Lhasa, a holy place where all Buddhas and Bodhisattvas live and bless. When you set foot in Lhasa for the first time, you may not be able to immediately feel its mystery and splendor. Except for the Potala Palace on Red Mountain and the Jokhang Temple on Barkhor Street, everything in this city seems to have been caught up in the trend of the times, becoming more and more like the mainland, losing the sense of distance from above.
For many tourists, Lhasa is the beginning of the pursuit of the secret Tibet, and it is also a transit point for people who pass by in a hurry. Lhasa is the center of Tibet. To the east is Linzhi, the "Tibetan Jiangnan", and Medog, where the hidden lotus blooms; to the west is Shigatse, where the world's highest peak, Mount Everest, is located, and the vast Ali Plateau; to the south is the birthplace of Tibetans. to the south of the mountains; to the north is the desolate northern Tibetan Plateau.
Therefore, for no particular reason, the time left for Lhasa is only two or three days. Pilgrimage to the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple, and strolling around Barkhor Street are probably the entire itinerary in Lhasa. If there are no plans to visit Tibet again, then most tourists will be destined to miss its hidden and ancient temples hidden in the crisscrossing streets.
In September, I went to Lhasa on business and had a free day. I went to Drepung Monastery, which I had longed for, and unexpectedly discovered a good one-day pilgrimage route. The temples on this pilgrimage route are simple and inconspicuous, and it is easy to pass them by. And when you really walk in, you will find that the purity and holiness you thought were disappearing are actually always there.
The travel notes are protracted from autumn to winter. The best time to travel to Lhasa is that I boldly elaborate on it and recommend this route to friends who want to see more of the original life in Lhasa and are willing to make a pilgrimage.
Route: Ramoche Temple - Cibalakang Temple - Canggu Temple & Canggu Temple Tea House - Xia Mi Temple
Address: About 500 meters north of Barkhor Street, Lhasa, Tibet
Ticket: 20 yuan
Opening hours:9:00-17:00
The Ramoche Temple, which is not as large and famous as the Jokhang Temple but is equally important, was built by Princess Wencheng herself after she married into Tibet. It was used to worship the 12-year-old life-size statue of Sakyamuni Buddha who came to Tibet with her marriage.
Later, due to political changes, wars and other reasons, the 12-year-old statue of Sakyamuni Buddha was moved to the Jokhang Temple and sealed in a secret room during the reign of Mangsong Mangtsan. It was not until Princess Jincheng married into Tibet that this Buddha statue was brought back to light and is enshrined in the Jokhang Temple to this day. Ramoche Temple is used to worship the eight-year-old life-size statue of Sakyamuni Buddha brought by the Nepalese princess.
The Lesser and Lesser Zhao Temples are one of the few monasteries in Lhasa that are not oriented north-south. The gate of Jokhang Temple faces west, symbolizing that the Nepalese princess came from the west. The gate of Ramoche Temple faces east, symbolizing that Princess Wencheng came from China to the Tang Dynasty, expressing the homesickness of the two princesses.
Ramoche Temple is almost in the middle of Ramoche Temple Road. The temple gate is not conspicuous, and there is only a small ticket office at the intersection. However, there is the only flower stall on this road outside Ramoche Temple, so it’s almost there when you see the flowers.
After checking in, go inside and there is a window on the right side of the square in front of the hall, where you can paste gold powder, a treasure vase, and write red strips for blessings and salvation. Friends in need can ask monks to write names and pray for themselves, relatives and friends, the sick or deceased at home. The written red paper can be taken to the Buddhist temple and given to the lama or left here.
There are almost no large-scale tour groups in Ramoche Temple. Tibetan pilgrims line up quietly and silently offer butter to every passing butter lamp. Even if the worship procession is long and slow, it is not impatient.
The Buddhist hall enshrining the eight-year-old life-size statue of Sakyamuni Buddha is at the back of the sutra hall. This eight-year-old life-size statue is one of the only three remaining Buddha statues in the world that has been personally consecrated and blessed by Sakyamuni Buddha. . The other two are a twelve-year-old statue and a twenty-five-year-old statue. The twenty-five-year-old statue is enshrined in the Enlightenment Pagoda in Bodhgaya, India. These three Buddha statues are all liberated upon seeing.
When the founder of Buddhism, Buddha Sakyamuni, was alive, he opposed idol worship and did not build temples to worship images. Only before his nirvana did he agree to have a statue made of himself at three different ages and draw the statue himself. Among these three Buddha statues, the gilt bronze statue of Sakyamuni as a prince at the age of twelve is the most exquisite and noble. It is said that because Shakyamuni Buddha's wet nurse and others were there to guide him, the statue resembled him very much, so it was called a life-size statue.
