It has been 10 years, and she is still the most unforgettable route in Yunnan.

What I want to talk to you about today is , a very niche and secretive route. It is in the mountains at the junction of Yunnan and Tibet. It has no artificial commercial atmosphere at all. It is a real, inaccessible secret place. She is Nujiang Grand Canyon.

"Lonely Planet" once wrote: All the wonders of Yunnan that you are familiar with or are still unfamiliar with are on the route from Nujiang to Tengchong.

In fact, it’s quite emotional. This is a route that was forced to be suspended for 3 years. We first developed this route around 2010 (it would have been even more isolated from the world than now) , but due to various reasons, especially the comprehensive construction of local roads in the past few years, we can only wait quietly for the day to return.

 

Thinking about it, it’s actually a good thing. After all, the infrastructure maniac in our country is not just bragging, but also to enable the local development. So until the end of 2019, the newly repaired roads finally allowed us to walk there again. The familiar and familiar place A strange corner of time.

 

This winter, the Nujiang Grand Canyon has ushered in the best season of the year. We decided to go online again. My wife really wants to introduce this place where humans and gods live together, which is far away from the world and has its own operating model. Everyone.

1. Why Nu River? Why now?

 

There are two reasons, one is seasonality , and the other is urgency.

The Nujiang Grand Canyon is located in Nujiang Prefecture in northwest Yunnan. A little further away is Tibet, and across the river is Myanmar. Friends who have watched "My Captain, My Group" must be familiar with it. It can be said to be a border within a border. A secret within a secret.

The total length of the canyon is hundreds of kilometers, and the relative height difference between the mountains on both sides is more than 3,000 meters.It is longer and more remote than the "Grand Canyon of Colorado"...In "Gaoligong Mountain" and "Biluo Snow Mountain" Surrounded by others, they are constantly running . The water volume of the Nu River is rapid. During most of the year, the huge amount of water rushes southward along the canyon like roaring beasts, constantly cutting the canyons on both sides deeper, which is spectacular! Hence the name Nujiang River.

 

But she doesn’t just have one face. Every year from November to March of the following year, Nujiang will show her most gentle and demure appearance. At this time, the river was calm and blue, like a girl about to be married. She had restrained her violent temper caused by the mud and sand in the day and night, and always showed her most dignified and beautiful appearance.

 

 

Another point, urgency. Actually, do you know? The Nujiang River is the last free-flowing river in China. There are no dams blocking the river. There was a great controversy over whether hydropower should be developed in the Nujiang River. After all, there is such a high gap advantage.

Nowadays, the water of Nujiang River can still run freely, and various fish in the river can also thrive according to their nature, so cherish everything now. Will the Three Gorges Dam of yesterday become the future of the Nujiang Grand Canyon? How much of the original ecology on both sides of the Nu River can be preserved? All unexpected unknowns can only be resolved by exploring as early as possible for the curious.

2. The people and gods on both sides of the Nu River are the soul of this place.

The Nu River is indeed beautiful, but the reason why it attracts people is more of the entire ecology composed of people, beliefs, and lifestyles of various ethnic groups in the Grand Canyon. This is also impossible to replicate. Yes, that’s why it’s so worth going.

The capital of Nujiang under the snow-capped mountains, Liuku

The secret of the secret lies not only in the uniqueness of the scenery or the fact that few people have witnessed it. Daodao believes that this "secret" should have something to do with people, especially the local people.

 

In the Nujiang Gorge, known as the "Utopia" in western Yunnan, the Lisu, Nu and Tibetans coexist harmoniously here, and the snow-capped mountains, canyons, temples and churches complement each other , Christianity, Catholicism, Buddhism, various Primitive worship and faith blend and coexist here... All of these constitute the soul of the Nujiang Grand Canyon.

The most beautiful Christian church in the canyon - Laomudeng

 

The indigenous people of the canyon had very difficult transportation to the outside world. So keep it A lot Traditional customs now seem to us like a door to another world.

Looking at the totem stone moon of the Lisu people from a distance/First team member Gentle Knife

Those zip lines in breathtaking canyons are still performing their function of transportation for thousands of years;

The Lisu and Nu people who live in the mountains on both sides of the canyon plow the land on the steep and scary mountains year after year, singing poems or drinking wine under the reflection of the snow-capped mountains;

Various religions gather in Bingzhongluo, where humans and gods coexist. This richness of lifestyle and belief is difficult to see in other places.

 

Therefore, truly experiencing the life of local people is the real core of this route. Daodao wants to bring warmth and thought, and use his own way to connect the lively and "unique" local people living in the canyons along the way. The richness and unity of the nation, the diversity and coexistence of religions, They will all become propositions that we think about together along the way.

 

3. Use these more niche methods

Take you to experience "those days in Nujiang"

 

Liuku is the first stop after entering the core area of ​​the Grand Canyon. It is a small town on the Nujiang River and is now the capital of Nujiang Prefecture.

Because the roads have been repaired and transportation has become more and more convenient, more and more tourists come to Liuku. There are also many local people who moved here from the depths of the canyon, eager for contact with the outside world and a better life.

