Basha Miao Village consists of five villages located in the vast forest at the foot of Moon Mountain, 8 kilometers away from Congjiang County. The most lively village is at the highest point of the mountain. The tourism company has set up a scenic gate about 5 kilometers away from Zhaimen. You must take a shuttle bus from the gate to Zhaimen.

The shuttle bus stopped at a fork in the road. Tourists who got off the bus were guided to the left. Seeing that we had come to stay in large and small bags, we were told to go to the right.

When we walked to the central square of the village, what greeted us was not the owner of the B&B but the strong rustic atmosphere of livestock.

We booked the B&B on Ctrip. We told the B&B owner early about our arrival time, but there was no one at the B&B. The boss goes out to work, and the wife goes out to do shopping.

Following the boss's instructions on the phone, we found a B&B called "Gufengzhai Inn" under a few stone stairs next to the square. The boss asked us to open the door and go in by ourselves. This gate is also the fence of Bamboo Basilica.

It’s another place that’s open all night.

Gufengzhai Inn

 

We left our luggage and walked around the square.

Under the horizontal plaque of "China's Last Gunmen Tribe" is a slogan thanking the working team stationed in the village.
There is a "Congjiang County Targeted Poverty Alleviation Cadres Assistance Contact Information Card" posted next to the door of a household. The card clearly states the reasons for the family's poverty, assistance matters, and preferential policies: the poverty identification year of this family is 2014, and one year After being lifted out of poverty, by 2020 the family's per capita disposable income will be more than 8,000 yuan.
I have seen reports on targeted poverty alleviation on TV, but seeing the detailed data in the cards posted on people’s doors up close makes it more real.

 

 

The family rules engraved on wooden boards are on the wall, and the village rules engraved on stone tablets are on the ground.

The village rules are very interesting. For example, it stipulates that men are not allowed to wear buns, are not required to use shotguns, and are liable for breach of contract if they do not plant a tree when giving birth or passing away. The penalty for breach of contract is "three 66" (66 jins of pork, 66 jins of rice, 66 jins of rice wine)

 

 

 

A group of little girls in costumes walked out of a primary school not far from the village committee. "Are you going to perform?" "No, it's our graduation ceremony," they told us cheerfully. The girls graduated from elementary school.

 

It was almost lunch time and we went to a restaurant where there was an old man with an extraordinary temperament. When he sat with his granddaughter, he had a kind look on his face. When standing with arms akimbo, he looks majestic. He is a well-known man, 78 years old. He served as a soldier in Beijing in the 1950s and later returned to the village to become the village chief secretary. Abdicate now. Now the eldest son is the village chief, and the second son runs the restaurant. The second son said that he once worked in a restaurant in Zhangjiajie. After the epidemic, the restaurant had no business, so he returned to the village.

 

 

He told us about his experience as a soldier and about Basha's gun. Six guns of different lengths were hung on the wall of his house.

 

 

 

He was loading and firing a gun on the hillside like a naughty boy.

 

 

In the afternoon, in order to watch the show, we returned to the place where we got off the ferry in the morning and entered the tourist passage on the left. There is a gate for ticket inspection at the entrance of the passage. The show starts at 3 o'clock. Villagers who were actors came one after another to wait for the performance.

I chatted with this old man. He told me: The tourism company divided the villagers from the five villages in the village into two groups, each group has about 50 people. Each group takes turns performing their living customs one day, and each group earns 4,000 yuan per month. "You still can't get 100 in a month?" I was a little surprised. "I farm, and I don't make money from it. This is mainly to pass on our traditions and have fun by the way." When he heard that I was from Hunan, he immediately said, "Yuan Longping is a good person. The hybrid rice I am growing now can provide enough food for the whole family. He was a good person. It is a pity that he is gone."

 

There is a welcome ceremony at the entrance of the village. After the guests enter the village with a gunshot, a full-time commentator takes the tourists into the village to the performance square, introducing some of Basha culture along the way.

 

Passing through a lush forest.

This is their tree of life. As soon as Basha's child is born, his parents will immediately plant a tree for him. When the person dies, the tree is cut down, the middle section is cut into four pieces, the bark is retained, the body is wrapped in the soil and buried in the soil, and a tree is planted on top.
There are no graves, no tombstones, just trees. This tree symbolizes the continuation of life.
This is also their god. They worship ancient trees. When life is not going well or there are natural or man-made disasters, they go to the big tree at the head of the village to burn incense and pray.
The only tree-cutting operation in Basha was the construction of the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall in 1976. With infinite respect for the chairman, the villagers dedicated a thousand-year-old camphor tree with a diameter of 1.2 meters in the village. The tree was cut down by outsiders, and they built an octagonal memorial pavilion at the tree site.
A tree may look like a piece of wood elsewhere, but not here. This is just like a flying flag is not a piece of cloth, and the Great Wall is not a pile of bricks.

 

 

The tree of life that rolled towards him was the old village chief, and people called him King Miao.

 

 

The performance was held on a small flat land in the village. It included sheng playing, gun dancing, Miao dance, wedding, head shaving with a sickle, etc., and lasted for about half an hour.

The old man who chatted with me at the gate of the village was also among them.

 

Whether they are performing after the show or waiting on the sidelines, the cheerful smiles on their faces tell you that this is how they entertain themselves.

 

Women pay more attention to the flowers embroidered on their own hands.

 

 

 

Shaving one's head with a sickle is probably the only one in the world. One person was shaved on the spot for every performance, two times a day, and there were a total of 2,000 people, men, women, and children in the entire tribe. People couldn't help but ask: How did this happen?

After shaving, the top bun must be left on.

On the one hand, this kind of bun left on the top is called "hugun". Hugun is a bridge for Basha men to connect with their ancestors. Anyone who cuts off his bun will break the connection with his ancestors and will not be able to bear the consequences. Blessed by ancestors.
On the other hand, there is a stipulation in the village rules that if you don't leave your hair in a bun, you will be punished with "three 66" (66 catties of pork, 66 catties of rice, and 66 catties of rice wine).

 

The last shuttle bus leaves at 5:30. As soon as the show ended, tourists hurried to find the shuttle bus. The village was quiet again.

The pure wooden stilted buildings in the Miao Village, with small green tile roofs, are densely scattered on the hillside.
Grandma is 102 years old, and her eyes and hands are not shaking, sewing hundreds of clothes with small rags at the door of the house. The Baijia clothes she sewed were very useful. People believe that the Baijiayi made by a centenarian can protect the baby.

 

I originally planned to follow the villagers who returned home to visit other villages, but as I walked down the mountain along the path, one house after another, one after another, it seemed that there was no end.

 

He turned back and bought the vegetables that had just been picked from the burdens of these two people. Plus a free-range chicken and dinner cooked for us by the hostess of the B&B, it tasted like home.

The lady boss has quite a personality. A tourist came to her and asked her if she had a mahjong table. She said, "We don't accept mahjong players."

 

 

 

In the early morning, I was woken up by the crowing of roosters. After a period of silence, the clear chirping of birds sounded again in the valley. Opening the window, a beautiful picture unfolds: the morning sun is shining, the morning mist is lingering among the rolling mountains, and the mountains are green with pines and cypresses.

The flute solo piece "Morning in Miaoling" came out from the depths of my memory.

We were glad that we stayed in Miaoling for one night and stayed at the Gufengzhai Inn where we could see the view from the windows.

 

 

 

 

 

Basha, the last gunman tribe in China.

Although the gun is held in the hand and hung on the waist, it has lost its hunting function.

 

Basha, a tribe that regards trees as gods.

A tree is born, and a tree dies. As long as the big tree is there, their lives are there.

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