The Tibetans held the hada in their hands, lowered their waists slightly, and lined up to enter the Buddhist temple with pious eyes. In front of the extraordinary Buddha statue, the monks who protect it all day long pour the butter offered by Tibetans into the tall butter lamp. Offering butter lamps is as common as three meals a day in the lives of Tibetans, but it is more important than three meals a day. There are butter stalls at the entrances of large and small monasteries in Lhasa. Almost every Tibetan who walks into the temple will buy a pot of butter and enshrine it in the ever-lasting butter lamp in front of the Buddha.
Outside the gate of Ramoche Temple is the corridor of prayer wheels. Tibetans walk along this corridor to the Buddhist temple, turn the ancient prayer wheels, and murmur mantras as the mulberry smoke floats into the distance. It is said that during the slave era, most Tibetans were illiterate, and prayer wheels containing scriptures were their counting tools. Each turn was equivalent to reciting a mantra. The axis of the prayer wheel is updated every time it makes a certain number of turns. In this way, Tibetans can know how many times they have recited the mantra.
Address: About 500 meters north of Barkhor Street in Lhasa, Tibet (next to Ramoche Temple)
Tickets: Free
Opening hours:all day
About 20 meters south from Xiaozhao Temple is Cibalakang Temple. If it weren't for the mulberry smoke outside the temple and the constant flow of Tibetans coming in and out, it would be almost difficult to realize that this is also a temple. Step into the small temple gate and walk along the row of prayer wheels on the right side of the temple wall. In the southwest corner is the side hall where rows of butter lamps are enshrined.
Despite its size, the temple enshrines the largest Buddha Amitayus in Lhasa, and is said to be the most efficacious Buddha in Lhasa. Longevity and health are the greatest wishes of people in the world. Therefore, although Cibalakang Monastery is not big, there is an endless stream of Tibetans who come to pilgrimage, especially older Tibetans.
From east to west in the main hall, four-armed Avalokitesvara, Her Majesty Buddha, Sakyamuni Buddha, Vajradhara Buddha, Amitayus Buddha, Randen Buddha, Jampa Buddha, White Tara and Open-Eye Heavenly Mother are enshrined. The ever-bright butter lamp in front of Amitayus Buddha is continuously filled with butter newly offered by Tibetans. Tibetans from poor families cannot afford ready-made butter, so they bring their own butter. Every time they go to a butter lamp, Just take a spoonful from the box and offer it.
The Buddha has long told us that no matter whether it is a full pot or a small spoon, as long as the intention is pure and the offering is made to help sentient beings escape from the darkness of ignorance, the merits will be the same.
After prostrating and making offerings to the Buddha of Amitayus, Tibetans habitually walk around the corridor outside the Buddhist hall, turning around the Buddha and chanting sutras. Following the footsteps of the Tibetans, in the narrow and enclosed space, the low sound of mantras lingered in my ears. I couldn't help but raise my voice of chanting mantras, blending into the queue in the wide corridor, "pretending" to be a local for once.
Address: No. 29, Linkuo South Lane, Chengguan District, Lhasa
Ticket: 40 yuan
Opening hours: 08:00-20:00
Coming out of Cibalakang, go south along Ramoche Temple Road for about 300 meters. At the intersection of Ramoche Temple Road and Beijing East Road, take the overpass and cross the road. You will soon arrive at Chongsaikang Market. This is where Lhasa locals buy daily necessities. Along Chongsekang Lane, many Tibetans stand on the street buying and selling beads and dzi beads. Most of the shops on the street sell Tibetan handicrafts and Tibetan daily necessities, so you have plenty of time. If you want, you can drop by for a walk.
I followed the navigation and walked nearby, but still "successfully" got lost. There is almost no difference between the temple gate of Canggu Temple and the shops on the streets and alleys of Linkuo South Road. If I hadn't asked the Tibetans in the shops on the street, I would have almost turned a blind eye and passed by.
In fact, there is a characteristic that can be identified: if you suddenly see the figure of Juemu (a female monk) on Linkuonan Road, then you are not far from Canggu Temple, because Canggu Temple is the only one in Lhasa. A temple for female monks to practice asceticism.
The origin of Canggu Temple is related to the Tibetan king Songtsan Gampo. Legend has it that in order to eliminate the flood hazard of the Lhasa River, the Tibetan king dug a hole on the river embankment to retreat, chant sutras and pray for blessings. Later generations called the underground cave where King Tibet practiced as "Canggu", which means underground cave.
In the 15th century AD, Master Tsongkhapa's favorite disciple Gujue Duoden officially built Canggu Temple on the basis of the practice cave. After two expansions, it gradually formed its current scale.
The small and exquisite Canggu Temple has only one main Buddhist hall with two floors. Go up the steps and step into the temple door. Although it is not as spacious as other temples and the giant Buddha stands tall, it has an inexplicable aura of peace and tranquility. The eleven-faced Guanyin Bodhisattva that is the main offering is very special, and I can’t help but want to bow to her and pray to her. After some research, I found out that this eleven-faced Guanyin Bodhisattva is the treasure of the temple. It was built in the early 15th century, more than 600 years ago.