Night view along the Liuku Nu River

Lisu four-part singing performance

Let the simple yet natural singing voice make you cry instantly

Here, Daodao arranged a unique Lisu four-part performance for everyone. This was our first close contact with the locals after entering the secret land of Nujiang.

 

These local fellow villagers are still engaged in their farming work during the day. When they put down their farm tools and stand on the stage at night, they all become artists who can sing the sounds of nature. The four-part singing is not only to show us the local original The moving nature of ecological music is more of a way for them to talk to God.

 

Although the singing is simple, it is extremely sincere. By listening, watching and participating, you will definitely be infected by their heartfelt awe~

 

 

The last pure land - Bingzhongluo

Visit the past and present of this place where humans and gods cohabitate

In the deepest part of the canyon, there is a quiet, open and fertile valley bottom - Bingzhongluo.

The original inhabitants of this area were the Nu and Dulong peoples. Later, with the introduction of Lamaism and the migration of many Tibetans, it was called "Bingzhongluo", which means "Bingzhongluo" in Tibetan. "Tibetan Village" Meaning.

Tibetans, Lisu, Nu, and Naxi people live together here, and Buddhism, Christianity, Catholicism, and Shamanism also coexist harmoniously here, which is quite rare in the world.

We will first go to see one of the most important totems of the Lisu people - the Stone Moon. It is located on the top of Gaoligong Mountain and looks like a round moon. This is a viewing platform with a relatively high altitude, overlooking the entire Nujiang Gorge. .

natural stone moon

After arriving in Bingzhongluo, Daodao invited us to explore Bingzhongluo in depth, rated as “the best hiking guide in Bingzhongluo area” by Lonely Planet’s “Yunnan”.

 

It is not an exaggeration to say that it is the most beautiful place in the Nujiang Grand Canyon. If you arrive in the evening and are blessed by God, you will see the green valleys on the river bank and the snow-lined mountains in the clouds and mist or glow, and you will definitely believe that this place is The so-called "man and God coexist" is not a false claim.

The guide will tell us about the past and present life of this place where humans and gods cohabitate from the perspective of local people. Maybe you will find that "Every day we live may be a series of miracles."

 

Bingzhongluo Chongding Church

Why are there so many churches deep in the mountains here, and why do residents have so many different beliefs? It is said that after many missionaries entered China, they were hindered in developed areas, so they had to go to many remote villages that were difficult to reach, which was why they left so many marks of the times.

 

Bingzhongluo is close to Tibetan areas, but it is one of the few peach blossoms in the canyon suitable for farming. Therefore, Nu, Lisu and Tibetan people live together here. Christianity, Catholicism and Tibetan Buddhism all have their devout believers. Also Therefore, it is called a blessed existence in the Grand Canyon.

This is also part of the ancient Tea Horse Road on the Yunnan-Tibet line. Following the guide, we will follow the most primitive Tea Horse Road dug by our ancestors, and we will gradually go deep into the hidden villages in Bingzhong and Luozhong. Wuli Village, Qiunatong...In the idyllic scenery of , the villagers quietly lived their own lives.

Traffic on the streets, chickens and dogs hearing each other, Tao Yuanming's paradise gradually emerges before our eyes.

Wuli Village is as mysterious and beautiful as its name, looming in the clouds and mist

Tea Horse Road/Starting Team Gentle Knife

Villagers working in Qiunatong

Stay overnight on Peach Blossom Island, feeling isolated and at ease

It is precisely "regardless of the Wei and Jin Dynasties, I don't know the Han Dynasty"

As we gradually go deeper, there is a real secret realm in the deepest part of Bingzhongluo, Peach Blossom Island.

There are no roads, no transportation. A human-horse suspension bridge connects the island to Bingzhongluo Town—it has also become the only way for people on the island to communicate with the outside world.

There is an old friend of Daodao here on the island, Village Chief Yang. When Daodao came here with her friends three years ago, she stayed at the head of Yang Village.

Three years have passed, and the living conditions of Village Chief Yang’s family have improved to some extent. He has also improved the accommodation environment for his friends. When he saw us coming back, Village Chief Yang was very enthusiastic and said that he had waited for us again and again, just like he was looking forward to his relatives far away.

This night's experience is bound to be unforgettable. We will stay at the head of Yang Village. As you can see, the conditions are very limited. Everyone really eats, drinks and sleeps together. Together with Village Chief Yang, we can sit around the fire pond, taste the most authentic meat and wine Xiala, and chat about our past and present lives. How many nights can there be like this?

 

Daodao has always insisted on connecting with local people, because this is what impresses us most when traveling. Two people from different worlds meet and connect here because of a special fate.

Perhaps for us, the Nujiang Grand Canyon is a spectacular scenery and a rare wonder. But for the people living here, it is a barrier from the outside world.

 

Why are there so many beliefs in the canyon? An important reason is that they need such spiritual sustenance because of the difficult and isolated existence. Similarly, for Village Chief Yang, we are also the window through which he connects to the outside world.

