In the deep south of Mexico, Pacal and its Palenque kingdom have been sleeping for thousands of years; far away from the crowded hustle and bustle of Yucatan, in front of the lonely ruins, only the cries of apes and the sound of waterfalls can be heard from the distant mountains and forests, so secluded that it feels like a retreat from the world. A paradise; all the way south along the border road, you connect the two wonderful Mayan ruins of Jacquilan and Bonampac; Jacquelan is deep in the riverside mountains and forests, and waterway is the only way to reach it; the exquisite murals of Bonampac It is unique among Latin American civilizations. The few tourists allowed me to enjoy a quiet moment alone with history in the early morning and dusk.
Palenque
It is hard to imagine that such a huge Mayan city-state is hidden in the dense forests of the mountains in central Mexico. Palenque, called Lakamha in ancient times, means Big Water. The site, which dates from 226 BC to 799 AD, was quickly overrun by jungle after its decline and was not discovered by Spanish colonists until the mid-18th century. It’s only a short 15-minute drive from the small town of Palenque to the scenic ruins. Just use Google Maps to navigate directly to Palenque. Friends who choose to take a taxi from the city must make it clear with the driver that they are going to the Upper Entrance and not when they first entered the forest. Next to the museo in the area (Palenque Museum), there is still a distance to climb from there to the core area of the Palenque ruins.
Climbing up the stairs from the entrance of the scenic spot, you will soon reach Templo de las Inscripciones(Templo de las Inscripciones), which is one of the most important buildings in Palenque. Construction of the Temple of the Inscriptions may have begun as early as 675 AD as a tomb for King Hanab-Pakal. The inscription on the temple's superstructure is the second longest hieroglyphic tablet in the Mayan world (the longest is the Hieroglyphic Staircase of Copan, in Honduras). The inscribed tablets record the history of Palenque from the fourth to the twelfth K’Atun period (i.e. 180 years). (As introduced in the observatory chapter of the previous travelogue to Chichen Itza: In the Mayan calendar, 360 days are one "Tun", and 20 "Tun" are one "K'Atun", which is 7200 days. For more popular science about the Mayan calendar, see here: Self-driving in Mexico | Yucatan: Chichen Itza, Tulum and surrounding cenotes and cave diving)
In 1952, while doing in-depth excavations in Palenque, Mexican archaeologist Alberto Ruz Lhuillier removed a stone slab from the back room of the inscribed temple building and unexpectedly discovered a passage. Through a long staircase, Alberto Ruz Lhuillier discovered A tomb containing a sarcophagus was built. The coffin lid is carved from a single piece of limestone and weighs 5 tons. It is engraved with a relief of "Mayan Astronaut" that still causes a great sensation today. After opening the coffin, the surface of the coffin was covered with red cinnabar. Inside lay a tomb owner whose body was decorated with gems and whose face was wearing an emerald mask. He was the legendary king of Palenque: Pakal. The discovery of this pyramid tomb is a landmark. Before this, it was generally believed that the Mayan pyramids were only used for religion and sacrifice. The discovery of Palenque broke this law-the Mayan pyramids can also be used as tombs. of.
Today, King Pacal's sarcophagus has been moved to the Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City, underground in the underworld area of the museum's Maya exhibition, where its priceless emerald mask was stolen in 1985. But don’t be too disappointed. There is also a museum in the Palenque ruins, which displays most of the authentic treasures excavated from the Palenque ruins. There are also replicas of Pakal’s sarcophagus and inscription tablets. Unfortunately, When I arrived, the museum was under maintenance and closed to the public, which was the only regret about staying in Palenque.
The picture below is the previously mentioned sensational "Mayan Astronaut" relief on King Pacal's sarcophagus. In the picture, a man (generally believed to be King Pakal) is lying half-lying in the center, operating some instrument in his hand, and at the bottom of the picture is a blazing flame. Does it look like an astronaut sitting in a space capsule, waiting for the rocket to launch? This relief has aroused huge discussion, and people have inevitably asked whether the painting depicts a real Mayan rocket launch scene? Where did the Mayan civilization come from? Why does a civilization that has not even invented the wheel or iron tools master such precise astronomical algorithms? Are there really any extraterrestrial visitors to help? Of course, all speculations are groundless conjectures, and we can only find out some clues of history step by step through excavations by archaeologists. The mystery of Palenque may remain deep in the forests of Chiapas like the site itself. Lost forever.
