushan are very neat and clean. Places with mountains and seas always make people more hopeful and imaginative.

I got off the bus at Sanmao Ancestral Residence Station, and then followed the route to find Chenjia Village. The houses on both sides of the street looked newly renovated, very clean and tidy, and there were no pedestrians on the street.

Whether in the ancestral home or elsewhere in the village, Sanmao's shadow is everywhere. This village has long been proud of Sanmao, although Sanmao has only returned once since he left with his father when he was young.

In Sanmao's ancestral house, I was the only visitor at the moment, seemingly alone, and the recording of Sanmao's soft words echoed softly in the house.

Sanmao's life was displayed throughout the room. Although I knew almost all of the content, I was still moved by it. Especially the photo taken when Sanmao returned to the village in 1989. She was holding a cigarette in her hand, smiling broadly, chatting with the people around her, and she was full of charm.

Why is Sanmao still loved and remembered by us? I think she loves freedom. The unruly spirit and unique temperament contained in her articles are irreplaceable.

After visiting Sanmao’s ancestral home, I bought a cup of coffee at the nearby Sanmao Bookstore. There was only one female salesperson in the bookstore, and she came from Henan. I didn't ask too much about why she ran a small bookstore here. It was probably just a way of survival for her.

Then I went to a fast food restaurant not far away for lunch. I ordered two dishes, one meat and one vegetarian, and a bottle of local beer "Zizhulin". I was a little surprised because there is a place in Nanjing also called Zizhulin. Lin is not far from where I live, but I still don’t understand why it is called this name.

"Come to see Sanmao?" asked the female owner of the fast food restaurant. I was carrying a big bag, and the boss obviously saw that I was a tourist.

"Well, yeah." I replied.

"Sanmao is still very famous." She said with a smile, obviously proud of it.

One celebrity can change a village and bring it to life. I remember that I went to Haizi’s hometown in Anqing, Anhui earlier, where there was also re-planning and construction with Haizi as the center. However, because the village is far away from the urban area and there are occasional tourists, it still seems quiet and beautiful enough.

After eating, I carried my bag and jumped on another bus, my final destination was Nanjing. When I entered the station at Ningbo Station, because Nanjing was on the itinerary card, I needed to sign a commitment letter before I could enter the station. Finally, I needed to press my fingerprint. I suddenly felt like I was going back to a certain year and month in the past.

However, when I put my bright red finger prints on the commitment letter, not long after I entered the station, the star in Nanjing was removed. No, it should be all the stars in the country. This letter of commitment with bright red finger prints seems to have become a "last word" in a sense!

I finally escaped from Zhoushan and escaped the hustle and bustle!