At the top of the alley on the left side of the first floor of the main Buddhist hall is the legendary Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo's practice cave. Now there is a small statue of Songtsen Gampo enshrined inside. During lunch time, I only encountered one Juemu looking after me here.
The entire Canggu Temple is filled with a touch of femininity. Everywhere you look, it is clean and tidy, with flowers in bloom. It is said that before the liberation, many nobles sent their daughters to Canggu Temple to practice in order to avoid the high dowry when marrying off their daughters. Nowadays, it is not easy to enter Canggu Temple to study Dharma. You need to pass a strict examination, which includes being able to recite 500 pages of scriptures fluently.
In his autobiography "Snow Cave: The Journey of Enlightenment in the Himalayas", Bhikkhuni Denzin Paimo of London, England wrote: "In the past, it was often extremely difficult for women to receive Dharma teachings. Many bhikkhunis did not have the opportunity to receive education. They often prayed for their future in the next life. Can be born into a male body to obtain various conveniences for learning Buddhism."
Even now, nuns and monasteries are very few in Tibet. The existence of Canggu Temple is as precious as the snow lotus, providing a convenient place for women who want to achieve success to study Dharma and practice.
Part of the daily expenses of Canggu Temple comes from the shops and sweet tea houses run by the mothers themselves. The shop is right next to Canggu Temple, and the sweet tea house is not far from the temple. Smelling the aroma of rice in Canggu Temple, my stomach began to growl. When you go out of Canggu Temple, turn left (please forgive the southerners who don't distinguish between east, west, north and south). When you see the sign, turn left in the alley and you will find the Canggu Temple Teahouse.
Ordering and picking up meals are all self-service, and you can sit anywhere you want upstairs or downstairs. Probably because few tourists come, the Tibetans are as curious as me. I observed them (her) secretly, and they (her) also looked at me cheerfully.
Two steamed buns, a bowl of jelly, and a pot of milk tea complete a lunch of both food and drink. Teahouses can be found everywhere in Lhasa. Compared with the Internet celebrity "Guangming Sweet Teahouse", such small teahouses are more down-to-earth and allow you to see a more life-oriented Lhasa. Best of all, the meals are cheap and delicious.
Address: Shiqiao Lane, Beijing East Road, Chengguan District, Lhasa City
Tickets: Free
Opening hours: 09:00-17:00
Xiami Temple was built in 1433. It is a tantric monastery built by Tsongkhapa’s disciples to promote and practice Tantric Buddhism.
The temple is located on the lively Beijing East Road. It looks very inconspicuous from the outside, but there is a small square when you walk in. When I visited that day, several lamas were busy in the square, seeming to be preparing something. A pair of oversized prayer wheels on the west side of the temple rotate continuously in the hands of Tibetans.
Before entering the main hall, I heard the deep and deep sound of chanting sutras coming from inside. I didn't dare to stay any longer and disturbed, so I went straight to the second floor to see the treasure of the temple - the statue of the Green Tara.
It is said that the Green Tara statue painted on the wall of the second floor hall was formed naturally. No matter where you stand, as long as you look at her, her eyes will always be looking at you, which is particularly incredible. now. After hundreds of years, the Green Tara thangka is still brightly colored, as if it has been given gold as offerings by countless pilgrims, and its golden face is quiet and soft.
Walking out of the main hall, the monks who had been chanting sutras in the hall were sitting in the square in front of the hall and performing a fire offering ceremony. Fire offering is a Tibetan secret offering method, which involves burning grains, oil, gold and silver and other offerings to make offerings to the deity and worldly protectors.
If you have not experienced it personally, it would be difficult to understand the touch brought by such a scene: outside the temple is the busy modern world, but inside the temple ancient and mysterious rituals are carried out, without the hustle and bustle of the world, at this moment I just want to immerse myself in In a kind of silent concentration and strength.
This one-day tour route is relatively niche, suitable for those who are studying Tibetan Buddhism or are very interested in Tibetan Buddhism. Slow down and stroll around in Lhasa, where the sunshine is warm in winter.
Finally, I would like to recommend a book by Teacher Zhao. Friends who like photography are definitely worth buying.
◎ The flower stall in front of the Ramoche Temple costs 10-25 yuan per bouquet. Friends who are interested can ask for a few bouquets to offer to the Buddha.
◎ There is basically a place to buy butter at the entrance of every temple. For 40 yuan/small pot, you can give it to a monk to help you offer it to the butter lamp in front of the Buddha, or you can offer it yourself. Refuse to bargain, no bully.
◎ You can invite wine, milk, tea and other offerings to the Dharma protector. The prices are all the same. Wine, tea and milk are all within 5-10 yuan.
◎ The butter pot and the plastic tea bottle are all reusable. Return them wherever they are sold and do not throw them away.
◎ At 2:30 pm every day, you can gild the statue of Talking Tara in Xiami Temple. The gold powder can be purchased directly from the monks in the Buddhist hall on the second floor for 300 yuan/time.
◎ Photography is not allowed in most temples and temples. Please turn off the flash after taking permission from the monks.