Next to the Temple of the Inscriptions is Palenque's Templo XIII, also known as the Temple of the Red Queen. The tombs in the Red Queen Temple were not excavated until 1994. After DNA comparison, it was found that the tombs were Pa King Carl's wife, Tz'ak-b'u Ajaw. She was called the Red Queen because her whole body was covered in bright red cinnabar, and the inner wall of the sarcophagus is still dyed bright red by cinnabar. When she was excavated, the queen also wore a mask made of 300 pieces of malachite on her face, and her body was covered with more than a thousand pieces of jade. The tomb is now open to visitors, but no photos are allowed. There is an empty sarcophagus inside, and the mask is now collected in the Anthropology Museum in Mexico City. Opposite the Red Queen's Tomb, in the shade of a tree, there is a small stone tablet marking the tomb of archaeologist Alberto Ruz Lhuillier, who dedicated his life to Palenque.
The Palace is located in the center of the entire ancient city of Palenque, diagonally opposite the Inscription Temple, and is the largest building complex in Palenque. The palace took several generations of Palenques 400 years to build and was used by Maya nobles for bureaucracy, entertainment and religious ceremonies.
The palace preserves a large number of sculptures and bas-reliefs, as well as intact bathrooms and toilets. Below the palace is a complex water supply system. A three-meter-high vault stone introduces the Otulum River, Palenque's main drinking water source, to the main square. Below, the tallest 4-story structure of the palace is called the Observation Tower. The complex consists of several connected buildings and courtyards. Each room is connected by passages below. The toilets and steam baths can be found below. Found in the hidden passage.
The south side of the palace is the side that has not been repaired at all. Only about 1,000 tourists visit the Palenque ruins every day. The huge ruins and enough open space allow tourists to fully experience the Mayan city-state in the forest.
Leaving the south side of the palace and crossing a small stream, the Otulum River, the aforementioned source of Palenque's drinking water, you can reach the Grupo de las Cruces temple complex. After the death of King Pachar, his son Kan B’alam II presided over the construction of this temple complex. During his 18 years of reign (684-702 AD), Palenque's territory expanded to the banks of the Sumahinda River (the location of Yaxchilán, which will be mentioned later), and then his brother K'an Joy Chitam II and Palenque Charles III continued the prosperity of Palenque for nearly forty years. In 742 AD, Palenque gradually declined.
Temple of the Foliated Cross (right side of the picture above). The beams at the top of the temple have fallen off due to long-term exposure to the sun. There are stone slabs inside with the image of King Pacal carved on it. Climb up to the Leaf-shaped Cross Temple. The stepped building next to it is the Temple of the Cross (left side of the picture above). The Temple of the Cross is the tallest of the three temples. The stone carving on the top is painted with Kan B' Alam II's appearance when he succeeded to the throne.
The building on the left side of the picture below is the Temple of the Sun (Templo del Sol). There is a stone tablet in the temple that records the scenes of Kan Bahlam II from his birth in 634 AD to when he inherited the throne in 684 AD. Kan Bahlam II in the stone tablet faces his father Pa King Carl. Of course, most of the stone tablets and tablets in the Palenque ruins are replicas, and the ones in the Temple of the Sun are no exception. The originals have been sealed in museums.
Leaving the Grupo de las Cruces temple complex and entering the jungle on its south side, you can reach the Acropolis Sur complex. K’inich Ahkal Mo’ Nahb III, the third generation successor of Pakal, built this place, which was also the last prosperous period of Palenque. Templo XIX, pictured below, is located at the southernmost point reachable on foot within the excavated sites of Palenque: In 1999, archaeologists discovered several limestone slabs carved with hieroglyphics here, thus uncovering the secrets of Palenque. The origin of Gram. The stone tablets record the successive kings of Palenque and their successors, allowing archaeologists to have a complete timeline of the entire Palenque dynasty. There are replicas of these stone slabs on the south side of the current Templo XIX.
When the Templo XX in the picture below was discovered in 1999, there was an ancient tomb with red murals inside the pyramid. After years of archaeological restoration, it was not until 2012 that scientists gradually believed that the owner of the tomb was the ancestor of Palenque. : K'uk' Bahlam I. The pyramid ruins are still undergoing conservation work and cannot be climbed.