*Although the conditions of the "Island Owner"'s family have been upgraded, they are still only at the level of 1 rice, and they may have to stay in a multi-person room, but they can guarantee 1 bed per person (due to the limited number of rooms in the village chief's house, the number of rooms in the village chief's house will be adjusted according to the male and female members of the team. Depending on the number of students, there may be mixed housing of men and women). The bathroom facilities are rudimentary (like the local villagers, the larger ones have to go to the public toilet in the village~), you can't take a shower that night, and the humidity on the island is relatively heavy, and the mattress is definitely not as comfortable as the hotel bed. But this is the real life of the locals on Taohua Island, a paradise in the world. Although the conditions are difficult, Daodao believes that this will definitely become a unique experience.

Early the next morning, the "island owner" will take us to the Nujiang River to touch the water of the Nujiang River in person, instead of just sighing at the magnificence of the Nujiang River from a distance. Then we all climbed up the Gongdang Sacred Mountain together. Different from the first time we met, when we looked down at the Nujiang River again, we were not only impressed by the miraculous craftsmanship of nature. We had had close contact with him, and we ate with the people living around him. Having slept together, his or her fate is already connected with ours. Can he or she maintain his original appearance without being changed by the rapidly advancing industrialization process? His confusing fate has begun to be related to you and me.

Experience the local festival feast - Lisu hand-picked rice

After arriving from Bingzhongluo to Fugong, Daodao specially arranged a Lisu hand-picked rice banquet for everyone. The hand-picked rice banquet is a banquet for the Lisu people to entertain distinguished guests. Friends can try it at the banquet. Go to "Tongxin Wine" and "Three Parallel Rivers" and sing loudly with the locals. These unique experiences will completely immerse you in the wonderful life of the canyon and make you unwilling to leave for a long time.

Explore the "City of Memory" Zhiziluo, where time is frozen

There is also a legendary "abandoned city" on the Nujiang River - Zhiziluo. Originally, the capital of Nujiang Prefecture was located here.

However, due to a mudslide disaster in 1979, the booming town was severely damaged. The residents here moved out one after another, and Zhiziluo gradually became empty. (The state government later moved to Liuku)

The residents moved out and Zhiziluo became an "abandoned city" for a time. Here, there are broken glass windows everywhere; the library in the octagonal building has words of nostalgia for the county written in charcoal on the walls, and the empty stage, which makes people think of the excitement back then...

People call this the "City of Memory", as time seems to have frozen here, and everything remains as it was in the 1980s. Exploring such an "abandoned city" gives you a wonderful feeling of traveling through time.

Tomoko's Street Scene/Starting Team Gentle Knife

However, when last year's friends came here, some people could already be seen. Some elderly people moved back here and continued their lives. Scattered people are dotted among the mottled buildings, but there is a sense of abandonment and sadness.

The special natural environment created this secret realm, but it also brought obstacles and disasters here.

Zhizi Luo Bajiaolou/Starting Team Gentle Knife

In Zhiziluo, we can see how fragile a town is in the face of the power of nature. And people’s affection for their hometown is even more touching.

At the end of the trip, wash away all your fatigue with a hot spring in Tengchong

From the first time you see the Nujiang Gorge and then leave it, your spirit and soul will be filled with the enthusiasm of the locals and the beautiful scenery in the canyon. However, at the end of the trip, your body will feel tired. This little thoughtful (●'◡'●) arranged a hot spring experience for everyone in Tengchong.

This is Tengchong, the star tourist destination in western Yunnan. Daodao has arranged a hot spring experience for everyone. After a tiring trip in Tengchong, you can also spend a comfortable night~ Wash away the troubles of the world and bring you a happy life. Let’s embark on a new journey with a relaxed heart. Daodao opens the door to travel for you, and I hope you can continue to discover more wonderful things of your own with the spirit of exploration.

4. Finally, I hope you can be mentally prepared when traveling to Nujiang River

The Nujiang area is a secret place that few travelers have set foot on. Naturally, the hardware level cannot be compared with mature tourist resorts such as Kundali, and the accommodation conditions are really limited. But if you prefer non-tourist travel and want to go deep into the local area and experience the life of the locals in a real secret place, then don’t hesitate! It’s right to follow Daodao to explore this secret place of Nujiang where humans and gods coexist!

You can see that the Nu River is changing, but along the way, it's like peeling off the layers of an onion. The deeper you go, the stronger the stimulation becomes, and the more you feel the charm of this place where humans and gods coexist.

——Starting team member of Nujiang Secret Realm

During the early morning hike in Wuli Village, we climbed over a mountain to go to another village. Village Chief Yang’s enthusiasm and cordiality as he waited for us again and again, just like cherishing family members who have returned from afar. Brother Aluo is not the type to take the initiative and talk endlessly. , but when you ask something, he will definitely answer, all so kind, warm and natural. What the beautiful scenery brings to you is only a short part of the memory and a momentary touch in life, but the memory of people is long-lasting. We are very lucky to meet people who are different from our lives. Because of them, the memory of Bingzhongluo will be more Beautiful, more three-dimensional, and more unforgettable.

——Starting team member of Nujiang Secret Realm