After finishing the above tour of the entire southeastern area of Palenque, get out of the jungle and return to the main palace.
To the north of the Palenque ruins, there are various building groups, basically for civilian use.
Palenque is so big that according to the latest multispectral images and archaeological research, only 5% of the entire Palenque area has been excavated. There are also a large number of architectural ruins and palaces buried in the dense jungle. In addition to the traditional heritage areas, Palenque Scenic Area also includes:
1: Motiepa Waterfall , you need to park the vehicle at the first hairpin turn and simply hike there;
2: Sombrillas Waterfalls , located at the trailhead under the ruins mountain, is the most beautiful waterfall in Palenque;
3: Palenque Museum , (the museum is said to be even more exciting than the ruins).
It will take at least half a day to completely visit the Palenque scenic area, so it is recommended to bring supplies in advance. Don Muncho's at the gate of the scenic spot is a star-recommended restaurant by Lonely Planet. The taste is good according to my own test. There are more mosquitoes. There will be an on-site restaurant every Friday to Sunday at 20:00. Jungle Music Festival. It should be noted that it is not easy to find this restaurant by car. Google navigation is wrong. The restaurant is located on a gravel path on the left hand side facing the gate of Palenque Park. After entering, turn right and you can see the signboard. If you don’t drive yourself, you can choose to take a taxi from the city. Local drivers know this restaurant.
The town of Palenque was born for the ruins. The town is so small that you can walk around it. Primera Avenida Nte. Pte is the main tourist street in the town of Palenque, with major hotels, youth hostels, restaurants and travel agencies on both sides. This main street is about a 100 meter walk from the ADO bus station which has frequent services to Merida, Campeche, Cancun and San Cristóbal.
On another parallel road, there is a minibus stop for the Palenque ruins (Google Maps search: AEXA SA de CV buses). Next to the minibus station is the only Chinese restaurant in Palenque: Comida China Da Xing. (This was Chen's first Chinese meal in Mexico. Tears filled his eyes. The boss gave him a lot of extra portions when he saw faces from the East.) Palenque Central Square is about a 1-kilometer walk from the ADO bus station. There is a small church in the central square. The main square is opposite the Burger King fast food restaurant, and next to Burger King is a souvenir street.
Around Palenque: Jacques Sheeran and Bonham Park
Far south of Palenque, on the border with Guatemala, are two more Mayan ruins submerged deep in the jungle: Yaxchilan and Bonampak The former, Yaxilán, is the only Mayan site that can only be reached by water, so tourists need to take a bus to get there. Frontera Corozal , and then take a speedboat for about 40 minutes to reach the ruins; the latter Bonham Park represents the most exquisite murals in South America before the Spanish colonized Mexico.
Because today’s tour focuses on the Palenque ruins, I really can’t find time to visit these two Mayan ruins in the deep forest, so I can only provide specific information here. The easiest way to go to these two Mayan ruins is to join a group. The one-day tour price on the main tourist street of Palenque: Primera Avenida Nte. Pte is 700-850 Peso. Whether you are with a group or driving by yourself, you need to visit these two ruins. Set aside a whole day.
If you go by car: It is recommended to go to Jacques Hillan first. You need to go to the small town of Frontera Corozal first (about 2 hours and 50 minutes by car, 164 kilometers). After arriving in the town, drive directly to the town pier (pier navigation: Turismo Bio-arqueológico SIYAJ CHAN). There is a thatched house next to the pier, which is the boat rental point. The chartered boat service to Jacques Hillan is relatively fixed, with the outbound journey taking 40 minutes along the current and the return journey taking one hour. There are 2 and a half hours of visiting time at the ruins. The more people there are, the more favorable the price. The price for 1-3 people is mostly 900 Peso/boat, and the price for 10 people can be around 1,700 Peso. You can wait as long as possible at the dock to join a team with others to share the boat, so as to share the price. It is recommended to come to the pier at least before 11:00 noon (there will be no boats after 13:30) and take a boat to the Jacques Hillan ruins. The entrance fee to the ruins is 55 pesos.
Getting to Bonham Park is relatively painless. It takes 40 minutes to drive from the small town of Frontera Corozal to Bonham Park . You will pass through the small town of Lacanja on the way, and you need to pay a "gate fee" of 20 Peso per person. The town of Lacanja will pass through an intersection on the way to Bonham Park. You need to park here and take the scenic minibus to . The price of the minibus is 150 Peso/person for a round trip ( Ridiculously expensive, but the only option), Bonham Park tickets are 46 pesos, and you need to come to the ruins at least before 15:00 (it closes at 16:30).
Around Palenque: Blue Water Falls Misol-Ha and Agua Azul
Around Palenque, there are two waterfalls in the jungle, Misol-Ha and Agua Azul , that you can visit. Travel agencies in the streets and alleys of Palenque town offer one-day tours to these two scenic spots, and the price is about 250-300 Peso. Most tourists will choose a one-way one-day tour starting from Palenque and passing through these two waterfalls before heading to San Cristóbal.
Misol-Ha Falls is about a 30-minute drive from Palenque. There is no scenic gate to the waterfall. After turning in from the main road, you can reach the parking lot and drive all the way to the waterfall. Misol-Ha Waterfall is well-known in the local area. I thought it was a big waterfall when I looked at the photos online, but when I walked closer I realized it was just a trickle. Going to Misol-Ha in the morning will be backlit. If conditions permit, it is recommended to go in the afternoon. When visiting the waterfall, it is recommended to walk to the left from the entrance. There is a trail that can go down to the back of the waterfall.
From Misol-Ha all the way to San Cristóbal, you can reach Blue Water Falls (Agua Azul) in an hour's drive. Compared with Misol-Ha, this place is much more spectacular. It can be called the Mexican version of Jiuzhaigou. Blue Water Falls is a large scenic spot at first glance. In addition to food and drink, there are also places to stay. It is estimated that many Mexicans come here for vacation during the holidays.
Practical information
(updated to 2018/5)
arrival and departure
Palenque is located deep in the mountains of central Mexico. It has no airport and is a five-hour drive from the nearest city, San Cristóbal. Palenque ADO Bus Station is about a 100-meter walk from the main tourist street of the town: Primera Avenida Nte. Pte. There are frequent buses to Merida, Campeche, Cancun and Santa Cristo. Tovar. Because there are many mountain roads, it is recommended to prepare motion sickness medicine in advance. Many cities that seem to be not far away actually require twice the preparation time to drive.
The best way to get to Jacques Sheeran and Bonham Park is to book a day trip with a local travel agency. Day tours are also suitable for Blue Water Falls, and most tourists will choose a one-way one-day tour starting from Palenque, passing through Blue Water Falls and then to San Cristobal.
Self-driving safety
Starting from Palenque, the road in the mountains of central Mexico begins to get rough, and you have to watch out for speed bumps from time to time. Probably because there were so many tourists coming and going, children from nearby villages simply set up "roadblocks" on the road to collect tolls. (Most of these children will squat at the Topes, because the vehicles themselves have to slow down when passing by)
Most of the roadblocks are a piece of hemp rope or a branch, with a child holding it on each side. When a vehicle comes to block the road, they reach out to ask for tolls. Of course, I will not condone this. Unearned behavior , Some children are better, and will "actively" let you go if they see you are not moved or squeeze the car later; but the more aggressive children will point at the mobile phones and cameras in the car, or even smash the car windows. Although it is very angry, you should not cause trouble in a foreign country, even if you have been They were stuck there, and as the following vehicles piled up, they had no choice but to let them pass. During the drive on the mountain roads around Palenque, Chen encountered more than 10 people stopping him to ask for money. He reminded friends who plan to drive on this road to be mentally prepared. Here are 4 experiences:
2: Never give money when it is safe. Chen had experience in the second half of the journey. When he saw a place like Topes ahead or a group of children squatting on the roadside, he deliberately slowed down and waited for the next car. In this way, if there are many cars backlogged there, they will naturally not block the road.
3: Keep the belongings in the car away along the way. Sometimes children will keep pointing at the car when they block the road.
4: Some children will not maliciously block the road and directly ask for money. Most of these people will sell some snacks and souvenirs. It doesn’t matter if you buy one, but you need to be clear. If you can see other "roadblocks" in front of you, don't do it. Buy it, otherwise you won’t be able to escape the next one.
